So we all know the dreaded Kernal Panic on a 2010 15" and 17" DeadBook Pros. WE know its not the GPU since its the NVIDIA GT 330M series. The thing is this...I replaced the poly cap with a 330 UF capicotr on C9560 and it still kernel panics...so I am like what gives? So I decided to replaced the C9510 with another 330UF Capictor and now it kernel panics faster. So I am lost? I know its not a failing GPU because it boots fine but the moment I try to watch a YouTube video at all the computer black screens and then restarts. Checking the crash report posts towards the error KERNAL TASK. So why am I still getting Kernal panics? Maybe I am missing something?
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MEOWING IN THE IMPOSSIBLE UNIVERSE! -
Re: MacBook Pro 17" Mid 2010 Kernal Panic Issue
The 17" 2010 doesn't have the failing C9560 capacitor, it only applies to the 15" 2010.OpenBoardView — https://github.com/OpenBoardView/OpenBoardView -
Re: MacBook Pro 17" Mid 2010 Kernal Panic Issue
And why is it that the forums and other articles point to this issue that the 17" has this same issue as the 15". The GPU is identical to the 15" and uses the same poly caps as the 15" the only thing I noticed is there is two poly caps pointing to this GPU. and the Kernel Panics are identical to the 15"sigpic
MEOWING IN THE IMPOSSIBLE UNIVERSE!Comment
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Re: MacBook Pro 17" Mid 2010 Kernal Panic Issue
They're not the same cap. On 15" 2010, C9560 is a 330uF 2V tantalum, the exact same one found as C7771 on some earlier 2008/2009 models (and yes on those it applied to 17" as well). On 17" 2010, C9560 is a 220uF 2.5V tantalum, which hasn't been found to be problematic.
It could always die for sure, but this wouldn't be a common occurrence, unlike on 15".OpenBoardView — https://github.com/OpenBoardView/OpenBoardViewComment
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Re: MacBook Pro 17" Mid 2010 Kernal Panic Issue
So the Kernel Panic on this is a failed GPU then?sigpic
MEOWING IN THE IMPOSSIBLE UNIVERSE!Comment
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Hi everyone,
I'm working on a MacBook Air 2020 (A2337, board 820-02016) and running into a strange USB-C issue. I've gone through quite a bit of testing and part replacement, but I'm stuck — hoping someone here can shed some light.
🛠 Original Issue
The machine initially wouldn't negotiate 20V over USB-C — stuck at 5V.
Diagnosis showed PP1V5_UPC0_LDO_CORE shorted to ground.
I replaced U3100 (UF400) using a donor board (A2179), and the machine powers on fine now.
⚠️ New Problem: One USB-C Port Only Works in One Orientation... -
Subject: Help Needed: MacBook A1278 (3115) No PPBUS_G3H Issue
Hello everyone,
I'm working on a MacBook A1278 with the 3115 logic board and facing an issue with no PPBUS_G3H voltage. Here's what I've checked so far:- U7000 Measurements:
- Pin 3 has 0V, even though R7012 shows 16.5V from PPDCIN_S5_CHGR.
- Resistors:
- I measured R7010 and R7011 with one leg disconnected, and both tested OK.
Based on these findings, I believe U7000 needs to be replaced. However, I have a related question:- If I also decide to replace the SMC, do I need to order it pre-programmed,
- U7000 Measurements:
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Hello there
I have problem with Macbook Pro 15" 2017, model 2017, MB code 820-00928.
I bought it as broken with some artefacts on the screen, first I thought that this is problem with ribbon cable but after inspectiing ribbon cable I know it is fine. I tried to reinstall macOs and then I figured out that this must be something with GPU as installation freezes at the end (when drivers are loaded). I installed Windows and was able to install every each of drivers except GPU driver, as soon as I tried to install GPU driver - black screen and restart.
...11-21-2024, 05:25 AM -
Just like the title states. I have been confused at this point. Computer won't turn on when lid angle sensor is plugged in, when unplugged it turns on immediately, however I have tried 4 different lid angle sensors all OEM and calibrated without issue. I even pulled one from a donor computer and still nothing. I know the M1 Pro sensors are married to the board however I do know the 2019 intel are not as long as they came from a donor LCD etc. What I do not get is why is the lid angle sensor forcing the computer to not turn on, another issue I see when the lid angle sensor is disconnected...
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I have this MacBook Pro on my bench that I have already fixed, hard short on a SSD rail, but it also has another issue. the right speaker sound is either earrape, muffled or absent. Left one works perfect. I have tried replacing it, nothing changed so I'm pretty sure the issue is either motherboard related or maybe software but I doubt that.
I don't how to troubleshoot speakers. Any help would be very much appreciated.
A refurbisher and a repair shop have already been inside the laptop but I'm pretty sure none of them tried to do any soldering on the board.
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