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Philips 42PFL5432D/37 PS 715T2432-3

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    Philips 42PFL5432D/37 PS 715T2432-3

    Tried repairing this set already. Looked at common problems and threads related to these systems. I replaced all Aluminum caps including the high voltage, diodes ZD902 & ZD904, and rectifier D922. The set powered up fine went through menus and all was great. Bought a wall mount for bedroom, mounted and hooked it up and powered it on and got the chirping and no display again.
    First time through i debated replacing D926 because it was only showing around 200 with the meter but did not. It is now showing dead. D922 that i replaced is also showing shorted again along with d927.
    I never paid much attention to the bottom of the board first time around but noticed small diodes on bottom. which meter says one is low and other is shorted. D915&D919. They look to be buggers to replace and have no part number for ordering. Guess it all comes down to should i keep messing with this sucker or is it a lost cause. Has anyone had similar issues with these things. If i do attempt to replace these other parts what are the chances that all the caps are still good. they all look fine.
    Attached Files
    Stupid People are like Slinky's. Not really good for anything but they bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

    #2
    Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 PS 715T2432-3

    i had that problem but mine was a little different just like all tv fixes aren't gonna be the same each time. this is just an idea to me c945 looks like it got hot at 1 time and c921 looks like it is bloated a little unless it is just the pic. my fix was d912 that was making it chirp and after replacement it has been fine for quite some time now that doesn't appear to be the same problem.

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      #3
      Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 PS 715T2432-3

      D915 is for the MOSFET Gate discharge circuit, it is connected in parallel with 100 Ohms resistor, so it will show up as bad on your meter due to the 100 ohms resistor in parallel with the Diode.
      If you can circle those diodes you replaced, it will help me figure what they are for, I having a hard time locating using the pictures.
      Last edited by budm; 03-28-2014, 09:18 AM.
      Never stop learning
      Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

      Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

      Inverter testing using old CFL:
      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

      Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
      http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

      TV Factory reset codes listing:
      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

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        #4
        Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 PS 715T2432-3

        In green are the parts i have replaced. In red is what i am thinking about replacing. Plus at least two of the small diodes on the back of the board.
        Attached Files
        Stupid People are like Slinky's. Not really good for anything but they bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

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          #5
          Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 PS 715T2432-3

          Dont think i would need the Q902 after testing again. Saw someone else had replaced it. Just getting to the point I will try just about anything.
          Stupid People are like Slinky's. Not really good for anything but they bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 PS 715T2432-3

            Well i figured out my problem. Could not figure out how most of the components on the 24V side seemed shorted. Started to remove them and they all tested goo out of circuit. Knew something went fishy. Traced it back to that rectifier. Some dumbass (being me) when replacing the rectifier removed all old thermal paste to replace with new nicer compound. What they forgot to do was put the plastic isolator back between it and the heat sink. Since the back is metal and the heat sink is grounded out it created my short on the whole 24V side. Put plastic back in and set working great on the wall in the bedroom.
            Stupid People are like Slinky's. Not really good for anything but they bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

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