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Sylvania LC320SLX No Power-Dead

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  • kevinm34232
    replied
    Re: Sylvania LC320SLX No Power-Dead

    OK so here's what happens, with my meter on 200k I put black probe to pin 15 of T601 and red probe to band side of D638 and the readings on the meter just keep going up until hits 200 then 0L.

    FYI I have 3.3v on pin2 of IC631.

    As for Q602 I have 2.0v on collector pin 2, 0.2v on emitter pin 1.
    Last edited by kevinm34232; 07-22-2012, 04:51 PM.

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  • RON_CET
    replied
    Re: Sylvania LC320SLX No Power-Dead

    you can check Q602 for b-e short or e-c short also voltage from Q602 with using pin8 of T601 for ground as for t601 possible issue thats very low possibility now back over on secondary side @D638 source for al33v being thats low @7volt with set unplugged make sure you have no low resistance short from cathode which is band side of diode to pin 15 of T601

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  • kevinm34232
    replied
    Re: Sylvania LC320SLX No Power-Dead

    OK should I check Q602 and T601 first and how?

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  • RON_CET
    replied
    Re: Sylvania LC320SLX No Power-Dead

    no i don't think the C605 cap is keeping set from coming on,remember now since your on the secondary side of T601 for measurement make sure your using ground from secondary side like i post early i think it's pin 15
    Last edited by RON_CET; 07-22-2012, 10:05 AM.

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  • RON_CET
    replied
    Re: Sylvania LC320SLX No Power-Dead

    yes your al33v should be al33 if your getting 7volts thats to low and will not work your al33 volts comes from diode D638 also your al3.3 comes from IC631 pin 2

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  • kevinm34232
    replied
    Re: Sylvania LC320SLX No Power-Dead

    OK so I will replace C605 (do you think this would be the cause of the TV not coming on, i.e. replace before continuing?)

    And according to SM, that leaves Q601, Q602, and T601 to check?
    Attached Files

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  • kevinm34232
    replied
    Re: Sylvania LC320SLX No Power-Dead

    I have a Peak Atlas cap meter that I used to test it. That A33 voltage we were talking about I have 7.7v now, is that supposed to be 33v or 3.3v? Right on Q601 but I think I had 0v when the fuse blew so I'm not sure if I had voltage there before that.

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  • RON_CET
    replied
    Re: Sylvania LC320SLX No Power-Dead

    did you use the same dvm you measure voltage with to measure the Capacitor? again how accurate is it? The 470uf most likely is rated @ +/-10% so if your reading 414uf i would replace the cap,the voltages on Q601 should be suffient to startup set if nothing else bad.I think you said in a prior post that Q601 gate had 0.00 volts due to a open R614 you replaced and now you have 2volts

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  • kevinm34232
    replied
    Re: Sylvania LC320SLX No Power-Dead

    I know this is first thing to check but I removed main filter cap which is a 470uF200wv, it measures 414uF, ESR 0.07. Is it bad?
    I've checked all resistors and diodes on the "hot" side of the board now all seem good.

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  • kevinm34232
    replied
    Re: Sylvania LC320SLX No Power-Dead

    Originally posted by RON_CET View Post
    if no diodes are shorted ,then using pin 8 of T601 as ground read dc voltage @ Drain of Q601 should have 134 vols DC when set plug in if you do have the 134 v there then check for 5.3v on gate of Q601 those two voltages must be present to kick start Q601 into oscillation to get the power supply running
    I have not tested all the diodes yet but I replaced the one bad resistor and at Q601 I have 163v at drain and 2.0v at gate. Does that give any indication?

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  • kevinm34232
    replied
    Re: Sylvania LC320SLX No Power-Dead

    Ok going to replace the bad resistor and see what happens well let you know what happens..

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  • selldoor
    replied
    Re: Sylvania LC320SLX No Power-Dead

    Originally posted by selldoor View Post
    No - nothing wrong -..........
    120 VAC rectified is 120* 1.41 = 160.2 VDC WRONG

    Your mains is likely less than 120 VAC so 165VDC is acceptable.
    Probably confused you even more - sorry

    Should be 120*1.41 = 169.2VDC

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  • RON_CET
    replied
    Re: Sylvania LC320SLX No Power-Dead

    what your seeing @ that measurement @ this time of 165 volts DC is complete source voltage derived from your bridge rectifier network,once Q601 and its associated circuit start its operations you should see that 165 volt reduce down close to the 135 volt

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  • selldoor
    replied
    Re: Sylvania LC320SLX No Power-Dead

    Originally posted by kevinm34232 View Post
    You said I should be getting 135v is something wrong if Im getting around 165v which is what Im getting off of large cap?

    No - nothing wrong -I think the earlier 135 may have been either a mis type or got the multiplier wrong and used 1.14.

    120 VAC rectified is 120* 1.41 = 160.2 VDC

    Your mains is likely less than 120 VAC so 165VDC is acceptable.

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  • kevinm34232
    replied
    Re: Sylvania LC320SLX No Power-Dead

    You said I should be getting 135v is something wrong if Im getting around 165v which is what Im getting off of large cap?

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  • kevinm34232
    replied
    Re: Sylvania LC320SLX No Power-Dead

    You're right Bud but not my meter, the main fuse FH601 is blown, must have happened with the spark...

    At Pin 3 of T601 get 166v
    Last edited by kevinm34232; 07-18-2012, 09:16 PM.

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  • budm
    replied
    Re: Sylvania LC320SLX No Power-Dead

    I have feeling his meter is not working right.

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  • RON_CET
    replied
    Re: Sylvania LC320SLX No Power-Dead

    agreed budm cuase that voltage should be around 135 volts DC

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  • budm
    replied
    Re: Sylvania LC320SLX No Power-Dead

    You know, pin 3 of that T601 was reading 2.9V as indicated in post 24, that power supply section is an always on, so if you got the shock from that large cap, then that reading of 2.9V cannot be right.
    Attached Files

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  • kevinm34232
    replied
    Re: Sylvania LC320SLX No Power-Dead

    Well now Im not sure how accurate it is, it's an Ideal Digital Multimeter, model ND 3267-1.
    I'm definetely not getting a reading on that resistor but the other ones were very close so I don't know.

    Maybe it is my meter the lower resistance ones seem to be the problem Ill have to try to change batteries first. In any case that one R604 is the only one that looks open so I will try replacing that and report back. Thanks!
    Last edited by kevinm34232; 07-18-2012, 08:43 PM.

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