Hisense HSL5529HDI autopsy

[Heihachi_73]

After around four years, my Hisense HSL5529HDI LCD TV I was using as a computer monitor gave up the ghost yesterday. The reason? A row of Samxon GDs failed in the PSU, also taking out a "TLC" brand cap on the main board. This same TV lost its RF connector early in its life (2009) due to our cat tripping over the aerial cord and ripping it straight off the board, still connected to the cable. Ironically, the same cat also did this to our CRT TV in 2005 (a 51cm Dick Smith/"DSE" relabel).

Also of note, while the panel was 1680x1050, if you plugged a 1680x1050 VGA signal into it, it would truncate this to 1400x1050, stretching the result to 1680x1050. Yet, if you used a highly unusual 1440x1050 mode, you would get 1:1 pixels if you changed the TV's display mode to 4:3 (also, the 'wide' setting was called 16:9 according to the OSD itself). I never tried DVI with this PC (note that the TV would then require a DVI-HDMI adapter).

Capacitor specs/locations:

PSU board, JSI-220402/ROHS (that four-letter-word again)

C1: Samxon ZS 220uF 25V 105°C
C3: Samxon GD 470uF 25V 105°C
C11F: Samxon KM ???uF 420V 105°C (obscured by inductor)
C12F: Samxon KM 10uF ??V 105°C (obscured by mains filter cap)
C15F: Samxon GD 470uF 25V 105°C (bulged)
C16F: Samxon GD 470uF 25V 105°C (bulged)
C17F: Samxon GD 470uF 25V 105°C (bulged)
C18F: Samxon GD 470uF 25V 105°C
C22F: Samxon KM 1uF 50V 105°C
C29F: Samxon KM 47uF 25V 105°C

Main board, "Aoh" E303981, RSAG7.820.1536/ROH VER.D

CA2: Sancon CD110 470uF 16V 85°C
CA8: TF CD110 220uF 16V 85°C
CA9: Sancon CD110 470uF 16V 85°C
CA10: Sancon CD110 470uF 16V 85°C
CA36: TF CD110 220uF 16V 85°C
CA38: TF CD110 220uF 16V 85°C
CA46: Sancon CD110 470uF 16V 85°C
CA81: Sancon CD110 470uF 16V 85°C
CA83: Sancon CD110 470uF 16V 85°C
CA84: Sancon CD110 470uF 16V 85°C
CA86: Sancon CD110 470uF 16V 85°C
C691: TLC CD110X 680uF 16V 85°C (bulged)
C704: Sancon CD110 470uF 16V 85°C
C808: TLC CD110X 220uF 25V 85°C

Surface-mount poly caps are not mentioned (all are labeled 8i 100 16V).

[mariushm]

Re: Hisense HSL5529HDI autopsy

Replace the capacitors on the lower right corner of the power supply, all of them, even if they're not bulged. Same with the two above the transformer
The big 420v capacitor shouldn't need replacement.

Farnell should be cheap for you in regards to shipping (it's "branded" as element14 in that area of the world, it's newark.com in US, same company though): http://au.element14.com/

If not, there should be rs-components.com : http://australia.rs-online.com/web/?..._-MainWorldMap

Get Panasonic FM or FR series , United Chemi Con KZE, KY, Nichicon HM, HN etc, get the same capacity value and voltage, or get the ones with slightly higher voltage ( 470uF 35v will work just fine if there aren't 470uF 25v in stock or at reasonable price)

For the 1uF capacitor and 47uF that are probably in the corner, you're probably not going to find Panasonic FM or FR. In which case, you can go for Panasonic FC , Nichicon PW etc

On the other board, replace the swollen capacitor and if there is one above it, get one capacitor as replacement for that one, but don't change it unless the monitor still doesn't work after fixing the power supply and that single bulged capacitor.

If you can, get 3 100uF 16v capacitors, just in case the three surface mounted capacitors need to be replaced

470/25:

http://au.element14.com/panasonic/ee...-20/dp/2282451
http://au.element14.com/united-chemi...25v/dp/1691148
http://au.element14.com/united-chemi...-20/dp/1690872
http://au.element14.com/united-chemi...-20/dp/1691159

47uF / 25v

http://au.element14.com/united-chemi...-20/dp/1691147
http://au.element14.com/panasonic/ee...7uf/dp/1848438
http://au.element14.com/nichicon/uvz...-20/dp/1822681
http://au.element14.com/nichicon/uvz...-20/dp/1822715

1uF 50v

http://au.element14.com/nichicon/upw...-20/dp/1818634
http://au.element14.com/nichicon/uvz...-20/dp/1822684
http://au.element14.com/panasonic/ee...can/dp/1848455

680uF 16v

http://au.element14.com/united-chemi...-20/dp/1690870
http://au.element14.com/panasonic/ee...0uf/dp/1800635
http://au.element14.com/panasonic/ee...0uf/dp/1800636
http://au.element14.com/nichicon/uhm...-20/dp/1900054
http://au.element14.com/united-chemi...16v/dp/1691139

[Heihachi_73]

Re: Hisense HSL5529HDI autopsy

Update: The beast lives!

I had to replace the 680uF cap on the main board with a 1000uF 25V Nichicon VR however, as I didn't have anything between 470uF and 1000uF. The failed cap was the one directly above the 6-pin connector to the left. The three failed Samxons in the PSU were replaced with a few "JH" caps pilfered from a smashed CRT TV, just to see if the TV still worked. If it lasts more than a week I'm happy.

The TV is getting native resolution at 1400x1050 now via the VGA cable, not 1440x1050 (still no widescreen PC support - the TV itself truncates the display to 1400x1050, and IDs it as that). Luckily it has a 4:3/"16:9" toggle (despite being a 16:10 panel, it says 16:9 on the OSD), so I can at least get 1:1 pixels.

[Heihachi_73]

Re: Hisense HSL5529HDI autopsy

And it's dead again. The remaining two Samxon GDs at C3 and C18F were bloated at 5.8Ω and 13Ω respectively. Ironically the JH caps I pilfered from the old TV which was from 2001, and the Rubycon on the mainboard, are still fine.

Unfortunately those Samxons may have killed the TV for real this time, there is now a light brown burn mark on the PCB right where the solder direction arrow is pointing, and it looks like Q10 (which is a D417 mosfet) on the underside desoldered itself, lifted itself slightly from the board, soldered itself back down and probably burnt out in the process (unless this has been like that since it left the factory, as I never took a photo of the underside back in 2013); the board and trace immediately under it has also bulged up. Either way, something got a bit hot around there.

[Heihachi_73]

Re: Hisense HSL5529HDI autopsy

I replaced the caps and yes, the mosfet is toast, and I don't have another one of its type either.

With power applied, the blue power LED lights up instead of the red standby LED, the speakers make a light pop (which it always did when it was turned on) and it power cycles (LED flashes) after a few seconds. TV does not turn on nor does the backlight operate.

ICs and mosfets underneath power supply PCB:
U1: 870913K G4 TL494C (Texas Instruments TL494C)
U2F: LD7575PS DG2317
Q10: D417 BA751G (yes, its a G not a C, in comparison to the one on Google Images/Aliexpress)
Q11: D484 BA8A23
Q12: D417 BA751G
Q13: D484 BA8A23

[Cosmo88]

Re: Hisense HSL5529HDI autopsy

Thanks for the information! I have actually tried digikey.com but my measurement puts my cap's diameter at ~17mm and I can't find anything underneath 20mm and the space around that capacitor is quite crowded if you know what I mean. I'm not saying it won't work. A 20mm cap might fit but its a tight space is all I'm saying.

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