Guess thats the reason for my PC crashing sometimes...
Tagan TG330-UD1 full of Jenpo Crapacitors
, done after 3 years in a 2,8Ghz pentium 4.
Cause it is very silent (surprisingly the cheap trash sleeve bearing fans still run smoothly) and it was alreayd modified (230V outlet switched by a relay to power a water pump) i decided to repair it instead of throwing it straight away. I didnt buy any parts but used what was laying around anyway

I didnt take any "before" pics, sorry.
Thats what was left:

While its not easily visible, most of them are somewhat bulged.
Since i didnt have all the right capacitors around, some squeezing was needed, where necessary isolation in the form of clear heatshrink was added for safety.
12V rail: 2200µ 16V 10mm *2 replaced by 2200µ/16V 12mm Nichicon PW
5V: 3300uF/10V, 2200uF/10V 10mm replaced by 3900uF/6.3V 12mm Nichicon PM, 2200uF/6.3V 10mm Chemicon KZG
3.3V: same as 5V
2 470µ/16V 8mm replaced by 470µ/25V Rubycon ZL
2 more 1000µ/10V 8mm replaced by 1000µ/10V 8mm Chemicon KY
22µ 400V on PFC board replaced by 68µ 400V KMX
both 330µ/200V on primary side test ok.
these are marked with "Tk", anyone knows what brand this is?


Tagan seems not to give a shit about cleaning their boards after soldering by the way
Unless you want to have it blow up soon (the pcb layout is a catastrophe, very little clearance on some high voltage traces, the PFC board being the worst by far), really clean it.
Here, the primary side is already cleaned, the secondary side shows how it looked like before:

All cleaned, dryed and treated with high-voltage isolating laquer:

Put back together:


PC back online, working perfectly again.
Tagan TG330-UD1 full of Jenpo Crapacitors

Cause it is very silent (surprisingly the cheap trash sleeve bearing fans still run smoothly) and it was alreayd modified (230V outlet switched by a relay to power a water pump) i decided to repair it instead of throwing it straight away. I didnt buy any parts but used what was laying around anyway
I didnt take any "before" pics, sorry.
Thats what was left:
While its not easily visible, most of them are somewhat bulged.
Since i didnt have all the right capacitors around, some squeezing was needed, where necessary isolation in the form of clear heatshrink was added for safety.
12V rail: 2200µ 16V 10mm *2 replaced by 2200µ/16V 12mm Nichicon PW
5V: 3300uF/10V, 2200uF/10V 10mm replaced by 3900uF/6.3V 12mm Nichicon PM, 2200uF/6.3V 10mm Chemicon KZG
3.3V: same as 5V
2 470µ/16V 8mm replaced by 470µ/25V Rubycon ZL
2 more 1000µ/10V 8mm replaced by 1000µ/10V 8mm Chemicon KY
22µ 400V on PFC board replaced by 68µ 400V KMX
both 330µ/200V on primary side test ok.
these are marked with "Tk", anyone knows what brand this is?
Tagan seems not to give a shit about cleaning their boards after soldering by the way

Unless you want to have it blow up soon (the pcb layout is a catastrophe, very little clearance on some high voltage traces, the PFC board being the worst by far), really clean it.
Here, the primary side is already cleaned, the secondary side shows how it looked like before:
All cleaned, dryed and treated with high-voltage isolating laquer:
Put back together:
PC back online, working perfectly again.
Comment