Re: Testing the PDP idea. Will it work?
It's number 4.
VS ON jumper not necessary if TV shows any image.
It's number 4.
VS ON jumper not necessary if TV shows any image.
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Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search. -
Re: Testing the PDP idea. Will it work?
Thank you Tom, I'll let you know. Fingers crossed!Comment
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Re: Testing the PDP idea. Will it work?
Damn. The logic board test failed to light up the whole screen. I still had the black screen in the same place. I checked the ribbon cable between the logic and Ymain boards for continuity and shorts and all was OK. I wish I had a complete schematic!
Also checked the pixels as per Freakaftr8 and they are all the same.
I'm thinking that trying a new logic board is worth the $25 risk. What do you guys think?Comment
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Re: Testing the PDP idea. Will it work?
Due to how the logic board drives the Y-buffer I can't see this working.
The method of driving the panel is by shifting line by line down the screen using a clock and data signal, it does not address each line separately, but instead one after another.
But you said when you did the moved Y-buffer config, you got some more of the panel in the dead areas to light up?Last edited by tom66; 10-24-2013, 05:09 PM.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
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Re: Testing the PDP idea. Will it work?
Yes, I got activity in the dead areas. I don't have the schematics for this TV so maybe someone can tell me if the y-buffer outputs to the PDP ribbon cables are identical, i.e., is each ribbon cable pin-out config the same?Last edited by Skipfinder; 10-24-2013, 11:29 PM.Comment
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Re: Testing the PDP idea. Will it work?
More or less the same.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
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Re: Testing the PDP idea. Will it work?
Just wanted to say thank you for all of your help and knowledge!
I found the problem to be a cracked screen under the surround. It ran vertically along the Y side of the screen. It wasn't noticeable with the surround in place.Comment
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Re: Testing the PDP idea. Will it work?
That was sadly what I had expected. How did the crack happen? Was the TV impacted in any way? Did you buy it like this or find it in a skip...?Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
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Re: Testing the PDP idea. Will it work?
I bought it that way after carefully questioning the original owner. Hard to say whether she lied or the screen glass just failed due to heat cycling and design flaw.Comment
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Re: Testing the PDP idea. Will it work?
Thank you so much for all your help!Comment
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Problem
This is an LG edge LED lit LCD Display. The LEDs are on the bottom edge of the display. There are 2 bars (left and right) Each bar has many LEDs and a 6 pin connector. Each pin drive several LEDs thus is the highest current flow / heat junction. The weak lead free solder gradually fails with thermal expansion/contraction cycling and increases resistance. PSU will compensate up to a point, then when the current is too high, PSU just shut down the backlight causing a dark display. I have even seen one which the connector just fell off as solder points became completely detached.... -
All left and right refers to looking from rear of TV (or looking from front with TV upside down)
- TV came with vertical bars and no image. Found faulty TVS on left buffer board. Also replaced T-Con (may have damaged the original while hot air removing components, board has slight warp) and have full image but few horizontal lines on the screen. Some of the lines appears to be 2 pixel tall while others are 1 pixel tall.
- Disconnecting left and right buffer board potentially reveals problems on both sides with different signals (unless this T-Con require jumper like Samsung FB_TRDY1&3) Fault
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Hello everyone.
Got a catalyst 2960 from the usual scrapyard - ebay.
It is stuck in bootloop and the power supply is missing the 3.3v rail. (+12V, -53V, +3.3V)
Some green moisture crystallization on mainboard, which cleared very well with IPA and visually there is nothing rusted or gone.
Still working on the PSU to get the 3.3v rail back (waiting for parts), but for now I'm using an external buck converter board hooked up to the 12V rail ( by the way, the switch seems to be working with only 12V ).
The switch fails to boot due to the following POST error:... -
I recently got a new shed that it my battery testing work bench beside this it also be electronic work bench as well and general work bench area as well
I want to have a way to monitor more than one computer that is doing battery testing on the fly so I can switch between monitors and be able to see the results in real time
I a chief engineer where I work gave me the information and idea to use a CAT5 repeater which would be the simplest way to do this
They use a different method to transmit the data to tv monitors around the facility but that system requires... -
This is my first attempt at troubleshooting a board like this, I know I could just buy a new board but I'm curious to figure out how this works. I've been testing different components in the evenings this week and I think the problem is with the IC failing to start up for some reason. When the board is plugged in there is no standby voltage.
Then today it randomly sprung to life like a zombie but shortly died thereafter. I have no idea why it would have done that and its the first time I've seen it running. I discharged capacitors on the board last night, then it was sitting today....
Comment