Philips BDL3231

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • medbor
    New Member
    • Aug 2006
    • 5

    #1

    Philips BDL3231

    I recently got a trashed LCD panel from work and it was broken (surprise!)
    It does turn on, then it chirps and turns off, restarts again and so on (about once per second).
    So i took it apart expecting bad caps, and this is what i found:
    1. 1200uF 35V 105C CapXon x2
    2. 2200uF 16V 105C CapXon x1
    3. 680uF 35V 105C Capxon x2
    that was obviously bulging and broken.
    I have "replaced" them with some scrap i found, but it still chirps and won't stay on for more than half a second. With "replaced" i mean:
    1. 1000uF 35V 85C Nichicon + 220uF 35V 85C Nichicon x2
    2. 2200uF 35V 85C Nichicon x1
    3. 680uF 35V 105C Elna x2
    The Nichicons i found in a trashed Sony CRT TV (so they might be old), but the Elna Caps where unused.

    It is very hard to photograph this perticular tv, the main power supply is decent to reach, but the lcd power board is located under the motherboard and i just don't have it in me to take it apart again right now.

    Is there anything simple i might have overlooked or should i just take it apart once more?
    The power led seems constant, and also the display driver, so it might be the cffl perhaps (or its power)?
  • retiredcaps
    Badcaps Legend
    • Apr 2010
    • 9271

    #2
    Re: Philips BDL3231

    Originally posted by medbor
    Is there anything simple i might have overlooked or should i just take it apart once more?
    1) Reusing old caps is a bad idea. Unless you measure the capacitance and ESR, you have no idea if the replacement caps are working.

    2) Using 85C caps is also a bad idea when the originals were 105C.

    3) Capxon makes terrible quality caps. We generally recommend replace on sight regardless if they are bloated or not.

    4) Smaller caps usually never bloat when they go bad and play an important part of the SMPS startup process. This could be your chirping sound every second.

    5) The power LED being on probably means that 5V standby is present. Now the main board is instructing the power supply to start.

    --- standard answer, regulars may skip this part ---

    https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...84&postcount=3
    Last edited by retiredcaps; 01-08-2012, 01:37 AM.
    --- begin sig file ---

    If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post.

    We respectfully ask that you make some time and effort to read some of the guides available for basic troubleshooting. After you have read through them, then ask clarification questions or report your findings.

    Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.

    --- end sig file ---

    Comment

    • medbor
      New Member
      • Aug 2006
      • 5

      #3
      Re: Philips BDL3231

      I realise that reusing caps is not at all recommended, but i don't like spending money if i don't know it it will help. Should i replace all caps everywhere i go by your approach?
      Also i don't think digikey distibutes to sweden, i have elfa.se though, they seem to have a lot of caps.

      Some pictures after my initial atempts.
      Do you need pictures of the main board aswell?
      Attached Files

      Comment

      • medbor
        New Member
        • Aug 2006
        • 5

        #4
        Re: Philips BDL3231

        found two badly burned diodes on the primary side, is this a bad or common thing?
        Attached Files

        Comment

        • tom66
          EVs Rule
          • Apr 2011
          • 32560
          • UK

          #5
          Re: Philips BDL3231

          Those are the clamp diodes for the SMPS. They get hot, so it's not entirely a surprise they show up as burnt. It would probably blow the fuse if they went short circuit, but there's the possibility the power supply is current limiting on the primary side because of this - I've ran this through my head a few times and it seems plausible.

          To test:
          - unplug TV from mains
          - leave for 5 minutes for bulk caps to discharge (HIGH VOLTAGE!)
          - use the diode test mode on your meter (looks like -|<-)
          - note the reading when the probes aren't touching anything ("OL" or "1") - this is the open circuit reading
          - place red lead on one end (doesn't matter which), black on other, note reading
          - reverse leads, note reading
          - test the other, although we expect the same reading as they are most likely in parallel

          We are expecting around 500 one way, and open circuit the other way.
          Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
          For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.

          Comment

          • retiredcaps
            Badcaps Legend
            • Apr 2010
            • 9271

            #6
            Re: Philips BDL3231

            Originally posted by medbor
            Should i replace all caps everywhere i go by your approach?
            It is up to you. If you are not going to replace caps, then start doing your voltage measurements.
            --- begin sig file ---

            If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post.

            We respectfully ask that you make some time and effort to read some of the guides available for basic troubleshooting. After you have read through them, then ask clarification questions or report your findings.

            Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.

            --- end sig file ---

            Comment

            • Mr Bill
              Badcaps Veteran
              • Nov 2011
              • 648
              • USA

              #7
              Re: Philips BDL3231

              Those 2 diodes that are burned was causing my cousins 37" Philips to chirp after we replaced the bad caps. The one actually had a small pin hole in it and was emitting a small puff of smoke.

              Comment

              • medbor
                New Member
                • Aug 2006
                • 5

                #8
                Re: Philips BDL3231

                Originally posted by Mr Bill
                Those 2 diodes that are burned was causing my cousins 37" Philips to chirp after we replaced the bad caps. The one actually had a small pin hole in it and was emitting a small puff of smoke.
                What happened next? everything ok?

                The diodes in question are actually connected in series, but are they broken?

                If i did recap the whole PSU and Inverterboard, what are my chances that the tv will function fine? until i saw the diodes i thought it would work with just the caps, but now i wonder what more could have gone bad...

                i have the schematic if you are interested... page 17



                The inverter board is not in there, but there is no visible damage at all except for the popped caps from the pictures above (purple ones). And as you probably have seen already the caps i replaced these with where Jamicon not Elma as i previously wrote.

                Comment

                • medbor
                  New Member
                  • Aug 2006
                  • 5

                  #9
                  Re: Philips BDL3231

                  Originally posted by retiredcaps
                  It is up to you. If you are not going to replace caps, then start doing your voltage measurements.
                  Of course i'm going to replace caps, i just hoped my original efforts was enough.
                  Do you mean replacing all the small caps on the main baord too or just in the psu+inverterboard? There are about 50 caps on the main board...

                  Comment

                  • retiredcaps
                    Badcaps Legend
                    • Apr 2010
                    • 9271

                    #10
                    Re: Philips BDL3231

                    Originally posted by medbor
                    Of course i'm going to replace caps, i just hoped my original efforts was enough.
                    Do you mean replacing all the small caps on the main baord too or just in the psu+inverterboard? There are about 50 caps on the main board...
                    Normally, just the power board for most situations as they undergo the most stress. Some TV manufacturers do have problems with caps on the inverter board as well. Obviously, there is NO guarantee that replacing the caps with new low ESR will work.

                    Since you found a schematic, you should take some voltage readings to see where the problem is.

                    I would check

                    a) for stable 5V standby power
                    b) for steady power at main board (probably 5V)
                    c) IC904 pin 1 (VCC)
                    --- begin sig file ---

                    If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post.

                    We respectfully ask that you make some time and effort to read some of the guides available for basic troubleshooting. After you have read through them, then ask clarification questions or report your findings.

                    Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.

                    --- end sig file ---

                    Comment

                    • Mr Bill
                      Badcaps Veteran
                      • Nov 2011
                      • 648
                      • USA

                      #11
                      Re: Philips BDL3231

                      Originally posted by medbor
                      What happened next? everything ok?

                      The diodes in question are actually connected in series, but are they broken?
                      You'd have to determine if they're broken with your multimeter. In my case we went to radio shack and bought a general purpose diode (2 pack), soldered them in and the tv fired to life. Then we ordered the correct diodes from digikey and the tv has been working solid for a couple months now.

                      Comment

                      Related Topics

                      Collapse

                      • withalligators
                        Looking for best replacements for Capxons, but can't find data sheets
                        by withalligators
                        Recapping the power supply board for a Samsung 305T monitor, everything is Capxon except 2 Rubycons. I can't find data sheets matching these online, so don't know what ripple numbers, impedence, etc, to look for. There are a few different looking GL series data sheet PDFs, but the listing that matches the capacitance and voltage is a much bigger case size. I've narrowed down selections with lead spacing and case diameter, and what's in stock at Digi-key

                        1 x Capxon 1000uf35v GL C720(is this a part number or batch number, can't find it anywhere) 105c

                        1 x Capxon 1000uf35v...
                        03-25-2022, 02:30 PM
                      • DrewPhillips
                        Capacitor Diarrhea - Nichicon PL Series
                        by DrewPhillips
                        Hello All, I have on the bench a couple of PSU's which have some failed Nichicon PL series caps. They didn't "puke" their guts through the top, but instead "diarrhea'ed" corrosive brown electrolyte through the bottom, down the legs and onto the board. On one cap, the electrolyte rotted the cap right off the board leaving 2 little stubs, and also corroded a trace on the foil side.

                        The PSU's are Power-One MAP series and are ringing-choke topology. The semiconductors have date codes in 1993. The PSU's were used in a commercial application, fan-cooled. They had failed...
                        03-02-2025, 10:18 PM
                      • alro7779
                        Philips 32PFL4901/F8 BA4GF0F0102 2 Not getting standby led
                        by alro7779
                        Hello, guys!

                        The same 32" Philips TV I was having video issues, but now I don't have standby led at all. Someone here shared with me the schematic of the power supply, and checking the voltages, I see right after the resistor R604 I'm getting 1.6 v which is too low for enabling the Gate of the Q601 mosfet (the diagram says 4.2). On the R614 resistor I'm getting 181 V in and 117 V out, then through R603 I'm getting the same 117 V in and 59.9 V out, finally getting the latter voltage in the R604 BUT getting just 1.6 V out, which is the voltage that goes on to the Gate of the Q601...
                        09-14-2025, 12:25 AM
                      • nick3092
                        Mid/late 80's Nichicon Yellow Caps
                        by nick3092
                        I recently acquired a set of Bose Roomate speakers from the mid to late 80's. Basically the right speaker cabinet is completely passive, and the left one has the power transformer and amplifier circuit in it. Out of curiosity, I opened it up to see what the circuit looked like. Looks like they used all Nichicon VX (2x 4700uF/16v for smoothing off the bridge rectifier), a couple random Nichicon SE series sprinkled on the board, and what really caught my eye - 2 yellow sleeved Nichicon caps (both 1uF/50v with no real series marking. Below are pictures of the caps. The only thing not shown in these...
                        08-28-2022, 03:56 PM
                      • G33RT
                        Philips 8200 series 65PUS8204/12 stuck at Philips Logo
                        by G33RT
                        Philips 8200 series 65PUS8204/12 stuck at Philips Logo, it does not reboot it just stays on the logo.

                        It does power up when pressing the power button.

                        I already try the power button while plugin the plug with no result.
                        Also put the latest firmware autorun-TPM191E_R.001.004.100.000.upg on a MBR/FAT32 USB stick at USB port2 with no result either.

                        Could this be an PSU or eMMC issue ?
                        07-19-2025, 03:43 AM
                      • Loading...
                      • No more items.
                      Working...