Another Delux 500w psu

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • mariushm
    Badcaps Legend
    • May 2011
    • 3799

    #1

    Another Delux 500w psu

    Got this power supply as a "tip" for fixing a 19" lcd monitor a few days ago.

    It was pulled out from a pc in an internet cafe location where people used to smoke, so it smells a bit and I had to clean it of nicotine and other gunk inside.

    Owner said it doesn't work and he thought the main capacitors were faulty. One of them is indeed swollen but my feeling was that the glue was causing some problems, not the capacitors.

    When I first got it, it wasn't starting up at all, no 5v standby, nothing.

    So i opened it up, cleaned the backside with some cotton dabbed in isopropyl alcohol.
    Main capacitors are asia-x, Desoldered them... they say 470uF on them, one tested 410uF 0.15 ohm esr, the slightly swollen one tested 390uF 0.2 ohm. While I had them off the board I also rubbed the area around the main capacitors. Soldered the main capacitors back on the board.
    I also tested the main transistors and they seemed fine.

    I tested the diode on the 5v standby and it measured 0.15v in both directions. I desoldered it, measured it out of circuit and it measured fine. Put it back in the circuit and it measured fine... puzzled by this... maybe i flexed the wire a bit and removed some short inside the diode? Was it a bad solder joint?

    Anyway.. plugged the psu back in the mains and now I had 5v standby... shorted the green wire with a 1ohm resistor to ground and now power supply started right up, 12.15v, 5.1v, 3.35v, -11.3v.. only one not sure may be the -5v which may measure 5v but I may have probed a different wire by accident.

    I'll replace the diode anyway, just to be sure but otherwise i don't know.. could it be something else, some cold joint, something that I now moved and made it work?

    Here's pictures. 13009 primary transistors, bu375 for 5v standby (i think), 16a to-220 diode set for 12v, some 20-30a (probably) for 3.3v and 5v.. I can't tell from pictures the exact values and I dont want to touch the psu again because I'd have to wash my hands again.








    Attached Files
  • SM-Piyes90
    Senior Member
    • Feb 2014
    • 120
    • Morocco

    #2
    Re: Another Delux 500w psu

    Maybe after removing and putting back those big capacitors things got alive again due to heat , just a guess .

    Comment

    • Escort Eagle
      Senior Member
      • Jul 2012
      • 110
      • USA

      #3
      Re: Another Delux 500w psu

      What is your PSU current condition ? Is it running now ?? Every PSU does not have -5V . Is there any White Cable in your PSU . If you have any White cable in PSU, then you can get -5V, otherwise Not .

      Comment

      • mariushm
        Badcaps Legend
        • May 2011
        • 3799

        #4
        Re: Another Delux 500w psu

        You know, now that you mention it, I didn't even check the label. It doesn't advertise the -5v rail, I just assumed being such an old design it would have it.

        The power supply ran on the workbench with the power good signal tied to ground. It's still open on the bench because I still plan to change that diode just to be sure. I may also switch around the rectifier diodes so that the 16A one will go on the 3.3v instead of 12v. Unfortunately at the moment I don't have beefier rectifier diodes in to-220 package right now.

        Comment

        • Escort Eagle
          Senior Member
          • Jul 2012
          • 110
          • USA

          #5
          Re: Another Delux 500w psu

          Sorry, I do not understand what you are trying to say !!

          Comment

          • SM-Piyes90
            Senior Member
            • Feb 2014
            • 120
            • Morocco

            #6
            Re: Another Delux 500w psu

            Originally posted by mariushm
            You know, now that you mention it, I didn't even check the label. It doesn't advertise the -5v rail, I just assumed being such an old design it would have it.

            The power supply ran on the workbench with the power good signal tied to ground. It's still open on the bench because I still plan to change that diode just to be sure. I may also switch around the rectifier diodes so that the 16A one will go on the 3.3v instead of 12v. Unfortunately at the moment I don't have beefier rectifier diodes in to-220 package right now.
            Why do you want to change the diode , instead i would change the two big caps .

            Comment

            • c_hegge
              Badcaps Legend
              • Sep 2009
              • 5219
              • Australia

              #7
              Re: Another Delux 500w psu

              ^
              Because the Diodes will have more of an effect on the efficiency
              I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!

              No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards

              Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium

              Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 Pro

              Comment

              • mariushm
                Badcaps Legend
                • May 2011
                • 3799

                #8
                Re: Another Delux 500w psu

                That 16F020C part is a 16A 200v diode set ( 8A x 2):

                This is also only valid at up to 100c - if the internal temperature goes above 100c then the diodes get derated so you have even less current. With those heatsinks it's possible to get close to 100c inside the component.

                16A x 12v = 192 watts .. really little value on 12v for a 500w psu, especially considering modern computers use 12v a lot.

                I would change the big capacitors but I don't have something matching that "in stock" and this type of psu is just too shitty to be worth paying about 3-5$ for some good capacitors. If (or better put when) I'm going to get some other faulty psus, I'll recycle some caps from those. At the moment, the ~ 400uF on each cap is enough.

                later edit. If you mean why that diode by the 5v standby? Well, simply because it wasn't working before, and power supply started working after I resoldered it back to the board.
                Just in case there's some fracture on the diode that made it short out (it was measuring 0.15v in both directions when faulty), or there's some issue with the diode itself, it's better to be safe than sorry and just replace it.Diodes are cheap, and I have a bunch of them in my boxes of spare parts.
                Last edited by mariushm; 03-06-2014, 04:50 PM.

                Comment

                • mariushm
                  Badcaps Legend
                  • May 2011
                  • 3799

                  #9
                  Re: Another Delux 500w psu

                  So I found a FR302 in the spare parts and replaced the dubious 1n5822. Both 3A, both fast diodes, should be fine for 5v Standby 2A max.

                  Took out the rectifier for the 3.3v and it turns out it's a 20A 45v max rated part, so I won't gain much, just 4 amps.


                  As you can see... the 500w rating on label is a dream ... 20a @ 3.3v , 20a @ 5v, 16a @ 12v.

                  Changed the main capacitors with a couple I found in the box of parts, I think they were from another Delux that was only rated for 400w. They say 330uF on the label but really they're only rated for 220uF.

                  So I'm going down from ~ 390uF per capacitor to 220uF per capacitor. It will decrease the maximum power it can output so I'm not very happy about it but really, this power supply won't see a system that uses more than 150 watts.



                  Secondary capacitors are all Nicon and KME, 1000uF 10v or 16v. I thought for a few minutes if I should replace them but in the end, it's not really worth using good capacitors on such a psu and the current ones look OK.

                  Attached Files

                  Comment

                  • momaka
                    master hoarder
                    • May 2008
                    • 12175
                    • Bulgaria

                    #10
                    Re: Another Delux 500w psu

                    Originally posted by mariushm
                    Took out the rectifier for the 3.3v and it turns out it's a 20A 45v max rated part, so I won't gain much, just 4 amps.
                    You won't gain anything if you even tried that, because that rectifier would have likely shorted on the 12V rail. Most half-bridge PSUs require the 12V rectifier to have at least a 60V rating (because the rectifier itself will be seeing 2 x 12V plus some more from inductive spikes). Also needs to be of the fast-recovery type. Schottky don't always have as fast of a recovery time as do fast rectifiers, so this tends to limit what you can put on the 12V rail output of a H-bridge PSU.

                    Originally posted by mariushm
                    especially considering modern computers use 12v a lot.
                    They do. But if you have a modest system, it's enough. The most I've ran on a 16A rectifier in a H-bridge PSU was an AMD Athlon 64 FX-57 (a 105W TDP CPU) and a Radeon 9700 (pulls around 45W at full load mostly from 3.3/5V rails combined). Or an Athlon 64 3200+ and GeForce 9800GT setup might have been more power hungry, I don't know. But both ran well and PSU was nowhere near overloaded.

                    Comment

                    Related Topics

                    Collapse

                    • PantherDave
                      Microsoft Surface Pro (5th gen) model 1796 - no power
                      by PantherDave
                      Hi all!

                      I'm trying to troubleshoot a Microsoft Surface Pro (5th gen) model 1796 that won't power on. Motherboard model is M1007506-015. My priority is retrieving data, but the SSD is integrated so it looks like if I can't repair it it'll need to go to a data recovery company. I've done a little basic board repair before, but nothing this advanced until now. So please forgive my ignorance in advance. 😅

                      I found the boardview for this laptop in the forums here, and am able to open it on my PC with FlexBV.
                      https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...-hardware-devi...
                      05-29-2024, 02:01 PM
                    • tvguy12012012120
                      Zombie Samsung UN55NU6900F dead / no standby voltage - randomly came to life after hours of troubleshooting then died
                      by tvguy12012012120
                      This is my first attempt at troubleshooting a board like this, I know I could just buy a new board but I'm curious to figure out how this works. I've been testing different components in the evenings this week and I think the problem is with the IC failing to start up for some reason. When the board is plugged in there is no standby voltage.

                      Then today it randomly sprung to life like a zombie but shortly died thereafter. I have no idea why it would have done that and its the first time I've seen it running. I discharged capacitors on the board last night, then it was sitting today....
                      02-07-2025, 05:13 PM
                    • rabbituk
                      Sony HCD BX7700dbi CMT flashing standby
                      by rabbituk
                      I have got a Sony HCD-BX7700dbi that isn't worth a lot but I'm keen to learn how to repair and would appreciate some help with my train of thought. The protection circuit is kicking in and the standby light is blinking. It goes into protection mode within a second of powering it on.

                      So far the relay on the power board that enables the main transformer clicks on and then off when powering on the unit. Looking at the schematics, the permanently enabled power rail called 'unreg sub' provides about 13.5VDC. Where the power comes into the main board on connector CN303, there is a diode...
                      02-11-2025, 05:05 PM
                    • asr
                      Finding replacement diode iPad Pro 3rd gen A1701
                      by asr
                      Hello, I am looking for help to replace a damaged diode. The tristar was replaced and a diode was damaged in the process. I have a picture of the diode but dont have an exact donor. I mostly have macbooks for donors and only a few ipad and iphone boards. Diode part number: DSF01S30SCAP
                      Im not sure where to find the ipad board number. Anybody have an idea where else this diode is used on other boards? Thanks....
                      07-09-2024, 06:24 PM
                    • bgilmer
                      Samsung TV UN55KS8000 dead - bad diode
                      by bgilmer
                      I wanted to post about my successful repair of a dead Samsung TV.
                      Model: UN55KS8000
                      Power Supply Circuit Board Number: BN44-00878A
                      Part required: SB5150 Schottky diode 150V 5A


                      Symptoms:
                      Powered TV on with remote control. Briefly (less than one second), saw video, then TV went dark.
                      - Not working at all
                      - No red LED
                      - No standby power
                      - Will not power on

                      Attempted reboot:
                      - Initially unplugged TV for about 20 seconds and plugged it back in (This has fixed this TV in the past when it was unresponsive.) Did not...
                      07-24-2022, 12:04 PM
                    • Loading...
                    • No more items.
                    Working...