Al...we did clear the power supply, see my post #7, have 5v standby then 12 and 24V comes on when kicked up.
BTW...> the replacement inverters should be here by Sat. I intend to test/compare them side by side with mine before I ever try them out on the set, and report back here. If you have suggestions on what all to test on these boards out of circuit please advise.
I have this sinking feeling though that something else is bad either on the mainboard or on the T-con panel.
When you checked the power supply did you just unplug the cables to the inverters or to the mainboard as well? I'm currently working on a Visio VX42LHDTV10A that shows the amber to white logo and nothing else, so before I order a truckload of parts from Digikey I want to be sure of some things if you know what I mean.
No need to disconnect...but check your p/s output and the inverter and main board inputs when led is amber, and then again when it kicks up to white to see if all is well.
Can't locate that U9 chip anywhere, in the manual it's listed as a AP1117E18LA but that does nothing on Digikey.
It's AP1117E18GDICT-ND on Digikey.
Lecture time. To locate them on Digikey, enter the keyword Voltage Regulator and click Go (or Search Again). Under Integrated Circuits (ICs) click on PMIC - Voltage Regulators - Linear (34,840 items) Check the box next to In Stock and under Regulator Topology click on Positive Fixed, under voltage select 1.8 Volts Click on Apply filters. Scroll to the right, under Number of Regulators select 1, under Mounting Type select Surface Mount, and under Supplier Device Package select SOT223-3. Scroll back to the left and click on Apply filters. Under Current Limit select 1.1A , and Apply filters
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
Can't locate that U9 chip anywhere, in the manual it's listed as a AP1117E18LA but that does nothing on Digikey.
Did you ever fix this TV, Dossman. I just bought one of the same exact model as yours. I will not be working on it until after I move into my new house and set up my shop. I have a feeling these boards will be different than those of the previous set of this thread. That may be the reason why you may not have found that same chip. If you are still working on this set, post some pictures of the boards.
The strong-minded rise to the challenge of their goals,the weak-minded BECOME HATERS
DGtech and Dossman...
My set has been running well for sometime now, so I hope this will help get you two get it done as well. If you have a Vizio VW42LFHD model this thread has all the gyrations done for a fix. You may have some missing 'as built' components on mainboard as mine did, but it should be pretty close to that I show in the Post #1 pics.
...> Post # 95 gives the this thread fix summary to follow (yes this is here at this thread...see reply #95)..
More on your specific questions....
...>Post # 70 gives the most applicable meter readings on board for the LDO's. Although I tried reading these in several other ways, including external test circuits, this way gave the most discernable good/bad results.
...>Post #75 discusses the best Digikey replacement I used for any of the AMC1117 LDOs' like U2, U7, U8, U33.....it is digikey's 497-1229-1-ND
...>Post # 77 shows closeup of my U7 and U33 LDO's before replacement. These components are 3 leg+ tab SOT-223 packages not 8 legged IC's. And yes use chip-quik, just be sure the pads are cleaned to level, flux and make very sure the component is perfectly aligned on the pads before you touch that 1st leg with solder. If you have touched two or more legs and chip is too far off-center its too late, and the re-do is a real b..ch to do.
This is a good thread! Very informative and you guys are very helpful. I have a I have a Visio E42VO and i'm excited about getting it fixed myself, just based of what i'm learning here.
I really hope someone is still reading this out there. I have the same model TV and black screen problem but unfortunately found this forum a little too late So here is what is going on that I need a little help with... I opened her up and found my main board number to be 3642-0502-0150. I looked for a mainboard that matched but nobody had one in stock. So I decided to order the 3642-0472-0150. My logic was that since they are the same model Television, then they should take the same mainboards. So my question is.. would this swap work? Are they compatible? I receive the new mainboard tomorrow but would like to know if anyone has done something similar. ... Oh by the way, called Vizio to ask this question and wasted like 2 1/2 hours of my life.
I looked on the web and found three sites right off the bat selling your board and in stock, All I did was type in 3642-0502-0150 on the dogpile.com search page.
Also the sub that I found for your board was 3642-0502-0395 with Serial number beginning with: LSPBYDJ
So there is a chance that the board you bought might not work for you.
Are you sure that the problem is in the Mainboard? Were the inverters checked? That's where my problem was at on this set -bad inverter driver chip. I'm just curious. Do you have sound and no picture?
The strong-minded rise to the challenge of their goals,the weak-minded BECOME HATERS
Thanks for the quick reply guys. After reading for awhile...(not this site or post) I decided to trial and error it and start with the mainboard. The situation is.. when plugged in, black screen. Turn on and amber light comes on. No sound, no picture, black screen only. Thanks again for in stock info. Once again, I have already ordered the main board I previosly posted and will try it out. Hopefully it works If not I will return it and try what Kingofcoins has done and go from there.------ I did see that the board has an alternate part number as well.... man i hope the board i ordered works!! No i have not checked out the inverters. Wouldnt know what to look for to be honest. There was no swelling on any caps and I am replacing the 6.3A fuse just to be safe so.... ill stay in touch
stefnopolis...yours is a crap shoot at best...and likely will not fix your set. The forum and this thread are pretty clear on this...repairs are done with the suggested help and your thorough checking of readings and components in a stepwise process. I know its frustrating at times, but substituting parts for knowledge is not the way to go.
Here are the strongest fix suggestions thread has for you. If you are having trouble doing these, enlist the help of a local tech .
No 1... thoroughly check the p/s, and all the voltages across all the boards...
No 2... check the inverter boards and their IC's readings
No 3 ... check all the LDO's on the mainboard
Well... its 100% not the power supply. Now when I plug the tv in I get a steady amber light and when I turn it on a steady white. Gotta wait for the main board now.
Well... its 100% not the power supply. Now when I plug the tv in I get a steady amber light and when I turn it on a steady white. Gotta wait for the main board now.
do the backlights come on when powered on? It could still show a black screen with a tint of light. The lights can be easily identified with back cover off in the dark. If they power on I would suggest buying a new lcd controller/Tcon board.
hmm.. well, Im not 100% sure if I see a tint on the screen. Havent checked in the dark though. I almost feel like I see a dark dark blue color on the screen but my eyes may be deceiving me. Anyway.. which one is the lcd controller/Tcon? I see 2 inverters left and right, power supply up top, mainboard underneath power supply, and a small board above the power supply under a metal housing. I am assuming its the one above the power supply? If so.. what can I check on that particular board to c if it is the culprit? Any dead give aways? Also, Before and after I played around with the power supply... before, I would turn the TV on and the amber light would stay on for 2 sec then go back to a steady white. After, now that I have replaced the 6.3Amp fuse the lights are steady. I plug it in and get steady white.. turn on and get steady amber. It no longer goes back to white after a sec. of me pressing the power button. Does this mean anything?
Oh btw, It was extremely difficult for me to put that new fuse back on because the old one had some "caps" attached to both sides which I could not remove from the fuse and reuse. I had to do a terrible soldering job in order for it to stay in place ... that and some loctite super glue lol. Im not satisfied with this. I am not satisfied with this at all! Any suggestions on a proper fitment method?
Oh btw, It was extremely difficult for me to put that new fuse back on because the old one had some "caps" attached to both sides which I could not remove from the fuse and reuse. I had to do a terrible soldering job in order for it to stay in place ... that and some loctite super glue lol. Im not satisfied with this. I am not satisfied with this at all! Any suggestions on a proper fitment method?
Buy the proper fuse. The original fuse was a pigtail fuse; the replacement was designed to be used in a fuse holder.
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
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