You all might get a laugh out of this one.
I have a sharp LC37D44U that the sound died on. replaced the board, lasted a short while and died again. so i said enough of that. Research shows that sharp was notorious for this, and no known fix except to replace the board. the audio IC has VCC present, but no enable voltage. forced-enable voltage doesnt bring sound back. and no settings in service menu does either.....
So, here is the fix:
Take out main digital board.
Solder 2 peices of shielded RCA style cable to the underside on the external audio output jacks. Run them underneath the board. mark whcih one is right, and which one is left.
Grab a cheap or free set of PC multimedia amplified speakers.
Run another shielded RCA style cable off of the 13V supply going into main digital board.
Remove and prepare audio amp board from the PC speakers. Discard the rest of the PC speakers. all you need is amp board.
Wire up the left and right audio input cables to the right sections of the amplifier board, pay attention when disassembling the PC speakers to remove the audio board so you know this.
Then wire up the left and right internal speakers into the output section of the audio amplifier board.
Wire in the 13V supply into the audio board, solder in a 0.1uf bypass ceramic cap on the power connection to audio amp board.
Do the same at the 13V supply side of power supply. this eliminates all "buzz" getting into the speakers.
Make sure power switch (if equipped) and volume pot is turned all the way up and on, on the amplifier board.
Insulate and hot-glue the hell out of the audio amplifier board, and "Stick" it somewhere on the panel mount brace. My best location was just below the digital board shroud, and above the stand.
Tidy up the wires and stick the back on.
Set audio from "Fixed" to "variable" in the menu, and once again, enjoy wonderful sound :-)
For extra brownie points, you could stick the power switch to the audio amp board, on the outside of the TV so if you hook your A/V component system to the TVs sound output, you can shut off the internal amp.
I never said this was the "right" way to fix it, but its "my" way to fix it, and it works. No need to replace the digital board 20 times to find out its sharps problem.
I have a sharp LC37D44U that the sound died on. replaced the board, lasted a short while and died again. so i said enough of that. Research shows that sharp was notorious for this, and no known fix except to replace the board. the audio IC has VCC present, but no enable voltage. forced-enable voltage doesnt bring sound back. and no settings in service menu does either.....
So, here is the fix:
Take out main digital board.
Solder 2 peices of shielded RCA style cable to the underside on the external audio output jacks. Run them underneath the board. mark whcih one is right, and which one is left.
Grab a cheap or free set of PC multimedia amplified speakers.
Run another shielded RCA style cable off of the 13V supply going into main digital board.
Remove and prepare audio amp board from the PC speakers. Discard the rest of the PC speakers. all you need is amp board.
Wire up the left and right audio input cables to the right sections of the amplifier board, pay attention when disassembling the PC speakers to remove the audio board so you know this.
Then wire up the left and right internal speakers into the output section of the audio amplifier board.
Wire in the 13V supply into the audio board, solder in a 0.1uf bypass ceramic cap on the power connection to audio amp board.
Do the same at the 13V supply side of power supply. this eliminates all "buzz" getting into the speakers.
Make sure power switch (if equipped) and volume pot is turned all the way up and on, on the amplifier board.
Insulate and hot-glue the hell out of the audio amplifier board, and "Stick" it somewhere on the panel mount brace. My best location was just below the digital board shroud, and above the stand.
Tidy up the wires and stick the back on.
Set audio from "Fixed" to "variable" in the menu, and once again, enjoy wonderful sound :-)
For extra brownie points, you could stick the power switch to the audio amp board, on the outside of the TV so if you hook your A/V component system to the TVs sound output, you can shut off the internal amp.
I never said this was the "right" way to fix it, but its "my" way to fix it, and it works. No need to replace the digital board 20 times to find out its sharps problem.