Please see video:
http://vimeo.com/57336606
http://vimeo.com/57336606
-
-
Re: Cooler Master Real Power Pro 850W
Connect the fan. The power supply may turn off without it.
Make sure the soldering is done right. measure the continuity between the capacitor leads and some point on the pcb next to each lead.
Test with the multimeter the 5v standby voltage and so on. -
Re: Cooler Master Real Power Pro 850W
Nope, it did the same thing when it was still put together (which is why I got it for $3) and the fan does spin for a second...
I know the soldering is good because it makes a slightly different buzzing noise when there is no cap at all.
But thanks for trying to help anyway
any more ideas?
Comment
-
Re: Cooler Master Real Power Pro 850W
5Vsb coming up fine?
Any shorts on any of the output rails?Khron's Cave - Electronics - Audio - Teardowns - Mods - Repairs - Projects - Music - Rants - ShenanigansComment
-
Re: Cooler Master Real Power Pro 850W
It's a really bad idea to run any kind of converter with no output cap. Without the cap, it has nowhere to dump the energy from each switching cycle. The ripple approaches whatever the control loop wants, so it could be 10Vp-p (0-10V) assuming a typical control loop.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
-
Re: Cooler Master Real Power Pro 850W
When I press the button the power supply tester rapidly so the psu doesn't have a chance to turn fully off the voltages fluctuate a lot (obviously because it's going on-off-on-off really fast) however they all seem fine.Comment
-
Re: Cooler Master Real Power Pro 850W
Could be because of no load -- some crappy PSUs can't start properly with no load due to lack of Vcc for controller IC.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
-
Re: Cooler Master Real Power Pro 850W
nopr,
does the same thing with two hard drives attachedComment
-
Re: Cooler Master Real Power Pro 850W
5V stand-by = the purple wire in the 24-pin ATX connector. It should be up and working the whole time the AC is plugged into the PSU, whether it's turned on or not.
+5v/ +12v = ATX standard says they should be at 5/12v, +/-5%, so 5v should be between 4.75 and 5.25v, and 12v should be between 11.4 and 12.6v, to be in spec.
If your multimeter doesn't have auto-ranging, then setting it to the 20V (or 40V?) range should be fine.
PS: I don't have a PSU tester, i do all my testing "hands-on"
As far as i can figure, any half-decently designed PSU should be stable (enough) with no load - that's what the minimum load resistors inside should be taking care of.
Plug in AC though a "bulb tester", check for 5Vsb. With active PFC's, the bulb trick doesn't work that well for "ON" testing - it's gonna light up quite well, and the voltage on the main cap(s) won't be anywhere near 380-390v DC, but for a few seconds at a time, it should do. Next step, bite the bullet and skip the series bulb
Last edited by Khron; 01-14-2013, 05:06 AM.Khron's Cave - Electronics - Audio - Teardowns - Mods - Repairs - Projects - Music - Rants - ShenanigansComment
-
Re: Cooler Master Real Power Pro 850W
Finally got around to this
purple wire is reading 4.64-4.65 fluctuating.
I think I'm reading my DMM correctly and the 5V rails and 12V rails are both shorted to ground, but I have a hard time believing that's true.
What do I check next? Thanks!Comment
-
Re: Cooler Master Real Power Pro 850W
Maybe a shorted rectifier?
EDIT, no, that can't be it. It wouldn't stay running for as long as it did if that was the case. Maybe a bad small capLast edited by c_hegge; 04-01-2013, 11:19 PM.I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!
No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards
Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium
Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 ProComment
-
Re: Cooler Master Real Power Pro 850W
which cap should I try?Comment
-
Re: Cooler Master Real Power Pro 850W
5VSB is out of spec. Primary and secondary auxiliary winding rails may have bad caps. Pictures of both sides of the PSU as well as a few high-res ones of the 5VSB area would be very useful.
What resistance measurement do you get?Last edited by momaka; 04-04-2013, 03:16 PM.Comment
-
Re: Cooler Master Real Power Pro 850W
I removed that capacitor.Comment
-
Re: Cooler Master Real Power Pro 850W
^
Don't power the PSU on with parts missing. You can damage other parts. I'm still thinking you could try replacing all of the really small caps.I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!
No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards
Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium
Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 ProComment
-
Re: Cooler Master Real Power Pro 850W
No, as you can see in the video I replsced the bad cap but it didn't help. So I just took it off.Comment
-
Re: Cooler Master Real Power Pro 850W
Try replacing the tiny vent-less caps as well.I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!
No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards
Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium
Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 ProComment
-
Re: Cooler Master Real Power Pro 850W
Nope. Not doing it. Anybody wanna buy a PSU? $7 + shipping
Comment
-
Vizio e601i-A3 - Has Sound and Display, But No Backlight - Bad Power Supply Board or Bad LED Bulbs ?I was given this TV from my great uncle. He said it just wouldn't turn on one day out of nowhere, replaced the TV, and gave it to me to possibly fix and use for myself.
Upon bringing it home and plugging it up, it showed a standby light.
I powered it on and without a flashlight, the display showed the "V" but the lighting is very dim, but visible.
The screen seems to blackout and stay black, but with a flashlight I can see the display.
With my Playstation 4 connected via HDMI, and running a game I can hear sound.
Assuming... -
Hi all!
I'm trying to troubleshoot a Microsoft Surface Pro (5th gen) model 1796 that won't power on. Motherboard model is M1007506-015. My priority is retrieving data, but the SSD is integrated so it looks like if I can't repair it it'll need to go to a data recovery company. I've done a little basic board repair before, but nothing this advanced until now. So please forgive my ignorance in advance. 😅
I found the boardview for this laptop in the forums here, and am able to open it on my PC with FlexBV.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...-hardware-devi... -
Hi all,
TL;DR - this laptop is driving me nuts with the oddball power-related behaviors. Appreciate any insight you can provide!
I'm experiencing a power issue on an Asus Probook P5440UF-XB74. Although I've worked with electronics and computers for decades, this is my first attempt at getting into motherboard-level component troubleshooting. Any help the community can provide is greatly appreciated!
A few weeks ago I was using the laptop (on battery power) for a Zoom meeting. The battery was running very low (long meeting) but I wasn't worried about... -
This is an ATX PSU rated for 550W powering 24/7 a computer load of about 200W, fed by a line-interactive 1500VA UPS. Mains is 230V.
- First issue: the PSU blew a mosfet on what I think is the active PFC boost converter, shorting its G D S pins together causing a short across the + and - lines produced by the rectifier on the 230V mains. The surge protector of the house tripped. When this happened I found that the UPS was unexpectedly disconnected from the wires of its battery. The UPS wasn't damaged, but I suspect this spontaneous detachment of a battery wire caused a condition that blew
-
The PSU's part number is: RS-620-ASAA-A1
I bought it as non working. I have checked all the caps and transistors, they look fine. But I found there is a cap missing (C49). Don't know if any of you guys has this PSU and can help me find the cap reference. Pics attached. Thanks....
Comment