TR2-430NP Problem or normal?

[woodscroller]

System Specs:

Thermaltake TR2-430NP
Gigabyte GA-M61P-S3
Athlon 64 X2 4200+ Windsor
EVGA GeForce 8600 GTS 512MB PCIe x16
OCZ DDR2 1066 4GB Kit (2x2GB)
2x 250GB Seagate HDD
1x 500GB Seagate HDD
1x Liteon 22x DVD RW

Gigabyte Bad Caps - misdiagnosis?

<lead-in>
+/- 3 weeks ago, my system started displaying erratic behavior. I had just swithced from Ubuntu to Debian and chalked up the freezing to my Ubuntu-tard inexperience with Debian. Finally, I started looking into hardware causes. Reseating ram seemed to solve the problem - only temporarily. Problems became more erratic with sudden, complete shutdowns. System able to post, boot into OS but short lived (+/- 5 minutes) finally to where pushing the power button multiple times was the only way to get the system turned on. As if, it would only start after caps/electronics charged up (for lack of better understanding how to describe it)

Initially, noticed two bulged caps near the cpu, one clearly vented.

I pounded google trying to diagnose/confirm my suspicion it was the mobo alone. Removing GPU, ram, and power to mobo. The whistle/noise remained until I took power from the mobo.. Did put my ear next to PSU and could hear no sound. Thought this confirmed my diagnosis... but now, after more reading, I'm no longer convinced.

Now that I have a replacement mobo enroute, I begin cleaning up the box.
</lead-in>


<PSU specific>
Pulled PSU to clean it. After cleaning, I plugged it in, and hear a whistle (maybe a hum) from it, GREAT! Research suggest it too could be bad caps or a transformer hum. Try using a straw to zone into the culprit but not sure of the result. It [the sound] appears to be coming from between the two heat sinks. There's two ceramic caps (blue in color), two Electrolytic Capacitors (black), a transformer and many smaller electronic components (resistors, etc) in the area. BTW, no caps appear to be swollen, bulged tops or electrolyte leakeage (top or bottom)

Next, I checked the voltage output of the PSU. 3.3V (3.7V measured) and 5V (5.4V measured). 12V +&- are slightly lower @ 11.78V. Checked voltage with power on jumped and a small case fan plugged in.

With no load on the PSU, power on not jumped, the sound is what might be described as a leaking cap (air escaping). It may be psychosomatic and only be a hum though *shruggs*. If I turn the switch off, the sound goes up in tone/frequency steadily and stops (1-3 seconds) abruptly.

With the power on circuit jumped and an old case fan plugged in, the sound is still there but it's different. In fact, it acts like a wave; meaning, the tone/frequency goes up and down (think wave form on an oscope). I guess I didn't hear this before cause of the cpu, hdd and case fans. Then again, maybe it's a recent thing and is the reason my system became unstable... eventually, unusable. Too, perhaps this is from almost zero load on the PSU, comparatively, to what is there when the system is together (mobo, ram, gpu, 3 hdd's, dvd drive, mouse, keyboard).
</PSU specific>


<Questions>
Did I give enough info to help diagnose the situation?

Does it appear that blaming the motherboard was premature or not, in whole, correct?

Is the sound now heard from the PSU, normal, for such a low-grade PSU? (just read the review on it from hardware secrets)

</Questions>


Final thoughts:

Thanks if you've read this far and/or have time to assist!

Any suggestions, recommendations, request for specific info, or chastisement; will be welcome.

~Steve

PS. Lucky for me, a fellow LUG member let me borrom an old emachine with a single core 64bit and 256mb ram. We did upgrade the ram for him by adding a 1GB stick from a local computer repair shop. Have much more appreciation for my old, pre-death-bed system now!

[cheapie]

Re: TR2-430NP Problem or normal?

Any bulged or leaking caps on the motherboard, especially on vcore like you said, need to be changed, and WILL cause that problem. They may have failed on their own, or the power supply may have put out so much ripple that they were overstressed.

The noise ("coil whine") from the power supply is most likely from no load (on the 5VSB in the first case. 5VSB is on even without PS_ON jumpered), or in the test with the fan, much lower load than it's designed for. Switching power supplies like to have at least 5% or so load.

Now, for your questions:

1. Yes. You provided a lot of information. I would like know more about that power supply though (what brand and model is it, what brand(s) of caps are in it). Also, make sure that none of the smaller ones near the output wires are bulged.

2. It does appear to be a problem with the motherboard, but the problem may have been caused in part by the PSU.

3. It is normal for some PSUs to make that sort of noise with low or no load.

[woodscroller]

Re: TR2-430NP Problem or normal?

1- The power supply in question is a Thermaltake TR2-430W (TR2-430NP) and in service since October of '07. Most of the Aluminum caps are marked TEAPO (most are green with a brownish stripe, a few are maroon/burgandy with a gray stripe. The two I mentioned in the OP, I can't make out a brand/rating at all. These two are black with a blue stripe, the vent are a + pattern. The light-blue ceramic caps, I'm unable to see any markings on them at all. Sorry but, my hearing is better than my vision. FWIW, there are two 600uf x 200V capXcon's also.

<edited> The two I couldn't make out appear now to be suscons? 4.7uf x 50V.? Had to break out the magnifying glass and a flash light.

I've looked the PCB over and don't 'see' any bulging, vented or leaking caps... anywhere. Even behind the output wires. From the reading I've done though, that's not solid evidence problem caps don't exist in this PSU.



2- Naturally, I hope it's only the motherboard. Would hate for this PSU to kill the replacement.

3- Thats somewhat comforting for a, now, mildly paranoid fellow... thinking I jumped the gun in diagnosing. My not having an electronics lab, test bench and fancy tools (barely able to spell electronics), one may understand the paranoia.


Appreciate your time, Cheapie!

~Steve

[momaka]

Re: TR2-430NP Problem or normal?

I have a Thermaltake TR2-430W as well, but I don't recall mine whistling or making high-pitched noises except when I shut it off from the back (only then it makes a high-pitched noise for a second). I do have other PSUs that whine/whistle, though (but that's normal for them).

Now, one thing to know about the TR2-430W power supply is that it uses a 2-transistor self-oscillating 5VSB circuit. I don't remember, however, if this particular PSU had a "critical" 5VSB cap or not as I opened mine a while ago. The reason we call this 5VSB cap "critical" is because the 5VSB designs that use it can have catastrophic effects on the mother if that cap fails (usually it destroys the SB). So while you're at it, check the 5VSB rail with a multimeter to see what voltage it gives you. If it's anywhere over 5% of the nominal 5V value, you may want to change that "critical" cap, if your PSU has it. Or better yet, open the PSU and check if it has one. It's usually rated for 25V or 50V, and 10uF, 22uF, or 47uF and close to the small transformer. If you post pictures, I should be able to point it out. Or I can check mine, but that might take a while as I have to dig out the computer in which that PSU is in.

[woodscroller]

Re: TR2-430NP Problem or normal?

Was about to retire for the evening but wanted to respond before doing so.

I appreciate the information, Momaka. No need to dig out your machine - though the thought is certainly appreciated!

Will post back tomorrow for sure and I'll post pictures after work. Will also try to find a schematic and/or locate this critical cap you mention...

To clarify, by 5VSB, do you mean at the motherboard connector or inside the PSU itself?

Again, thanks for the additional information!

~Namaste
Steve

[kaboom]

Re: TR2-430NP Problem or normal?

Was about to retire for the evening but wanted to respond before doing so.

I appreciate the information, Momaka. No need to dig out your machine - though the thought is certainly appreciated!

Will post back tomorrow for sure and I'll post pictures after work. Will also try to find a schematic and/or locate this critical cap you mention...

To clarify, by 5VSB, do you mean at the motherboard connector or inside the PSU itself?

Again, thanks for the additional information!

~Namaste
Steve

You can simply unplug the ATX connector from the MB and check with a voltmeter. It's the purple wire. Unplug the PS before messing around inside. Connect your meter and then plug in/switch on the power supply.

[cheapie]

Re: TR2-430NP Problem or normal?

I was just browsing Hardware Secrets, and I saw this. Look at the bottom of the page. That power supply looks familiar, doesn't it?

[dmill89]

Re: TR2-430NP Problem or normal?

I was just browsing Hardware Secrets, and I saw this. Look at the bottom of the page. That power supply looks familiar, doesn't it?

Yes, if I remember correctly the TR2-430NP is a absolutely ancient, rebadged HEC design.

[Pentium4]

Re: TR2-430NP Problem or normal?

I improved one quite a bit in another thread, I use it in my Linux router. It's fine for a low load computer as long as you're fine with the terrible efficiency, mine gets around 75% but it's a low load

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...5&postcount=27

It will do 350W but will heat up the room

[momaka]

Re: TR2-430NP Problem or normal?

You can simply unplug the ATX connector from the MB and check with a voltmeter. It's the purple wire. Unplug the PS before messing around inside. Connect your meter and then plug in/switch on the power supply.

^ What he said.
Also, forgot to mention that if the output cap on 5VSB is bad, that could cause the PSU whining noises as well. I had 2 PSUs that used 2-transistor 5VSB designs, and both did this when their output caps for the 5VSB failed. Changing the output caps on 5VSB fixed the issue right away.

It's fine for a low load computer as long as you're fine with the terrible efficiency, mine gets around 75% but it's a low load

75% isn't all that bad. The design of this PSU is single transistor forward without any PFC. Simple but reliable.

[Pentium4]

Re: TR2-430NP Problem or normal?

Very true, it could be worse. reliable indeed, that's why it's in my server now

[woodscroller]

Re: TR2-430NP Problem or normal?

I have a Thermaltake TR2-430W as well, but I don't recall mine whistling or making high-pitched noises except when I shut it off from the back (only then it makes a high-pitched noise for a second). I do have other PSUs that whine/whistle, though (but that's normal for them).

Now, one thing to know about the TR2-430W power supply is that it uses a 2-transistor self-oscillating 5VSB circuit. I don't remember, however, if this particular PSU had a "critical" 5VSB cap or not as I opened mine a while ago. The reason we call this 5VSB cap "critical" is because the 5VSB designs that use it can have catastrophic effects on the mother if that cap fails (usually it destroys the SB). So while you're at it, check the 5VSB rail with a multimeter to see what voltage it gives you. If it's anywhere over 5% of the nominal 5V value, you may want to change that "critical" cap, if your PSU has it. Or better yet, open the PSU and check if it has one. It's usually rated for 25V or 50V, and 10uF, 22uF, or 47uF and close to the small transformer. If you post pictures, I should be able to point it out. Or I can check mine, but that might take a while as I have to dig out the computer in which that PSU is in.

My apologies for not following up yesterday. Didn't finish the job and wound up staying over-night since it was out of town work. Also, the batteries in my camera are dead but, I snagged one from hardware secrets review and drew a green arrow to the one I think you're referring to.

I did however, check the voltage on pin #9. It starts around 6.14V and begins to decline. After +/- 90 seconds, it dropped to 5.72V and acted as if it would continue to drop... only slower.

Image attached but, here's a link to the review page where I swiped the image from:
Thermaltake-Purepower-430W-NP-Power-Supply-Review

You can simply unplug the ATX connector from the MB and check with a voltmeter. It's the purple wire. Unplug the PS before messing around inside. Connect your meter and then plug in/switch on the power supply.

The computer had been disassembled already. So, I plugged a sata drive and a case fan to it. That's when I pulled the measurements mentioned above. I appreciate the assistance!

I was just browsing Hardware Secrets, and I saw this. Look at the bottom of the page. That power supply looks familiar, doesn't it?

lol *cough* IIRC, I had even read their review of this power supply... and still bought it anyway! Hindsight... yadda yadda!

Yes, if I remember correctly the TR2-430NP is a absolutely ancient, rebadged HEC design.

Mine has worked out alright up till recently. I blindly added 2 more sata drives and began using dual monitors without given the PSU a second thought.... until now!

^ What he said.
Also, forgot to mention that if the output cap on 5VSB is bad, that could cause the PSU whining noises as well. I had 2 PSUs that used 2-transistor 5VSB designs, and both did this when their output caps for the 5VSB failed. Changing the output caps on 5VSB fixed the issue right away.


75% isn't all that bad. The design of this PSU is single transistor forward without any PFC. Simple but reliable.

Gotcha. Thank you, again!

[woodscroller]

Re: TR2-430NP Problem or normal?

A follow-up to my last post. Rereading momaka's reply, they mention specs for the 'self-oscilating 5VSB' of...

It's usually rated for 25V or 50V, and 10uF, 22uF, or 47uF and close to the small transformer

Looked back at one of my other post (#3) and I give these details...

<edited> The two I couldn't make out appear now to be suscons? 4.7uf x 50V.? Had to break out the magnifying glass and a flash light.

Now, I'm not certain of getting the brand name (suscon) correct, but, those values posted, I can make out much better than the brand name.

The image I show above, they are not visible in it. They are located between the heatsink (bottom of image) and the larger of the two transformers this PSU has in it.

When trying to locate, with use of a straw, the area from where the sound was coming, that's where it 'seemed' to be coming from. The sound was definately strongest in this area (two radial caps and two blue ceramic caps) - I'm just not convinced enough to say which one was more suspect.

Also, in this general vicinity there are two blue ceramic caps. I guess there called ceramic caps... that's what google suggest, at least.

I appreciate the help folks! My replacement motherboard came in today (newegg rocks on shipping/service) and I'm leary of plugging this PSU into it.

[momaka]

Re: TR2-430NP Problem or normal?

I did however, check the voltage on pin #9. It starts around 6.14V and begins to decline. After +/- 90 seconds, it dropped to 5.72V and acted as if it would continue to drop... only slower.
...
My replacement motherboard came in today (newegg rocks on shipping/service) and I'm leary of plugging this PSU into it.

Good thinking.
With 6V on 5VSB (the purple wire), it's only a matter of time before it gets worse and kills your (now) new motherboard. The cap you pointed to with the green arrow is exactly the "critical" cap I was referring to. It needs to be changed in order for the 5VSB circuit to resume normal operation.

You got the name of the cap right, too - it's Su'scon. They aren't terrible but aren't good either. If you plan to buy new cap(s) to fix the PSU, you may as well change the other ones too. The upgrade will make this power supply nearly bullet-proof. Just write down information for all of the caps and post it here so we can help you pick replacements. Basically, write down the name of the cap, the series (2 to 3 letter code), capacitance (uF), voltage (V), and diameter of the can (in millimeters).

The green (with gold stripe) Teapo caps are probably SC. Just need to know the voltage, capacitance, and diameter and I can already suggest replacements. I'll try to get to my TR2-430NP to check what caps it has so I can help you pick replacements.

**EDIT**
Just confirmed from this thread that the 5VSB critical cap is indeed 4.7uF 50V.

[woodscroller]

Re: TR2-430NP Problem or normal?

Good thinking.
With 6V on 5VSB (the purple wire), it's only a matter of time before it gets worse and kills your (now) new motherboard. The cap you pointed to with the green arrow is exactly the "critical" cap I was referring to. It needs to be changed in order for the 5VSB circuit to resume normal operation.

OK, the Su-scon's aren't the one you're talking about. The one pointed to in my image is a teapo, 10uf, 50V. Other writing I can read are 'A3', 'T2' (these two are on the same row/line), and '0407' - I'm better with imperial measurements but if I had to guess, this one is 8.5mm. if you were to take 3-4 #2 pencil leads held together, that'd be about the size. Will dig around the web for a printable mm ruler, print it and glue it to an old mini-blind slat.

...Just write down information for all of the caps and post it here so we can help you pick replacements. Basically, write down the name of the cap, the series (2 to 3 letter code), capacitance (uF), voltage (V), and diameter of the can (in millimeters).

Bare with me on this, I'll need/want to take the PCB out without destroying anything so I can maybe get a better vantage point on some of them!

The green (with gold stripe) Teapo caps are probably SC. Just need to know the voltage, capacitance, and diameter and I can already suggest replacements. I'll try to get to my TR2-430NP to check what caps it has so I can help you pick replacements.

Google suggest that 'SC' likely stands for switching capacitor? Also, don't (on my account alone) go digging stuff out of the closet or your spare parts pile.

**EDIT**
Just confirmed from this thread that the 5VSB critical cap is indeed 4.7uF 50V.

Looking at this thread, this image specifically, shows the 2 radial su-scon's rated at 4.7uf - 50V. They're the ones at the bottom left.

Although I did take a BE&E course, it's been nearly 20 years ago. Reading a plethora of threads here on BadCaps, tells me I've got a lot to learn with terminology... particuarlly the difference in X and Y caps.

Going to a local computer repair shop tomorrow. Guy says he has some Dell PSU's that may fit my case. May just buy case/PSU together if not. But, I definately want to check the PSU before leaving with it... Should I only be concerned with the 5VSB? or all voltages? Are all voltage ratings to be +/- 5% as you detailed for the 5VSB?

[momaka]

Re: TR2-430NP Problem or normal?

OK, the Su-scon's aren't the one you're talking about. The one pointed to in my image is a teapo, 10uf, 50V.

Just cracked my unit open and checked... The critical cap is 10uF 50V, not 4.7uF as I previously mentioned. Mine is Su'scon SK, but that doesn't matter. Researching the Su'scon SK series shows that it's a general purpose capacitor so just about any reputable Japanese capacitor brand will make the 5VSB of this PSU rock-stable. I usually use Panasonic (FC or FR series) and Nichicon (PW and PM series) for these smaller caps.

So, to clarify...

Just confirmed from this thread that the 5VSB critical cap is indeed 4.7uF 50V.

^ This information is wrong. Critical cap is 10uF 50V. Standard 5 mm diameter by 11 mm height.

Will dig around the web for a printable mm ruler, print it and glue it to an old mini-blind slat.

No need anymore. I already took the specs of all of the caps in my PSU. The brands may be slightly different, but the specs of the caps should be more or less the same. Just for future reference, I am going to post them here:

Outputs (but not 5VSB)
2x DON TM, 10V, 1000 uF, 8 mm dia. (3.3V rail??)
2x Su'scon SC, 6.3V 2200 uF, 10 mm dia. (5V rail??)
1x Teapo SC, 16V 2200 uF, 10 mm dia. (12V rail for sure)
1x Su'scon SC, 6.3V, 1000 uF, 8 mm dia. (-5V rail likely)
1x Teapo SC, ?? V ?? uF, 8 mm dia. (couldn't see the specs of this one)
1x Su'scon SK, 16V, 470 uF, 8 mm dia. (-12V rail likely)

Outputs (5VSB)
1x Su'scon SC, 6.3V 2200 uF, 10 mm dia.
1x Teapo SC, 16V 330 uF, 8 mm dia.

Google suggest that 'SC' likely stands for switching capacitor?

No, that's just the name of the series. Each capacitor has a brand and a series. It's just like with cars: you have brand and a model. Different series of capacitors have different properties. Here is the data sheet for Teapo SC, for example.

There are two important specs when picking a replacement capacitor besides the voltage and the capacitance. These are the ripple current and the ESR (or sometimes the impedance if ESR is not mentioned in data sheet).

When picking replacement capacitor, you make sure the ESR (or the impedance) of the new cap is the same or lower than the one you are replacing (but don't go orders of magnitude lower unless you really have no other choice).

As for the ripple current, it has to be the same or higher than the original cap.

Now just a sidenote here: general purpose caps almost never mention ESR or impedance. So in that case, just go by ripple current.

Also, don't (on my account alone) go digging stuff out of the closet or your spare parts pile.

It's no problem. I was curious myself anyways. Mostly because so far I haven't seen a case of anyone reporting these PSUs with going high on the 5VSB rail. Now that there is one case (yours), that means I'll probably be taking some preventative measures and recapping mine before the 5VSB does that.

I also felt a little nostalgic about the computer that this PSU was in - it was my first "personal" computer that I built myself (with help from a friend) . So I kind of felt like taking it out.

Looking at this thread, this image specifically, shows the 2 radial su-scon's rated at 4.7uf - 50V. They're the ones at the bottom left.

Yup, mine has them too. They aren't all that important, though (at least no as much as the "critical" 5VSB cap).

Although I did take a BE&E course, it's been nearly 20 years ago. Reading a plethora of threads here on BadCaps, tells me I've got a lot to learn with terminology...

No worries, you'll do fine. If you stick for a while, you'll probably know more than most EE students that just studied EE for the degree itself.

particuarlly the difference in X and Y caps.

My explanation here won't be very scientific here... but here it goes:
X caps are the square ones with all of the safety agency approvals on them. Usually placed between Live and Neutral to reduce EMI. Y caps are the shiny ceramic ones. The difference between a regular ceramic cap and a Y cap is that Y caps always have safety agency logos on them (if they don't, beware! - cheap PSUs use non-safety rated 1 KV ceramic caps that look like Y caps very often).

Going to a local computer repair shop tomorrow. Guy says he has some Dell PSU's that may fit my case. May just buy case/PSU together if not.

Good choice there. Stock Dell PSUs are quite solid (usually built by Delta, HiPro, or LiteOn). Just beware of one particular PSU - the Bestec ATX-250 12E. This one has the same problem that you have with this PSU right now, except that it's even worse and always ends up killing the motherboard. Older Dells don't use Bestec, but I'm just throwing this out there in case someone before you has swapped it. The Bestecs are usually found in Emachines and Acers. Possibly HPs too.

Also, make sure it's not out of a Pentium II or Pentium 3 -based Dell because those had proprietary PSUs. The PSU itself will fit, but the wires on the connector are wired differently and can cause major havoc.

But, I definately want to check the PSU before leaving with it... Should I only be concerned with the 5VSB? or all voltages? Are all voltage ratings to be +/- 5% as you detailed for the 5VSB?

Yes, usually all voltages are to be within +/- 5%, except 12V and -12V rails which can go 10% IIRC. Keep in mind, though, that a PSU can have perfectly "in-spec" voltages yet still output tons of ripple, causing the computer to behave erratically or not boot at all. This is often the result of bad caps on the output of the PSU.

[woodscroller]

Re: TR2-430NP Problem or normal?

Grateful for all you've elaborated on, Momaka!

My trip to the repair shop (thank goodness I was coming into town already), turned out to be a dud. Within minutes of my walking into the shop, the (I presume) owner starts volunteering how they don't sell stolen stuff and bragging that he's a certified dell repair center... blah blah. My intuition meter was on high alert.

So, my immediate course of action is to research decent power supplies that'll not break the bank. Don't want to continue testing my fellow LUG members patience by not getting my system up and returning his old emachine dev system. The two calculators I've used, one linked from hardware secrets and newegg's, suggest I need a psu capable of +/- 425W. Had my eyes on a Corsair CX600 v2.3 but, the lack of professional reviews makes me leary.

[woodscroller]

Re: TR2-430NP Problem or normal?

Just pulled the trigger on a SeaSonic S12II. More money than I wanted to spend but, if nothing has been learnt through my reading threads here and reviews at hardware secrets, it's that you best pony up to the bar when it comes to PSU's.

I vow to steer this thread back on-topic soon by pulling the pcb out of my thermaltake and inventory the components and put up some pics too. Speaking of which, I must confess something. The problems I had may have been self-inflicted. See, I'm a smoker. The fans on the PSU were gosh-awful caked with dust and nicotine.

With the confession out of the way, can I clean the PCB with an electrical contact cleaner without damaging the PCB or any of the components on it?

[kaboom]

Re: TR2-430NP Problem or normal?

With the confession out of the way, can I clean the PCB with an electrical contact cleaner without damaging the PCB or any of the components on it?

Having cleaned my share of smoke/residue covered electronics, I'll give you some tips.

Provided that the main filter caps have discharged, there's nothing from keeping you from washing that board.

You're going to find that the contact cleaner either doesn't remove it all, or it'll leave a residue.

First, remove the board, fan, everything from the case.
Get some Simple Green or a citrus-based cleaner. Spray it on- soak it well.
Leave it for 10-15 minutes, then rinse it with the hottest water you can keep your hand in.

Repeat this several times, then dry in front of a fan for no less than 10 hours. After that, put it outside in the sun for an afternoon. Put it in front of the fan again, for a day.

You want to dry everything out, and remove moisture trapped under caps, ICs, etc. The transformers will be fine.

For the fan in the PS, you'll be be able to remove a split washer holding the impeller. You can then remove, clean, and re-oil the fan. Reuse the split washer for reassembly.



Extreme grime calls for extreme cleaning.

[woodscroller]

Re: TR2-430NP Problem or normal?

Provided that the main filter caps have discharged, there's nothing from keeping you from washing that board.

IIRC, this duration is measured in seconds/minutes, yes? Should I double check something with my volt meter? It's not been connected to power for over 24 hours now and I'll likely not clean it until Friday/Saturday.

You're going to find that the contact cleaner either doesn't remove it all, or it'll leave a residue.

First, remove the board, fan, everything from the case.
Get some Simple Green or a citrus-based cleaner. Spray it on- soak it well.
Leave it for 10-15 minutes, then rinse it with the hottest water you can keep your hand in.

Repeat this several times, then dry in front of a fan for no less than 10 hours. After that, put it outside in the sun for an afternoon. Put it in front of the fan again, for a day.

You want to dry everything out, and remove moisture trapped under caps, ICs, etc. The transformers will be fine.

I'd stumbled upon Topcats post "Attn Smokers" and read some folks warning of the transformers getting wet and damage ensuing. Perhaps more was read into it than exist in reality.

edited - Just read through that thread again (using CTRL+F 'power supply') and see Topcat repeat what you said about not damaging the transformer as long as you dry it out well. I'll be certain to do just that! Thanks man.

For the fan in the PS, you'll be be able to remove a split washer holding the impeller. You can then remove, clean, and re-oil the fan. Reuse the split washer for reassembly.

Didn't notice a split washer but, did pull the rubber cover and add a drop of 3-in-1 oil. Assumed they were just pressed in - thanks for that tip!

Extreme grime calls for extreme cleaning.

INDEED! Thanks for the details, Kaboom!