I have a LG flatscreen tv model 20ls7d-ub. It's got 2 bad caps. one of the caps that's bad is a Samxon 680uf 25v 105°C8 V1A. What does the V1A mean?? What can I cross it out with? The other bad cap is the same value but GF(M)? Thanks in advance!
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Re: bad power supply cap ?
Welcome, OrderOfSolve!
Samxon GF series have been known to go bad after some use; so I recommend replacing all of the Samxon GF Series units with Chemi-Con KY Series.
The V1A appears to be a date code.My first choice in quality Japanese electrolytics is Nippon Chemi-Con, which has been in business since 1931... the quality of electronics is dependent on the quality of the electrolytics. -
Re: bad power supply cap ?
^
Or Nichicon HE, or Rubycon YXG. All have the same specs as Chemi-con KY.I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!
No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards
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Re: bad power supply cap ?
Just ordered several Chemi-con caps from Mouser.com. Thanks for your help! I'll get back with the results! Thanks again!Comment
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Vizio e601i-A3 - Has Sound and Display, But No Backlight - Bad Power Supply Board or Bad LED Bulbs ?I was given this TV from my great uncle. He said it just wouldn't turn on one day out of nowhere, replaced the TV, and gave it to me to possibly fix and use for myself.
Upon bringing it home and plugging it up, it showed a standby light.
I powered it on and without a flashlight, the display showed the "V" but the lighting is very dim, but visible.
The screen seems to blackout and stay black, but with a flashlight I can see the display.
With my Playstation 4 connected via HDMI, and running a game I can hear sound.
Assuming... -
I have wanting to do this project for quite sometime now and I finally found a switching power supply that will work on this desoldering gun station ZD-915 that the original switching power supply took a shit and just was not worth trying to fix it because this switching power is not quite big enough to handle the heater element and the vacuum pump
One note when I tested the switching power supply and the voltage control board I noticed that this desoldering gun heat up much faster than the original switching power supply which I was really surprised by to the point that I might buy... -
I have been working on this concept for quite some time now with limited success but recently I found a switching power supply that is setup for the voltage that this soldering station needs to operate at however it also needs part of the secondary circuit from the original switching power because you need several voltage rails
I once tried to get a ZD-915 desoldering station to work on a 18 volt battery power supply but unfortunately things did not go well but I did find a work around but I might try this idea again but going at a little differently more about this another time... -
The sub developed a constant popping every couple seconds from woofer and power LED flickering with nothing but wall AC connected. Connecting an audio cable didn't change anything. It doesn't play but a second or two of audio in between the pops.
Opened it up and discovered the power supply is making a faint clicking or ticking sound.
I measured the amp's output to the woofer and it pulses up to 50mv DC to be driver. The pulses coincide with the power supply ticking/clicking.
I measured the power supply output going to the amp board and it too has this pulsing. Voltage cycles... -
Hello Everybody,
Trying to repair a power supply from a Russound CA4 Multizone Controller (picture attached)
Russound no longer supports it but were kind enough to provide a schematic of the power supply (pdf attached).
The outputs marked 12v and 20v are all measuring only 1v.
The board is clicking, which I think means it is in something called hiccup mode when the flyback transformers switches because of an internal problem or something else on the board Overloading it.
The capacitors physically look clean (no bludgesor leaks) and...
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