SYMSI70 gas heater, TOP247Y exploded, power supply, snubber network

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  • hikomalek
    New Member
    • Aug 2023
    • 8
    • Slovakia

    #1

    SYMSI70 gas heater, TOP247Y exploded, power supply, snubber network

    Hello, I have a SYMSI70 gas heater board, which has issues with its primary side power supply, controlled by TOP247Y chip.
    When I replace a TOP247Y it explode in 1 second. I have desoldered transformer and measured a winding ratio, so transformer looks like OK.

    Transformer:

    |Info| Primary | Aux | AB | CD|
    |-|----------|----------|-|-|
    |Ratio|1|25|40|12|
    |Voltage AC|230V|9.2V|5.8V|19V|
    |Voltage DC (*1.41)|230V|13V|8.1V|27V|

    I have disabled a undervoltage protection of TOP247Y, disconnected secondaries and tried to power it up with voltage from 50 to 150V DC (I have connected in series multiple 32V DC printer power supplies).
    When I connected all secondaries, all voltages were correct, display was showing an error "F10" as nothing was connected and "some relays" on board were switching. So board works correctly on 150V DC.
    A Drain-Source current(on primary side) was about 50mA, power consumption about 8W. On the board, nothing is hot, so there are no hot components.
    But when I connected it to 230V AC, which is about 325V DC, TOP247Y exploaded. This happen everytime. I have another older board which has some "logic issues" and chip TOP247Y works correctly in this old board, so the chip TOP247Y is not broken.
    I have transformer out of the board on about 30cm wires.

    It means that error must be in a snubber network, there are two, one around a transformer and the second around a Drain-Source of TOP247Y chip. I do not have ESR meter or oscilloscope, I have only simple "Non-True RMS multimeter".

    I have even tried to put a P6KE300A tvs diode to primary snubber network,
    Diode BA159 was OK, but I have replaced that with UF4007.
    Snubber capacitor C803 (10n) I have replaced with two 6.3nF 400v capacitors
    Second snubber capacitor C1, about 70pF was "white SMD ceramic MLCC" I have replaced with "simple ceramic" which is probably for low voltage only.

    When I'm measuring voltages even with 50V DC power supply, snubber voltages are high, about 200-500 V on multiple places.

    I have some P6KE130A (tvs diode), should I use it?

    How can I check it safety? I wanted to use a tyristor dimmer to slowly rise a voltage (I do not have a variac), but it is just cutting some pieces of waves and does not limit max voltage, so TOP247Y exploded too. So I'm thinking of using some "capacitive divider" to make a lower voltage.

    So there is no overcurrent, just an overvoltage caused by a snubber network malfunction. Please what can I do with that? Everything looks like correct


    Attached Files
  • CapLeaker
    Leaking Member
    • Dec 2014
    • 8288
    • Canada

    #2
    Means Jack sh*t to me. These TOP, LNK, TNY etc switchers are quite delicate. If the board isn’t hospital grade clean in between the pins, the switcher will also just fail. I fixed a device where someone else didn’t properly clean around the pins. device ran for a few hours and bang, the switcher went. I did the second repair and it is still running today 24/7/365.
    make sure everything is absolutely clean. The problem with these TO220-6 is that the pins are too close together, HV doesn’t have to work hard in order to get into a different pin. To me these TO220-6 is the worst design ever.
    I wouldn’t disable UVLO etc. Snubber caps I always replace them with the same value, but 2KV rated. Symptoms of TOP etc, lid blown off to looking brand new but still dead. Had found them do all that on various devices. Good luck!

    Comment

    • stj
      Great Sage 齊天大聖
      • Dec 2009
      • 31150
      • Albion

      #3
      topswitches have a long history of exploding in 2 situations.
      1: poor startup capacitor causing it to hickup till the boom.
      2: low supply voltage causing it to not start oscillating properly.

      Comment

      • stj
        Great Sage 齊天大聖
        • Dec 2009
        • 31150
        • Albion

        #4
        just a thought,
        make sure it's getting smooth 340v-ish dc,
        a bad rectifier or input cap could blow one.

        Comment

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