Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

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  • domas
    News Hater
    • May 2013
    • 323
    • Denmark

    #21
    Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

    Originally posted by quattro alex
    I've just tested the diodes and found D5 (UF1007) to be shorted ( I get a reading in both directions). Should I replace with the same or go up a notch?

    Also can you confirm what you mean by switchers please?

    I managed to get around 330v at Q6 but not Q5 does this help at all?

    Yes I am very much a fan of AWD and I am on some of the car forums. But if you want to make the most of that system you need the right rubber... Dunlop wintersport 3D's when it gets cold enough
    +1 on Behemots post.

    Switchers = primary transistors on primary heatsink (HV or hot side )

    I don't see the diode you are talking about as i am in rush right now, but desolder it and check it again for accurate reading. I would just replace it with similar value, from, lets say, another scrap SMPS. But please do check components around to make sure it doesn't destroy same components again after powering up.


    //unrelated:
    okay so i was right )
    i use nokian hkpl R for winter driving ) does the job.

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    • Behemot
      Badcaps Legend
      • Dec 2009
      • 4845
      • CZ

      #22
      Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

      Oh, I looked again and find the diode. So it has been already removed and tested out-of-circuit it seems? Than it's definitelly bad if it reads open.
      Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry! Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts

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      • quattro alex
        Senior Member
        • Mar 2012
        • 92
        • UK

        #23
        Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

        Originally posted by domas
        +1 on Behemots post.

        Switchers = primary transistors on primary heatsink (HV or hot side )

        I don't see the diode you are talking about as i am in rush right now, but desolder it and check it again for accurate reading. I would just replace it with similar value, from, lets say, another scrap SMPS. But please do check components around to make sure it doesn't destroy same components again after powering up.


        //unrelated:
        okay so i was right )
        i use nokian hkpl R for winter driving ) does the job.
        Thanks for the heads up on the "switchers" I'll take that heat sink out and test them on the DCA55.

        Originally posted by Behemot
        Oh, I looked again and find the diode. So it has been already removed and tested out-of-circuit it seems? Than it's definitelly bad if it reads open.
        Yes, I've got it out of circuit to be sure, but it reads shorted rather than open. Thanks for checking
        Fixed so far: GNR TS902W monitor, Sony Game Gear, Philips FCD565, Arcam Alpha 10, Memorex SA 404amp

        Comment

        • Behemot
          Badcaps Legend
          • Dec 2009
          • 4845
          • CZ

          #24
          Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

          For diode open means shorted. Good diode is closed from one side (unless it's zener), allowing current to pass only in one direction And even in such condition there is voltage drop. Open diode has the P-N barrier broken so it behaves like conductor.

          But not always it just opens - sometimes it burns so hard it interrupts the path internally. Usually LEDs die this way.
          Last edited by Behemot; 11-10-2013, 07:49 AM.
          Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry! Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts

          Exclusive caps, meters and more!
          Hardware Insights - power supply reviews and more!

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          • quattro alex
            Senior Member
            • Mar 2012
            • 92
            • UK

            #25
            Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

            Originally posted by Behemot
            For diode open means shorted. Good diode is closed from one side (unless it's zener), allowing current to pass only in one direction And even in such condition there is voltage drop. Open diode has the P-N barrier broken so it behaves like conductor.

            But not always it just opens - sometimes it burns so hard it interrupts the path internally. Usually LEDs die this way.
            Replacing the diode at D5 was all it took in the end to get this up and running. Thank you to everyone's input in getting this up and running.

            Next up I have a Corsair 520w that keeps cutting out on the psu tester, and I have a Goodmans Tv with a burnt connector to the backlight lamps.
            Fixed so far: GNR TS902W monitor, Sony Game Gear, Philips FCD565, Arcam Alpha 10, Memorex SA 404amp

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