The UL number leads to Coolmax's own, so I can't tell an OEM. Anybody here have any experience with Coolmax PSU's? If so, tell your experience and model number please 
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Re: Coolmax PSU's. Brand to avoid?
Coolmax 400w. I purchased three and within 18 months all three went bad. I have had much better luck with no-name brands. I only purchase ps that have the 120mm bb fan on the side. The ones with the 80mm fans don't circulate the air evenly and if they have two fans, the horizontal fan goes bad within the first year. That is my experience. -
Re: Coolmax PSU's. Brand to avoid?
Coolmax PSUs are junk and best avoided, everyone I know who has used them has had problems.Comment
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Re: Coolmax PSU's. Brand to avoid?
The V-series are made by Sun Pro. Avoid them. I don't know much about the others, but the general opinion of them seems to be to avoid them too.I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!
No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards
Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium
Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 ProComment
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Re: Coolmax PSU's. Brand to avoid?
Pick them up free as dead scrap, replace fan, caps, and transistors if fried, then run them at up to 2/5ths rated capacity... that's about all they're good for.Comment
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Re: Coolmax PSU's. Brand to avoid?
Coolmax M-500B
I put this supply in a computer I built for my mother in early 2010. This is the build:
ASUS M4A78LT-M LE
MSI N250GTS Twin Frozr 1G
AMD Phenom II X4 925
It ran this computer without a problem. However after learning a lot about capacitors from this forum I did a preemptive recap a couple of months ago. I like that it had a 140mm fan instead of the normal 120mm. I dislike the short connector leads. It is definitely not the best supply around but it is far from the worst I have seen. If I had known then, what I know now, I probably would not have bought it, however I felt it was good enough to keep using it after a recap.
Edit:
Fan is only a 120mmAttached FilesLast edited by LDSisHere; 02-03-2013, 06:10 PM.Comment
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Re: Coolmax PSU's. Brand to avoid?
^ That's a 500W PSU? It only has 560uF input capacitors in a half bridge configuration... I think 300W continuous is a more realistic limit for it (maybe 350W at the most?), even with an 140mm fan...Comment
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Re: Coolmax PSU's. Brand to avoid?
You may be correct in your assessment of its' real capability, all I know is what it has powered without any problems. Since it worked well for almost three years with crap caps I figured it would run that many or more with good ones. Time will tell.Comment
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Re: Coolmax PSU's. Brand to avoid?
I think Hardware Secrets did a review on the V-500. 300W was about the limit IIRC.I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!
No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards
Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium
Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 ProComment
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Re: Coolmax PSU's. Brand to avoid?
I think I was mistaken about it being a 140mm fan, the Coolmax site says it has a 120mm. I must have confused it with another supply, I have been looking at a lot of them lately.Comment
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Re: Coolmax PSU's. Brand to avoid?
An 120mm fan is still certainly better than an 80mm fan. But...
Look at the review...
Link...
It cannot even get up to 200W with the ripple in spec; 160W seems to be its limit. It originally used JEE and Sapcon capacitors on the secondary and Tongjia capacitors on the primary so the fact that you recapped it with Japanese capacitors helps, though I'm not sure how much...Comment
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Re: Coolmax PSU's. Brand to avoid?
I am not sure just how similar those two supplies are. The V-500 in the review does not even have a bridge rectifier and the caps it uses look anemic. Like I said I most likely would not buy it knowing what I know now but it is not as pathetic as the one in the review nor a lot of other supplies I have seen.Comment
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Re: Coolmax PSU's. Brand to avoid?
True, the one in the review has 470uF input capacitors so with your larger input capacitors, bridge rectifier, and Japanese capacitors, you can probably do more (and it looks like your main switchers are TO-3P rather than TO-220 which also helps), though I still think 300W is a safe limit. If I'm not mistaken, though, your PSU doesn't have any MOVs, though I'm not sure how much that would hurt it in the long term.Last edited by Wester547; 02-03-2013, 08:41 PM.Comment
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Hello,
has anyone use these Brands of solder balls? The brand BEST writes on the label of the jar the specs of the solder balls instead of the Mechanic brand. I beleive that BEST brand must be more professional (in labeling at least) but I have never try one of them so I would like your opinion. By the way I hardly can I find the Mechanic brand in aliexpress (the only where I found was lead free solder balls) and on ebay these that I found are approximately15USD per jar. If you know any other trusted brand of solder balls please tell me.06-22-2024, 11:06 AM -
I'm doing research for work into AC sources. Besides vendors familiar to me - Chroma and California Instruments - Instek has several models that looking interesting because their price is lower.
Anyone here have experience with Instek, generally, not just AC sources? Even experience with oscilloscopes or higher end meters would give me an idea of their overall quality level.
TIA! -
Problem
This is an LG edge LED lit LCD Display. The LEDs are on the bottom edge of the display. There are 2 bars (left and right) Each bar has many LEDs and a 6 pin connector. Each pin drive several LEDs thus is the highest current flow / heat junction. The weak lead free solder gradually fails with thermal expansion/contraction cycling and increases resistance. PSU will compensate up to a point, then when the current is too high, PSU just shut down the backlight causing a dark display. I have even seen one which the connector just fell off as solder points became completely detached.... -
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Hi Folks,
Just wanted to clear up a misunderstanding of mine (or what I expect is one). Isn't the 12V rail from the 24 pin, EPS and PCIE separated? IE if I put a power resistor on the ATX 12V pin that is not going to load, thus tell me if the EPS or PCIE rails are fine?
I was recently watching ArIs from Hardware Busters video on how to properly test ATX PSUs without using 5 figure Croma substations.
The PCB adapter he used breaks out the 12, 5 and 3.3V pins from the 24 pin and gives you banana plugs to connect to. That is a bit useless is it not? Aren't...
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