OCZ 700 Watt Bug Zapper Recap & Repair

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  • Behemot
    replied
    Re: OCZ 700 Watt Bug Zapper Recap & Repair

    I got the same model here, 700W. Similar situation: input cap was bad, I've replaced it. No big transistor or rectifier seems shorted. Stand-by rail outputs 5.16 V so that's OK, but it only twists when I try to turn on. Repeatedly. Lightbulb in series indicates no problem.

    It's Sirtec platform for sure. I was also first thinking the FETs are bad, but they have 4R7 resistor between their gate and source pins which I think explains it. Or should I remove them as well to be sure? It would make sense something else was damaged because of the failed bulk capacitor…

    Leave a comment:


  • manthi
    replied
    Re: OCZ 700 Watt Bug Zapper Recap & Repair

    Originally posted by stj
    yes, see if the short is still there.
    ok i see, thanks for the clarifications, at the moment i put that psu aside , i am going to get back at it after the chrismass season.
    have fun everybody

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: OCZ 700 Watt Bug Zapper Recap & Repair

    yes, see if the short is still there.

    Leave a comment:


  • manthi
    replied
    Re: OCZ 700 Watt Bug Zapper Recap & Repair

    Originally posted by stj
    leave it for now and go meter the pads on the board.
    not sure what you want me to do with the pads, you means the pads the mosfet connects to the pcb?

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: OCZ 700 Watt Bug Zapper Recap & Repair

    leave it for now and go meter the pads on the board.

    Leave a comment:


  • manthi
    replied
    Re: OCZ 700 Watt Bug Zapper Recap & Repair

    Originally posted by stj
    maybe, did you test them on the board, or removed first?
    on the board
    now i removed them, and i did this test

    http://itrepairguide.com/how-to-test...th-multimeter/

    when i connect the black probe to the drain and red probe to the source i get a reading of 623 (continuity setting) on both mosfet, but when i try to charge them up, black probe to drain, red to gate for a few seconds, when i move the red probe to the source, i do not get any beeping, and the multimeter give me a value of 127 (both mosfet)

    i try this on a working fu9024n, and it is beeping.

    what do you make of this?

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: OCZ 700 Watt Bug Zapper Recap & Repair

    maybe, did you test them on the board, or removed first?

    Leave a comment:


  • manthi
    replied
    Re: OCZ 700 Watt Bug Zapper Recap & Repair

    thanks for the input,
    i did some more testing and found 2 mosfet 20n60c3(q701 q702) when i set my multimeter to 200 homs, i get 5.5 between the gate (pin 1) and the source (pin 3), it means it is shorted no?

    Leave a comment:


  • Behemot
    replied
    Re: OCZ 700 Watt Bug Zapper Recap & Repair

    I think it should be connected, otherwise the pin would be severed from the rest of the path. According to datasheet it is drain, those four common are source. But the diode may have been already bad. Or something else. Now when it exploded you have to check every component in that circuit, something else may went bad during the blast.

    Leave a comment:


  • manthi
    replied
    Re: OCZ 700 Watt Bug Zapper Recap & Repair

    here's a picture of the regulator i soldered yesterday
    can someone tell me if i fucked up, on the red arrow i notice i made a connection between the diode and the regulator leg,
    what does the white line underneath means (no connection?)
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Sparkey55
    replied
    Re: OCZ 700 Watt Bug Zapper Recap & Repair

    Originally posted by Behemot
    You never know what is the internal resistance of shorted PSU…there are always losses on the silicon (bridge rectifier etc.), thermistor and so on. But it is never so close to zero.
    You just amaze me Sherlock.

    Leave a comment:


  • Behemot
    replied
    Re: OCZ 700 Watt Bug Zapper Recap & Repair

    You never know what is the internal resistance of shorted PSU…there are always losses on the silicon (bridge rectifier etc.), thermistor and so on. But it is never so close to zero.

    Initially the voltage on the bulb is very low, if the current is high than it heats the filament and as its resistance increases it takes most of the voltage. But it still lowers the maximum current (usually the initial resistance is couple tens of ohms) so much the unit is able to withstand it for the short time before the current drops to minimum.
    Last edited by Behemot; 11-30-2015, 05:31 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sparkey55
    replied
    Re: OCZ 700 Watt Bug Zapper Recap & Repair

    Originally posted by Behemot
    The voltage is not the most important aspect. The current limiting which the small-wattage bulb provides is important. A 60W bulb at 230 V has about quarter ampere going through which most power silicon handles.
    Your nit-picking is quite annoying and uncalled for. With a shorted psu most if not practically all the voltage will be across the brightly lit series bulb with only a few volts across the psu. We are assuming a supply source of 120 VAC. So if for istance the bulb sees 115 VAC and the psu sees 5 VAC well then the tester is doing its job.

    Leave a comment:


  • Behemot
    replied
    Re: OCZ 700 Watt Bug Zapper Recap & Repair

    The voltage is not the most important aspect. The current limiting which the small-wattage bulb provides is important. A 60W bulb at 230 V has about quarter ampere going through which most power silicon handles.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sparkey55
    replied
    Re: OCZ 700 Watt Bug Zapper Recap & Repair

    Originally posted by manthi
    oups!!
    received my TNY278P (IC501) switching regulator this morning, so i installed it,
    but as soon as i turned the power on, i heard a bang and saw some sparks inside the psu, the same part (ic501) had blown again, so i have to find what cause this
    You should be using a series light bulb tester to reduce the voltage to the power supply. It would have saved the chip from utter destruction. Since the psu still has a short circuit the voltage would have divided between the bulb and the psu with the bulb having the greater voltage across it.

    Leave a comment:


  • manthi
    replied
    Re: OCZ 700 Watt Bug Zapper Recap & Repair

    oups!!
    received my TNY278P (IC501) switching regulator this morning, so i installed it,
    but as soon as i turned the power on, i heard a bang and saw some sparks inside the psu, the same part (ic501) had blown again, so i have to find what cause this

    Leave a comment:


  • manthi
    replied
    Re: OCZ 700 Watt Bug Zapper Recap & Repair

    here it is
    i think it was the paper roll that was moving inside
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: OCZ 700 Watt Bug Zapper Recap & Repair

    use sidecutters to peel the edge of the can away from the rubber bung.

    it may hiss when you first cut into it if pressure has built up.

    Leave a comment:


  • Behemot
    replied
    Re: OCZ 700 Watt Bug Zapper Recap & Repair

    Cut the sleeve, than usually cut the aluminium can by the the rubber sealing (or you may try to pry it out using small screwdriver). Remove the rubber and than the foil roll should go out. Or cut the can more to remove it.

    Just be carefull to not cut yourself.

    Leave a comment:


  • manthi
    replied
    Re: OCZ 700 Watt Bug Zapper Recap & Repair

    Originally posted by Per Hansson
    Please dissect the capacitor and post some pics of it's innards.
    ok will try to do it this week, any special precaution to take before doing this, i never opened a capacitor, what is the proper procedure?

    Leave a comment:

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