I had to rebuild a 0.25 mm route and his pad after it has been ripped from the automatic desolder machine due to a bad profile temp
I have used a high thermal epoxy and a route kit.
thanks
It 'a few years that I perform these repairs, especially on industrial boards. To achieve this, I had to try various techniques. The main problem, if the track is detached and is not reusable, is to prepare the epoxy (letting it rest on the hot) so that the viscosity is optimal to hold the track. It is not possible to let the epoxy hardens at room temperature but should be placed in an oven at 70 degrees for a few hours.
I was also able to reconstruct damaged boards with more layers.
Hi friends, I have a Lenovo E14 Gen 2 Type 20TA laptop with serial number MJ-0GWZSZ TYPE 20TA-002CUS. Intel Core ™ i5-1135G7. It has Winbond 25R256JVEQ BIOS which has black epoxy resin. I have 2 questions. What method do you use to remove the epoxy? and the second, what chip do you use to program it if you have the TL866 II Plus programmer? Thanks in advance.
I'm looking for assistance with a Mac mini (M4, 2024), model A3238 (Model MCYT4LL/A), which I recently purchased. The front USB-C ports are not providing power.
Upon inspection, I've identified that a chip and an adjacent capacitor have been physically ripped off the logic board near the SSD connector.
Could anyone provide information on the specifications of this missing chip? Additionally, I would greatly appreciate it if anyone has access to the schematics and board view for the Mac mini A3238 logic board.
Hello
someone forced the STR (FSCQ1265RT) out and ripped the pads off
now I need to reconstruct the tracks but I dont know how it will go (no prior pics before the damage)
Attached the affected area pic, pic 2 is the best i could found online for the same area
the pins from 1 to 5 are for the STR
any help is appreciated
Thanks...
Hello, I need your advise pls ?
The black component at the center of picture is dead, I need to replace it (it's a Nikon D5 camera). It's easy to desolder with hot air. But beside, there is a chemical cap, and I don't want to destroy it.
How do you do ?
I have low melt solder and good capton. Is it better to desolder the cap (for safe) with iron, then desolder-resolder the black component with hot air ? Or these caps are strong enough and capton and other cover can avoid hot air damage ?...
Just wondering if I'm totally Fragged. I was trying to release the adhesive holding the t151 flex connector for J4900 and it ripped like paper. As far as I understand it the finger print reader is matched to the board? Is there any way to work around this?
This machine has a shorted U9080 (ELC180) which needs to be replaced.
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