Which optocoupler to buy?

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  • mpadilla
    Member
    • Dec 2015
    • 24
    • US

    #1

    Which optocoupler to buy?

    I must say it's great the amount of guidance that's available in this forumn!

    I have this LN32A550P3FS, that when plugged in the standby light blinks steady. Following on guidance from this forumn and others, I opened up the tv and found on visual inspection some capacitors were bulging. I replaced the capacitors minding polarity. I put the tv back together with same results of standby light blinking. By the way all voltages are correct after replacing capacitors except for the standby voltage. The board stamp says it should be 5.2 but it measures as 4.19. The power supply is BN44-00208A (PSLF171501B). I did more research and found this zip file and this post that basically state a certain optocoupler needs replacing. However, this zip file and post were for a slightly different model. But I believe the problem might be the same. I see in the schematic that the optocoupler is tlp781. When I search (digikey and others) many different types come up.

    Can someone possibly point me to the correct one to buy?
    Attached Files
  • fzabkar
    Badcaps Veteran
    • Mar 2009
    • 772
    • Australia

    #2
    Re: Which optocoupler to buy?

    I would check capacitors CB852 (the 5V filter) and CB802. CB802 filters the auxiliary supply for the PWM controller IC.

    Also measure the voltages between pins 1 & 2 and 3 & 4 of PC804S, but be mindful of the HOT side.

    Comment

    • budm
      Badcaps Legend
      • Feb 2010
      • 40746
      • USA

      #3
      Re: Which optocoupler to buy?

      From your link:
      http://www.electronicspoint.com/thre...2#post-1603408
      'Problem: optocoupler PC801S defective - replace. Then replace the RP809, RP810, RP811, RP812, RP816! Good luck! BART'

      That opto PC801S has nothing to do with low 5V STBY, that OPTO is used for turning on/off the rest of the power supply when the power supply get the PS-ON control signal from the main board.
      Opto PC804S is the one used for voltage regulation feed back to main tain 5V output.
      So chekc what fzabkar has suggested.
      Last edited by budm; 12-19-2015, 05:01 PM.
      Never stop learning
      Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

      Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

      Inverter testing using old CFL:
      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

      Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
      http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

      TV Factory reset codes listing:
      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

      Comment

      • mpadilla
        Member
        • Dec 2015
        • 24
        • US

        #4
        Re: Which optocoupler to buy?

        I will test and get back. Thank you for the feedback.

        Comment

        • budm
          Badcaps Legend
          • Feb 2010
          • 40746
          • USA

          #5
          Re: Which optocoupler to buy?

          BTW, this series is know for bad C102 47uF 10V SMD Tantalum cap on the main board, one of the symptom is LED blinking continuously.
          For example:
          https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...911#post616911

          http://www.shopjimmy.com/catalogsear...t/?q=LN32A550P
          Last edited by budm; 12-19-2015, 09:29 PM.
          Never stop learning
          Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

          Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

          Inverter testing using old CFL:
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

          Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
          http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

          TV Factory reset codes listing:
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

          Comment

          • mpadilla
            Member
            • Dec 2015
            • 24
            • US

            #6
            Re: Which optocoupler to buy?

            Thank you for pointing that out budm. Of course this tv has that exact board. I'll replace that cap on the main board and report back.

            Comment

            • mpadilla
              Member
              • Dec 2015
              • 24
              • US

              #7
              Re: Which optocoupler to buy?

              Ok, I was super tired the first time I measured and it came out that the stby voltage was low. However, today I have had rest. I went back and re-measured everything. Here's the results. PS looks good to me based on measured values? I'm thinking now all I need is C102 as budm mentioned. Can you provide feedback?

              CNM801
              1 - B/L ON/OFF
              2 - ADIM
              3 - PWM
              4 - GND
              5 - SCHEMATIC SAYS 24V DETECT; BOARD STAMPED DET. 5V: MEASURED 5.5V

              CNM802
              1 - PWR-ON/OFF
              2 - N/C
              3 - ST-BY5.2V: 5.3V
              4 - GND
              5 - GND
              6 - GND
              7 - 12.8V: 12.3V
              8 - 12.8V: 12.4V
              9 - GND
              10 - GND
              11 - GND
              12 - GND
              13 - 5.3V: 5.2V
              14 - 5.3V: 5.3V
              15 - 5.3V: 5.2V
              16 - 5.3V: 5.3V
              17 - GND
              18 - GND
              19 - 12V: 12.1V
              20 - GND
              21 - 12V: 12.1V
              22 - 12V: 12.1V
              23 - N/C
              24 - N/C

              CNM803
              1 - 24V: 24.7
              2 - 24V: 24.7
              3 - 24V: 24.7
              4 - 24V: 24.7
              5 - 24V: 24.7
              6 - GND
              7 - GND
              8 - GND
              9 - GND
              10 - GND
              11 - N/C
              12 - B/L ON/OFF
              13 - ADIM
              14 - PWM

              Comment

              • budm
                Badcaps Legend
                • Feb 2010
                • 40746
                • USA

                #8
                Re: Which optocoupler to buy?

                At this point go ahead and replace that c102 cap, if you do not have it, you can use 100uF 10~16V LOW ESR lytics cap for testing by putting it in parallel with C102, notes: the bar marking on the C102 is the POSITIVE leg of the cap.
                Never stop learning
                Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
                http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

                Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
                http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

                Inverter testing using old CFL:
                http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

                Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
                http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

                TV Factory reset codes listing:
                http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

                Comment

                • mpadilla
                  Member
                  • Dec 2015
                  • 24
                  • US

                  #9
                  Re: Which optocoupler to buy?

                  Thank you for the advice! Unfortunately, out of all the components I have, I don't have a 100uF 10~16V LOW ESR lytics cap for testing.

                  I'll just order the C102 cap linked to digikey in the linked post. Thanks budm! I'll report back in a few days with my results.

                  Comment

                  • mpadilla
                    Member
                    • Dec 2015
                    • 24
                    • US

                    #10
                    Re: Which optocoupler to buy?

                    Worked like a charm! After soldering the new c102 cap, TV is functional again. Thank you again for the guidance!
                    Last edited by mpadilla; 12-24-2015, 06:50 PM.

                    Comment

                    • budm
                      Badcaps Legend
                      • Feb 2010
                      • 40746
                      • USA

                      #11
                      Re: Which optocoupler to buy?

                      Thanks for the repair follow-up.
                      Never stop learning
                      Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
                      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

                      Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
                      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

                      Inverter testing using old CFL:
                      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

                      Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
                      http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

                      TV Factory reset codes listing:
                      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

                      Comment

                      • japlytic
                        Badcaps Legend
                        • Oct 2005
                        • 2086
                        • Australia

                        #12
                        Re: Which optocoupler to buy?

                        Care should be taken in substituting the optocoupler since I have read in Power Integrations Application Note AN-14, the Current Transfer Ratio (CTR) of the optocoupler should be within a certain level (and not have an uncontrolled value) suitable for the controller; otherwise, the power supply could oscillate, or for too low CTR, excessive photodiode currents are required to properly control the controller duty cycle, and if CTR is too high, the shutdown latch or other protection features on the controller could be triggered during startup or load transients.
                        My first choice in quality Japanese electrolytics is Nippon Chemi-Con, which has been in business since 1931... the quality of electronics is dependent on the quality of the electrolytics.

                        Comment

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