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adamp
Member
Last Activity: 09-04-2012, 12:43 PM
Joined: 08-16-2012
Location: St Paul, MN
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  • Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

    Got the diagnosis. They want $250 to fix it.

    Bad SC board. It's too bad I can't find anywhere that actually has these in stock... since I know for sure they don't cost $250.
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  • Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

    Well, my problem isn't that there's ten blinks before I even turn it on, so this check doesn't really apply to my situation I don't think. Not to mention the TC-P42S1 isn't among theeffected model numbers.

    I found a place that will diagnose it for me for 50 bucks, so I'm just going to pay them to do it before I accidentally ruin something.

    Thanks for the help Tom. I may not have gotten it fixed myself but I sure learned some stuff. Praying for the SS board diagnosis... Although they'll probably just test...
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  • Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

    nothing with them in, nothing with them disconnected.
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  • Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

    Yup.

    No matter what I do, I can't get any reading from any pin on the P6 connector.

    I wasn't really eexpecting this, but what I'm reading makes it sound like this is a tell tale sign of a failed P-Board. Kinda sucks that it sounds like it's going to cost me like $150 just to have a tech confirm this for me.. I wouldn't mind ordering a part and putting it in this week if I could find some sort of confirmation...
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  • Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

    ok, well...

    No reading at all from any pins on the P6 connector.
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  • Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

    That's what I did.

    I don't think I'm using the DMM right though. Everything I'm reading bouthow to use it says I should have the black probe and the red probe touching something. If I'm only putting a probe on one thing, where do I put the other one? There's nothing anywhere that actually xplains how to do this for TVs.... just a bunch of things that tell you to do it.
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  • Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

    Got the SS board isolated... 10 blinks.

    Got the SC board isolated... 6 blinks.

    A board, SC board, maybe P board?
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    Last edited by adamp; 08-16-2012, 06:36 PM.

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  • Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

    ok, so im sitting here with the back off and a DMM, that I have no idea how to use. lol...

    I found the P6 connector, but when I take the connection apart and put a probe on the pins, I get absolutely no reading at all.

    Can I just stop now and basically say bad P board? Or continue isolating and see if I get a reading? Or am I using the DMM wrong? lol.. basically I just set it to voltage, touched the probe to the pin.

    I AM supposed to do this without the AC line plugged in... right?
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  • Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

    alright thanks alot.

    suppose the first thing I should do is check the fuses and see if any caps are bulging before I do any of this.. no?

    If so, I have no idea where fuses are on TVs or what they look like. didn't see anything in the tech guide but I'll check again.

    I've read that FETs short out commonly. I was like, "great. I'm reading this everywhere, but what is that?"

    lol.. I think I might be screwed.
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  • Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

    ok. thanks.

    But the tech guide only shows checkpoints for checking the p-board... connector P6 is where it says to check.

    Is that where I check each time with the boards isolated as well?
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  • Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

    great.

    I'll hopefully have an update when I'm able to get home from work and test things out. Ill post what I find.

    Also, I suppose this would be good to know... What's a normal voltage output level? lol.
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  • Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

    Ok. So if the voltage is low with the board connected, but normal with it disconnected, then that board is bad. If there is low or no voltage reading with it disconnected OR connected, then the P board is bad since it's not supplying power at all.

    Is this right?

    This is my plan of action. Is this going to work or is there something I should do differently?

    First, check the P board with a DMM and record the voltage outputs.
    Isolate the SS board, check the voltage output, power on and...
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    Last edited by adamp; 08-16-2012, 09:29 AM.

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  • Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

    Awesome. Thanks so much for your help. The tech guide shows the checkpoints for checking the voltage pretty clearly, so that shouldn't be a problem.

    Seems pretty straight forward actually.. Not all that different from troubleshooting PC hardware.

    I think I'm good to go now with one exception. I guess I don't really understand why the voltage output would matter if a board is disconnected. Wouldn't I just want to make sure that power is being distributed appropriately while it's connected?

    ...
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  • Re: Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

    Thanks for the reply. I have absolutely zero experience with troubleshooting HDTVs, so I'm afraid I'm not familiar with any associated acronyms.

    I think I understand how to test the voltage output on the P-Board, and sorry to sound like a noob, but I don't know what DMM means. :P

    So basically if I disconnect a board and I still get the 10 blinks, then the board I isolated is OK? then I just kinda continue isolating boards until I get a code that's different than 10 blinks, but I should isolate all of...
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  • Panny TC-P42S1 10 blinks (yes, another one)

    Alright, so this seems to be an extremely common problem, and after some extensive searching on this topic, I've landed here with a couple different conclusions.

    1. The A board is shot
    2. The SC board is shot
    3. The SS board is shot
    4. The P board is shot

    (possibly all 4)

    I've looked through the online tech guide, but the problem I have is that the section for troubleshooting 10 blinks is pretty vague. The procedures for board isolation are pretty clear, but they don't really seem to tell you how you can determine which board is...
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