Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

[adamp]

Alright, so this seems to be an extremely common problem, and after some extensive searching on this topic, I've landed here with a couple different conclusions.

1. The A board is shot
2. The SC board is shot
3. The SS board is shot
4. The P board is shot

(possibly all 4)

I've looked through the online tech guide, but the problem I have is that the section for troubleshooting 10 blinks is pretty vague. The procedures for board isolation are pretty clear, but they don't really seem to tell you how you can determine which board is defective for a ten blink code. This thing seems to have been written prior to the TC-P42S1 release in 2009.

I think I can follow the diagram well enough to determine what to disconnect in order to isolate boards, but like, this thing just tells me how to isolate boards.. but not what to do after that.

One of the fans sounds a little wonky when I try to power it up too, so that's probably getting replaced. If anyone can help me out I would really appreciate it.. Praying for a bad SS board.. 60 bucks sounds better than a new TV.

Thanks.

[tom66]

Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

Isolation - if you disconnect a board (SS or SC), power up the TV, and you do not get 10 blinks then the board you disconnected is bad.

P board can be tested with DMM.

A board is more difficult but it is the one left over so if the others test good, it is probably the A board.

[adamp]

Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

Thanks for the reply. I have absolutely zero experience with troubleshooting HDTVs, so I'm afraid I'm not familiar with any associated acronyms.

I think I understand how to test the voltage output on the P-Board, and sorry to sound like a noob, but I don't know what DMM means. :P

So basically if I disconnect a board and I still get the 10 blinks, then the board I isolated is OK? then I just kinda continue isolating boards until I get a code that's different than 10 blinks, but I should isolate all of them to see if more than one isolation yields a code that's different than 10 blinks? Then each board isolation that has this result means that board is bad?

Is that correct?

Do I test voltage outputs separately or while I'm doing the isolation steps?

[tom66]

Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

I think I understand how to test the voltage output on the P-Board, and sorry to sound like a noob, but I don't know what DMM means. :P

DMM = digital multi-meter.

So basically if I disconnect a board and I still get the 10 blinks, then the board I isolated is OK? then I just kinda continue isolating boards until I get a code that's different than 10 blinks, but I should isolate all of them to see if more than one isolation yields a code that's different than 10 blinks? Then each board isolation that has this result means that board is bad?

You will only need to isolate the SS and SC boards for now. You should get a green LED, no blinks, if the isolation has shown one of the boards as failed.

SS board is on the left from the rear; SC on the right.

Do I test voltage outputs separately or while I'm doing the isolation steps?

You need to test the voltage with and without each board connected; of interest is primarily the Vs voltage.

[adamp]

Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

Awesome. Thanks so much for your help. The tech guide shows the checkpoints for checking the voltage pretty clearly, so that shouldn't be a problem.

Seems pretty straight forward actually.. Not all that different from troubleshooting PC hardware.

I think I'm good to go now with one exception. I guess I don't really understand why the voltage output would matter if a board is disconnected. Wouldn't I just want to make sure that power is being distributed appropriately while it's connected?

Again, thank you so much, and sorry for being a complete newb.

[tom66]

Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

I think I'm good to go now with one exception. I guess I don't really understand why the voltage output would matter if a board is disconnected. Wouldn't I just want to make sure that power is being distributed appropriately while it's connected?

The sustain boards can short circuit which will cause the power supply to shut down. If the voltage measures low with a board connected, that board is the fault.

Again, thank you so much, and sorry for being a complete newb.

I was a complete noob to TV repair when I started about 15 months ago, but I've since repaired 34...

[adamp]

Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

Ok. So if the voltage is low with the board connected, but normal with it disconnected, then that board is bad. If there is low or no voltage reading with it disconnected OR connected, then the P board is bad since it's not supplying power at all.

Is this right?

This is my plan of action. Is this going to work or is there something I should do differently?

First, check the P board with a DMM and record the voltage outputs.
Isolate the SS board, check the voltage output, power on and check for green LED
Isolate the SC board, check the voltage, turn on and check for green LED
If the voltage is OK and I'm getting 10 blinks still, replace the A board.
If the voltage is low with one of the boards connected, replace that board (isolating it should give a green LED)
If the voltage is always low or non existent with both boards disconnected and connected, replace P Board.

[tom66]

Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

Sounds good - although low output could be caused by A board not turning on the outputs. But that can be tested later if it isn't the SS or SC.

Note with SS disconnected and SC connected you will still get a picture but it will be dim and blurry.

[adamp]

Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

great.

I'll hopefully have an update when I'm able to get home from work and test things out. Ill post what I find.

Also, I suppose this would be good to know... What's a normal voltage output level? lol.

[tom66]

Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

great.

I'll hopefully have an update when I'm able to get home from work and test things out. Ill post what I find.

Also, I suppose this would be good to know... What's a normal voltage output level? lol.

For Panasonic, about 205V.

[adamp]

Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

ok. thanks.

But the tech guide only shows checkpoints for checking the p-board... connector P6 is where it says to check.

Is that where I check each time with the boards isolated as well?

[tom66]

Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

ok. thanks.

But the tech guide only shows checkpoints for checking the p-board... connector P6 is where it says to check.

Is that where I check each time with the boards isolated as well?

Yes

[adamp]

Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

alright thanks alot.

suppose the first thing I should do is check the fuses and see if any caps are bulging before I do any of this.. no?

If so, I have no idea where fuses are on TVs or what they look like. didn't see anything in the tech guide but I'll check again.

I've read that FETs short out commonly. I was like, "great. I'm reading this everywhere, but what is that?"

lol.. I think I might be screwed.

[tom66]

Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

alright thanks alot.

suppose the first thing I should do is check the fuses and see if any caps are bulging before I do any of this.. no?

Panasonic plasmas do not use fuses as far as I am aware. They also use excellent quality Rubycon and Nichicon capacitors - some of the best capacitors - which very rarely fail. Unlike Samsung and LG...

I've read that FETs short out commonly. I was like, "great. I'm reading this everywhere, but what is that?"

If you find a sustain board to be faulty then faulty shorted FETs can be located; until then it's not worth testing them.

[adamp]

Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

ok, so im sitting here with the back off and a DMM, that I have no idea how to use. lol...

I found the P6 connector, but when I take the connection apart and put a probe on the pins, I get absolutely no reading at all.

Can I just stop now and basically say bad P board? Or continue isolating and see if I get a reading? Or am I using the DMM wrong? lol.. basically I just set it to voltage, touched the probe to the pin.

I AM supposed to do this without the AC line plugged in... right?

[adamp]

Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

Got the SS board isolated... 10 blinks.

Got the SC board isolated... 6 blinks.

A board, SC board, maybe P board?

[tom66]

Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

possibly SS.

Set DMM to 600V or 1000V DC, probe on the pins of P6.

[adamp]

Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

That's what I did.

I don't think I'm using the DMM right though. Everything I'm reading bouthow to use it says I should have the black probe and the red probe touching something. If I'm only putting a probe on one thing, where do I put the other one? There's nothing anywhere that actually xplains how to do this for TVs.... just a bunch of things that tell you to do it.

[tom66]

Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

Black probe on metal frame (ground.) Red probe on blue or brown wires going to SS or SC.

[adamp]

Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

ok, well...

No reading at all from any pins on the P6 connector.