Greetings everyone,
A couple weeks ago, my dad got a semi-fried SmartPower 500W from a cousin of mine. First-look "diagnosis": all the big "Fuhkyuu" bloated (even the primary ones), one resistor "well-done" (from the 5vsb area to the PFC controller chip, most likely its Vcc), one "tanned" zener in the same area, two pins of the KA7500 controller somewhat burnt.
I've attached photos of the "culprits". From what i've seen around this forum, the pcb is identical to the 350-400w versions, with the PFC section non-populated.
I'm going to chip-mod the 5vsb section, most likely with a TNY266's i've scavenged from a Dell PSU. I think/hope i've correctly "transplanted" everell's DM311 schematic to the TNY266, just too bad his photo-guide isn't quite as clear as i'd like it
Now, i intend / hope to revive it sometime soon. My hunch is that the PWM is quite surely fried, by the looks of things. With a bit of luck, i think i can source a replacement from a friend (it's pin-to-pin compatible with TL494).
I'd appreciate any tips you might have. It's a CWT-built unit, so it looks sturdy, to say the least, and it'd be quite a shame to go to waste
PS: Of course, it WILL get a re-cap (Nichicon, UCC, Rubycon and whatever else i can find in my stocks, of the right values and can sizes)
Thanks in advance,
Chris
A couple weeks ago, my dad got a semi-fried SmartPower 500W from a cousin of mine. First-look "diagnosis": all the big "Fuhkyuu" bloated (even the primary ones), one resistor "well-done" (from the 5vsb area to the PFC controller chip, most likely its Vcc), one "tanned" zener in the same area, two pins of the KA7500 controller somewhat burnt.
I've attached photos of the "culprits". From what i've seen around this forum, the pcb is identical to the 350-400w versions, with the PFC section non-populated.
I'm going to chip-mod the 5vsb section, most likely with a TNY266's i've scavenged from a Dell PSU. I think/hope i've correctly "transplanted" everell's DM311 schematic to the TNY266, just too bad his photo-guide isn't quite as clear as i'd like it
Now, i intend / hope to revive it sometime soon. My hunch is that the PWM is quite surely fried, by the looks of things. With a bit of luck, i think i can source a replacement from a friend (it's pin-to-pin compatible with TL494).
I'd appreciate any tips you might have. It's a CWT-built unit, so it looks sturdy, to say the least, and it'd be quite a shame to go to waste
PS: Of course, it WILL get a re-cap (Nichicon, UCC, Rubycon and whatever else i can find in my stocks, of the right values and can sizes)
Thanks in advance,
Chris
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