I Would Like To Fix This HP Laptop, Model:15-dy5058cl

[TurcoLoco]

Hi,
I have finally received the new DC connector but didn't make a difference. The charger connector seems to go in a bit easier but otherwise exact same result.
The white LED blinks 3 thrice and then nothing.
I also measured the Resistor you mentioned (assuming I located the correct one but based on the boardview, I believe I got the right ones)
R4728 and R4729 appeared to be on the exact opposite sides of the board (please see attached images).

One thing I noticed about the charger check you had me do. I get either 0V or 6V (hard to get a reading for long as it is very difficult to keep the skinny probes on those tiny parts)
Anyhow, the 2 red wires do read 19.8V when compared to black wires. White and Yellow wires showed 4.74V when compared to black wires.
Is the brown wire supposed to show 19V too or could it be for something else?
Since the new DC port made no difference I am guessing the issue is on the board and still present?

The part in the blue box in the second screenshot is a diode, am I correct?
On Auto Range mode (default) on my multimeter, it beeped (continuity/open) when I checked that as well, is that normal?

TIA

[m1ch43lzm]

The brown wire on the DC jack cable is the middle pin on the AC adapter, it's used for telling the laptop the adapter type, example: 45W, 65W, 90W, ....
On HP, it works like this: There's a resistor that goes from 19v to the middle pin, i think it's 470K for the 45W adapter, 390K for 65W, etc; that resistor is inside the AC adapter

+19v ---/\/\/\---- middle pin

With the DC jack unplugged you should get around 19v on the brown wire, as I demonstrated before, but you shouldn't touch the probe tips with your fingers when measuring this, as your skin acts as a resistor; hold the probes by the plastic part

The red wires as you guessed are the 19v, the other 2 wires control the LEDs, one for the white LED, another for the orange LED, both LEDs are in antiparallel configuration

The 4.73K resistor on the first picture is R4700, 4.7K, it's unrelated, the 10K resistor is R4728, correct for a 45W charger, there's empty pads right next to it

I'm not sure on the second picture if that's a diode, as HP moved some parts around, it doesn't make sense as on your board, one side goes to pin 1 of the keyboard connector (+3V), and the other side goes to a thick trace that doesn't go near R4730/R4731: maybe it's an inductor/choke that supplies power to the keyboard, and there's no markings or stripe to indicate the cathode of a diode
The 100 ohm is correct, it's R4730, the "7.4ohm" in parallel with the cap C4719 should be 7.15Kohm, R4731, the 2K is R4729, you can tell by zooming in the picture where the traces go
Double check if it's 7.4K not 7.4ohm

D4703 may be located somewhere else, please provide a closer picture of the attached areas, may be one of those I marked yellow as that's different from the 0P5D boardview: also to check some parts near the charger IC

Some things to measure near the charger IC

1. ACDET, pin 6, looks like there's a test point that goes to it
2. ACIN, pin 5, or at PR1015 close to it

The laptop still powers on from battery?

[TurcoLoco]

Well, first of, I'd like you thank you for your excellent and detailed instructions (and this is coming from a noob who occasionally had trouble understanding some of the terms even)!
I really do appreciate you sticking with me through this. I learned a lot!

After going thru and re-checking all the values of components you had me check (yes, I made an error it was 7.4K Ohm), I focused on the brown wire/pin on the DC connector.
I knew it was around 6V when I initially checked it multiple times so why was it 0V now? Even the new/replacement part was giving the same value when I plugged in the original HP charger.
Then I recalled the client mentioning "The charger didn't seem to go in as far either" but it seemed like it was going in far enough then I actually put the tip under the microscope and notice the middle pin was bent to one side!
Total Homer Simpson moment. There is no way I would have thought about checking the tip of the charger if it wasn't for what the client mentioned and your input on the brown wire/pin being 19.8V supplying the charge for the battery.

I am still baffled as to how the red wires/pins still got 19V and laptop still powered on yet the brown pin wasn't getting anything.
Also my universal one gave a similar reading which is weird because I just checked it and its tip is not bent!? It is not authentic HP charger but it has always worked on various brands numerous times.
So, there is a bit of Twilight Zone moment there but oh well...

Anyhow, I carefully corrected the pin so it was fairly straight and insert it into the original DC connector and it went in maybe another 1-2 mm but now the LED changed to solid white!
I went ahead and soldered the fan port onto the board as well. This was something new for me but I think it came out OK.

After I put it all together, before closing the lid, I checked the charger again and it is solid amber meaning charging the very drained battery!
I am really shocked the main charging issue was something so idiotic (and that I missed it). Typically, the DC connectors were bad on such issues I worked on at the shop.
Still, I am quite stoked I got it sorted out. I will also have to replace the damaged screen and it should be good to go!

Thank you again and Cheers!
Matt

[m1ch43lzm]

So the issue was actually a bad charger + bad DC jack; sometimes we forget to check the basics first
The middle pin is just for identifying the charger type, the actual +19V is on the inside "barrel", the outside is GND
Dell uses the exact same charger tip (different tip color nowadays, Dell uses a black tip while HP uses a blue tip), the ID protocol on the middle pin is different, on HP is a resistor connected to +19v, on Dell is a 1-wire EEPROM, so you can't use a Dell charger on an HP laptop and vice-versa
You may have noticed the same thing on the tips for your universal laptop charger, there's one tip labeled "HP", and another tip labeled "Dell", even if the tips look exactly the same, they're incompatible

If you plug an HP charger on a Dell laptop (or damaged middle pin/bad DC jack), it won't charge the battery (but the battery doesn't discharge either, depends on model i think), and the CPU gets stuck at 400MHz, there's also a protection circuit for the middle pin on Dell laptop motherboards if someone plugs in by "mistake" an HP charger
And Dell charger on HP laptop (or damaged middle pin/bad DC jack), laptop won't charge the battery, or as you found out, laptop won't power on from the charger only

Glad you fixed it, and it was a "simple" fix in the end

[TurcoLoco]

So the issue was actually a bad charger + bad DC jack; sometimes we forget to check the basics first
The middle pin is just for identifying the charger type, the actual +19V is on the inside "barrel", the outside is GND

Yup, but in this case, once I straighten out the middle pin inside the tip of the charger and tried the original DC connector, it seemed to be working as well.
So, the issue was merely the bent pin inside the connector of the original charger.
Interesting. I knew the outside was ground but I thought inside of the barrel was also ground and the middle piece/pin was the positive.
There is no way I would have noticed the bent pin without using reading glasses or a magnifying glass. I can't see such small stuff up-close!

Dell uses the exact same charger tip (different tip color nowadays, Dell uses a black tip while HP uses a blue tip), the ID protocol on the middle pin is different, on HP is a resistor connected to +19v, on Dell is a 1-wire EEPROM, so you can't use a Dell charger on an HP laptop and vice-versa
You may have noticed the same thing on the tips for your universal laptop charger, there's one tip labeled "HP", and another tip labeled "Dell", even if the tips look exactly the same, they're incompatible

The universal I have actually has identical looking tips for each make, so the HP charger is the same exact diameter, length and even has the blue part at the end so it makes it fool-proof.
The only thing I am not 100% certain on is when I tested my universal charger with the original DC connector, if it was connected to the board or not.
I am 100% certain I got like 2.x-3.x V reading on it, so I am thinking it might have been connected to the main board hence the low reading.

If you plug an HP charger on a Dell laptop (or damaged middle pin/bad DC jack), it won't charge the battery (but the battery doesn't discharge either, depends on model i think), and the CPU gets stuck at 400MHz, there's also a protection circuit for the middle pin on Dell laptop motherboards if someone plugs in by "mistake" an HP charger
And Dell charger on HP laptop (or damaged middle pin/bad DC jack), laptop won't charge the battery, or as you found out, laptop won't power on from the charger only

Never done that but interesting bit about the CPU speed getting stuck like that.

Glad you fixed it, and it was a "simple" fix in the end

Me too, sir, me too! Don't worry, I will hit you with legit complicated stuff in the future!
Still I learned quite a bit from you on what to check when troubleshooting charging issues so it definitely wasn't a waste of time at my end.

Again, much obliged!