Philips 42PFL5432D/37

[bbjunkie]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

BTW, to clarify some lingo that you guys are using.........

What is a single layer board,

A board with single layer of copper tracks, like your power supply. Copper tracks on the bottom only.

2 layer board,

A board with copper tracks on the upper and lower side.

4 layer board,

Like a 2 layer board, only with an additional 2 layers of copper tracks inside the board that can't be seen.

and what is OP ?

Original Poster (you in this case)

[PoteauPets]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

BTW, to clarify some lingo that you guys are using.........
What is a single layer board, 2 layer board, 4 layer board, and what is OP ?

THANX GUYS YOU ARE SOOO AWESOME !!!!!!!

[PoteauPets]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

Was re-reading our previous posts. The info for the capXons on the power board are for the 1500uv35 (group of 3) 2200uF16v (single)

[PoteauPets]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

Notice how both negative (the one with the stripe) side is facing towards the RoHS label........

Yep, I see it.......

And not only did I order ONE extra, I ordered ONE MORE EXTRA EXTRA...lol

So, the green caps on the power board need to be re-capped? That group of 3 measures abt. 1/2" x 1 3/8" tall, or 13x35, but the only thing I can see on them until I take them out is GF 105 P724.

[tom66]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

Changing capacitors on a single layer board is not difficult especially if the OP has succeeded at changing them on a 4 layer (at least) board. I was a noob to soldering before I started repairing stuff and I still struggle to repair 2 layer boards.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

Either way, it looks like those capacitors are for the audio output. Probably not critical to the operation of the TV.

Agreed. Post #57 advice/recommendation still stands. This is in addition to the newly bloated cap on the main board.

edit:

Just so it is clear to the OP, these Capxon caps (circled in red) on the power board are the ones likely to supply power to the master and slave inverter boards (the missing 24V DC). Even though they are not bloated, they could be low on capacitance.

In lay terms, it is just like you cannot tell if an AA battery is dead or not by looking at it.

PS. Of course, regulars here will recommend changing all the caps, but we have to consider her inexperience in soldering.

[tom66]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

Either way, it looks like those capacitors are for the audio output. Probably not critical to the operation of the TV. (Might make the audio not sound as good, though.)

[retiredcaps]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

Looks like it is reversed.

I suspected that, but wanted to see a picture for confirmation. It is reversed when compared to the original picture at

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...7&d=1325569041

Notice how both negative (the one with the stripe) side is facing towards the RoHS label.

If this cap were put in backwards in the power supply, it would have popped immediately.

Well, good thing you ordered a spare!

[tom66]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

Did you put it in the right way? Negative to negative? Looks like it is reversed.

[PoteauPets]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

Here are a few pics. I put a red arrow over the new cap that is now bad.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

Hey Retired, Just took a look at the two caps I replaced and one has already bloated !!
What is causing that?

Let's see a picture of it.

[PoteauPets]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

Hey Retired, Just took a look at the two caps I replaced and one has already bloated !!
What is causing that?

[PoteauPets]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

Remember, I replaced the 2 capXons that were bloated but didn't replace the third one since it looked okay. Do you think I should replace that third one and re-test everything again?

[retiredcaps]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

If you search this forum for 42PFL54*, you will see a lot of power boards with bloated Capxon caps.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

If 24V DC is not present on the inverter boards, then I would suspect those Capxon caps on the power supply.

Soldering on the power board will be easier than the logic board because most power boards are only single layer.

I suggest changing all the caps on the power supply with Panasonic FM equivalents from digikey.com.

Make a list of all the existing caps and we can help make the order.

[PoteauPets]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

Yep, it kicked off, no reading on either the slave or master side. Light on front is red or amber.

[PoteauPets]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

Sorry, I"ve been away. (Had some family emergencies) Anyway, I have re-tested both master and slave sides with power on and still get the 24v reading. Now, I am waiting for it to kick itself off or go black again to re-test. Be back in a few....=)

[retiredcaps]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

I will re-check to see that the 24V DC is present on both master and slave, but if it was good before, shouldn't it be good now?

In post #21, you reported that 24V DC was not present after the screen went blank. We are testing for the same thing. If 24V DC is not there, that points to the power supply.

[PoteauPets]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

I only re-capped the 2 that were bloated. Do you think that's my problem? I didn't want to tempt fate since it was my first time soldering, but now I am regretting it. I will re-check to see that the 24V DC is present on both master and slave, but if it was good before, shouldn't it be good now?
About the bad t-con in post #20, I never could see a picture when I shined a light inside, either before or now. But the green power light is staying on now after the recap, before the recap, it turned amber.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

If the sound and power light stayed on, that implies the main board is working correctly.

Check again when the TV goes off if 24V DC is present on the master and slave inverter board.

If not, that implies that the power board has a problem. Since other past owners of this set have posted pictures with bad caps on the power supply, I would suspect you will have to recap the power board given Capxon's poor reputation.

Remember caps don't have to bloat in order to be bad.

If 24V DC is present when the TV goes off, then that implies a bad t-con as PlainBill mentioned in post #20.