As for resale no, not much for profit but a 50inch tv to fix and have for yourself for under 100 is worth it. Yes they do vary from model to model. As for age guess it depends on the person. I have seen folks on here go the trouble fixing a 2001 pioneer plasma.
Still has a nice image. I think you can pull 150 with remote to the right buyer. As for image i think it will still blow away new cheap model tv, not a 4k one however but hey again not much profit but still better than a dead tv taking space or filling up landfills.
150 max....look on clist.....they have many used plasmas for $100
But would not spend more than $50... On any broken tv
And yes some people dont care and will spend 400$ to fix a 15 yr old outdated old tv when they can buy 2 new tvs for same price.....with warranty lol....anyways....to each is own.....but not me....
I wish things were made to,last and werent so cheap made and cheap priced.....it basically creates a disposable society and i hate it
I like when thigs were worth fixing .......you can thank our pathetic usa gov and the cheap overseas labor for this......one day someone will ask.....what have we done?.....where arevwe going to dispose ofmall this cheap china made plastic junk lol
I wish things were made to,last and werent so cheap made and cheap priced.....it basically creates a disposable society and i hate it
I like when thigs were worth fixing .......you can thank our pathetic usa gov and the cheap overseas labor for this......one day someone will ask.....what have we done?.....where arevwe going to dispose ofmall this cheap china made plastic junk lol
ill try to reflow again....the board is trash so it cant hurt
if you have some liquid flux put some under the ic and also pre heat the board from underneath first if using the hot air method ive had good success and lasting repairs
Most everyone in this thread that had the common cycling on off issue on this model tv replaced c102 to repair.......it didnt work for me
("Main Board Component Repair Kit includes all necessary components to repair common failures on the Main Board. Symptoms include no audio on any input, repeatedly turns on and off, red power LED blinks forever").
If audio had a short it can cause the very symptoms you're experiencing. Turning off and on infinitely led power light infinite blinks as well depends on how the ic failed can cause 3 different symptoms.
A friend had a PN50A510P3FXZA that was not working. A quick look showed that the RTE 801 and 802 (NTC's) were burnt. Closer examination showed cold solder joints on the nearby relay, which left the NTC in circuit all the time, thereby burning them out. I replaced the NTC's and also replaced both relays. I figured I was all set, powered the TV up and it started cycling on and off.
Found this forum, and replaced C102 with a big honking 47uF 30V leaded axial that I happened to have. There is plenty of room under the board for this. No reason to bother buying that little chip cap and soldering it in place.
This solved the problem! Thanks to everyone here who contributed.
I have a theory, that the initial problem was the C102 causing the TV to cycle. My friend probably just left it plugged in and then eventually the cycling is what caused the solder on the relays to degrade, thereby burning up the NTC's.
Really sorry for necro'ing an old thread, but I was wondering --
I need to replace my C102 capacitor, which I don't have an SMD replacement for, but I've seen others use through-hole electrolytic caps instead, so I'm wanting to give that a try. Couple things puzzling me:
I've seen some suggest soldering a replacement capacitor on top of the C102 capacitor -- anyone know why? If the original C102 cap was only halfway "dead" (i.e., not a complete 100% no-circuit-flow dead-end), wouldn't soldering a replacement on top of it create a parallel path that complicates the path of electricity?
Also, I've seen a few who've said they replaced the 47uF C102 with a 100uF or something other than a 47uF -- why can this be done? Is it merely a matter of not having any 47uF's on hand and using something else on-hand instead, or is there some sort of electrical compensation to counteract a replacement cap being stacked on top?
I know it's okay to use higher voltage-rated replacement capacitors, but I was under the impression that the capacitance had to be the same for a replacement capacitor.
I just want to say thanks to everybody in this thread, who reported on the C102 cap fix. This worked perfectly for my power-cycling, screeching PN50A550 plasma TV!
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