Hello Everyone. I have been visiting this website and forum for a few months and have found it to be an excellent resource. I have so far recapped an old video card and a motherboard. Neither of these items were all that useful to me and I used them as a learning experience. I have a small pc repair business and I have used Antec power supplies in almost all of my builds. Up to this point I have been very happy with them. One day a couple weeks ago after a power failure. I went to turn on my second pc and it did not power up. The lan light was on, so I tried turning the machine on a few times with no result. After all sorts of troubleshooting I determined that my MSI KT4V had died and I ordered a replacement motherboard and CPU. It was cheaper to get a socket 754 A64 and Biostar motherboard than to try to find a decent brand new socket A board. I rebuilt the system and I am using it now. I used a different power supply for this build. It is an Antec True Power Trio TP3-550. The old power supply was an Antec Neo 480. When testing the old parts I found that the only bad component was the motherboard (or so I thought) After rebuilding the system I decided to put the Neo 480 in another system and it similarly did not power up. I quickly yanked the Neo and luckily the system worked with a different power supply. Here is where I stand: I am angry with Antec. I opened the Neo and found the dreaded fuhjyyu caps. At this point I have a dead KT4V (it probably was fine until I kept trying to get it to power on with the Neo) that shows 4 red lights on the d-led bracket. (the 4 red lights indicates a dead or improperly installed cpu) The cpu tested fine on a different motherboard. Interestingly I was able to get the Neo to power up a different motherboard with no load on it. So to sum it up: I would like to get the Neo and the KT4v working again. I have tons of computers so that is not the point. I would like to learn to repair this sort of thing. Where should I begin. Thanks in advance for any input.
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Re: Antec Neo 480
A couple of things to add. I just received a bios post card. When I power on the KT4V with a different power supply, all the fans spin, but I get no Post. The Post card reports 00 as an error code and if I jumper the power pins it will reset and then display dd on the post card. It is an AMI bios and I believe that 00 and dd indicate a dead board. Also the fuhyjuu caps inside the NEO 480 do not appear to be leaking or bulged. Maybe Topcat could come up with some Antec power supply kits. I find it a bit daunting going to the digikey website and knowing which caps to order. That and I'm sure I would have to purchase way more than I would need. It seems that these Antecs are worth recapping and the failure rate is quite high, so maybe power supply kits are worth thinking about. -
Re: Antec Neo 480
crickets.................Comment
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Re: Antec Neo 480
The capacitor selection shouldn't be too varied, either 6.3 OR 10/16v components AFAIK (to operate on the 3.3 5 & 12v lines respectively) hence you'd only need to ensure the correct capacitance & Low ESR status
Additionally, why go to digikey? if you collected the values off the side of the defective components, I'm sure TopCat could help you out somewhat (depending on where you are located)
Sorry to hear about the KT4, just curious if you cleared the CMOS during your attempts to POST... you probably did (just didn't mention it), also it's worth pointing out that it's predecessor the KT3 Ultra had a quantity of 1000uF Teapo's how did the KT4 fair with capacitor selection?
Lastly, if it's not too much trouble how about some Neo480 Post-Mortem pic's?
Last edited by tazwegion; 04-28-2007, 07:40 AM.Viva LA Retro!Comment
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Re: Antec Neo 480
Yes, I did try clearing the CMOS. I even removed the battery and jumped it for about 45 minutes. Still no dice. I will post some pics soon.Comment
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Re: Antec Neo 480
I received a replacement kt4v today from ebay and I have been messing around a bit more. First I tested that the replacement board worked. It did. I then popped the bios chip from the working board and put it in the non-working one. It still didn't work. Interestingly the non-working board will have spinning fans as soon as I hit the switch on the power supply whereas the working board needs to be jumped to power on. If I jump the reset pins on the non-working board while the fans are spinning it does nothing. If I jump the power switch pins while the fans are running the system will sort of reset and the d-led bracket now displays 1 green light and 3 reds instead of 4 reds. It still doesn't post but the code for this d-led display is early chipset initialization. Any thoughts?Comment
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Re: Antec Neo 480
I'd have to guess (as there are far better qualified than myself here) that the voltage regulation (for the CPU) on the dud-board is what has died, giving you the 4 red LED error code, the fans would all still spin up because they 'source' their voltage from differing areas of the board
Still curious as to what MSI fitted to the KT4 series in way of branded capacitors?
Viva LA Retro!Comment
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Re: Antec Neo 480
There is one teapo 470 uf 10 v near memory and floppy, 2 rubycon 470 uf 10v near the bottom pci slot. There are 4 nichicon 1800 uf 6.3 v around the cpu, 3 2200 uf 6.3 v Rubycon between the cpu and mb power connectors, another rubycon 470 uf 10 v near the lan/usb connectors and one behind the power connector. there are 3 KZG United Chemicon 1500 uf 16 v next to the 2200 uf Rubycons. I replaced all the KZG 1000 uf 6.3 v with rubycon 1000 uf 10 v.Comment
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Some Pics
Here are some pics.Attached FilesComment
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some more pics
More Pics.Attached FilesComment
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Re: Antec Neo 480
On the last pic of the motherboard some of the caps are hard to read. Left side back are KZG united Chemicon, Right side back are Rubycon, Middle black are Nichicon and the blurry ones in front are the replacement Rubycons that I put in.Comment
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Re: Antec Neo 480
What is the significance of the extra height of the fuhjyyus in the power supply. Can I replace them with normal size capacitors?Comment
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Re: Antec Neo 480
Yeah sure you can use similar sized Low ESR capacitors, keep in mind though the taller cap's were likely used due to limited space within the PSU's design, in short you'll need to use the 10mm diameter capacitors of the same value(s)
I originally purchased some Hitano EXR series capacitors to repair my Antec, but discovered to my dismay the (3300uF) 12.5mm dia. caps were going to prove difficult to fit (and ugly)
Viva LA Retro!Comment
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Re: Antec Neo 480
Well, this saga has come to a close. I recapped the Antec and I must have fucked up. I felt that my soldering was good, but when I powered it on when it was plugged into my power supply tester I got a couple sparks and then DEAD silence. That was enough for me. I removed the new caps and tossed the Antec. I decided to keep the section of the power supply case that held the 120 mm fan so that I can use it as a template for cutting holes in older computer cases for 120 mm fans. I did the same thing with an old deer power supply except that one used an 80 mm fan. Oh well.Comment
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Re: Antec Neo 480
Whenever I do any work to a ps, I ALWAYS make sure the cover is on and STAND BACK!!! ouch....Comment
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Re: Antec Neo 480
Other than checking and rechecking the polarity of the capacitors (installed), I find that I'm removing more solder than I add... the trained monkey's who put these PSU's together must go through quite a lot of solder each day
Viva LA Retro!Comment
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Vizio e601i-A3 - Has Sound and Display, But No Backlight - Bad Power Supply Board or Bad LED Bulbs ?I was given this TV from my great uncle. He said it just wouldn't turn on one day out of nowhere, replaced the TV, and gave it to me to possibly fix and use for myself.
Upon bringing it home and plugging it up, it showed a standby light.
I powered it on and without a flashlight, the display showed the "V" but the lighting is very dim, but visible.
The screen seems to blackout and stay black, but with a flashlight I can see the display.
With my Playstation 4 connected via HDMI, and running a game I can hear sound.
Assuming... -
I have wanting to do this project for quite sometime now and I finally found a switching power supply that will work on this desoldering gun station ZD-915 that the original switching power supply took a shit and just was not worth trying to fix it because this switching power is not quite big enough to handle the heater element and the vacuum pump
One note when I tested the switching power supply and the voltage control board I noticed that this desoldering gun heat up much faster than the original switching power supply which I was really surprised by to the point that I might buy... -
I have been working on this concept for quite some time now with limited success but recently I found a switching power supply that is setup for the voltage that this soldering station needs to operate at however it also needs part of the secondary circuit from the original switching power because you need several voltage rails
I once tried to get a ZD-915 desoldering station to work on a 18 volt battery power supply but unfortunately things did not go well but I did find a work around but I might try this idea again but going at a little differently more about this another time... -
The sub developed a constant popping every couple seconds from woofer and power LED flickering with nothing but wall AC connected. Connecting an audio cable didn't change anything. It doesn't play but a second or two of audio in between the pops.
Opened it up and discovered the power supply is making a faint clicking or ticking sound.
I measured the amp's output to the woofer and it pulses up to 50mv DC to be driver. The pulses coincide with the power supply ticking/clicking.
I measured the power supply output going to the amp board and it too has this pulsing. Voltage cycles... -
Hello Everybody,
Trying to repair a power supply from a Russound CA4 Multizone Controller (picture attached)
Russound no longer supports it but were kind enough to provide a schematic of the power supply (pdf attached).
The outputs marked 12v and 20v are all measuring only 1v.
The board is clicking, which I think means it is in something called hiccup mode when the flyback transformers switches because of an internal problem or something else on the board Overloading it.
The capacitors physically look clean (no bludgesor leaks) and...
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