This may be one of the bastard macbooks that needs a good battery to boot. Can you test with a charged battery?
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O M G YOU ARE RIGHT I will do that test now and see I do have a spare M1 top case laying around somewhere ill do that shortly....sigpic
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Well, lucky for us we have a spare MacBook Pro 13" M1 base model in stock, battery works on it but need to charge it. I will come back with my findings
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Update: swapped out good MacBook top case with good board and put the board we fixed into the top case, battery was left at 30 percent charge. No power, no DFU showing up or recovery, no shorts presently showing on Thermal Imager. When trying to attempt DFU input, the meter shoots up to .28 amps staying at 5Volts. :/
When holding power button only, no spike in amps, but when you input the exact DFU keys the meter spikes up to .30 amps then stays at .28amps then once you let go, it drops to .02 amps
Upon checking further: it seems the UC300 Rail has no power on the ENABLE Signal, however I just replaced the APL 1096 chip and the short went away once I did that. Would a faulty UC300 cause the signal to not move forward? I am seeing this has no voltage readings whatsoever and that it needs it.Last edited by Stephen; 03-04-2024, 04:13 PM.sigpic
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I replaced UC300 and then I found a short on the board after doing that. Why is UT620 shorted? this is the power Touch ID area? That area was reaching 320 degrees and higher that is ABNORMALLY high for a short.
I replaced that chip, but it keeps shorting out, so something is forcing that area to keep shoring. When that area is replaced the board jumps up to .45 amps then drops down to .33amps and stays until that area gets super hot. It came back once I replaced UC300. So I am assuming this is the cause why this board is not turning on.
checking further Q5840 is showing 120 degrees and rising. So these two areas are showing up after replacing UC300.
Right now currently the Board is sitting at .47ALast edited by Stephen; 03-04-2024, 05:02 PM.sigpic
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Hey mon2 got any ideas?sigpic
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Hello, I have the following laptop:
Asus TUF A15
Model: FA507XI-LP018W
Motherboard: DA0NJSMBAD0 REV: D; Model: NJS
Issue: It powers on, all the leds work but there is no video signal at all, neither on the original display nor on an external display. Also the coolers don't move at all, even though they get power. And to turn it off i need to keep pressing the power button for 10 seconds.
The laptop had the motherboard battery connector completely sheared off, so I had to solder it back. I'm not sure how that happened but i didn't open the laptop at all, until...08-28-2024, 01:58 AM -
Hi guys, I have an A1466 (820-00165-A) board which came in dead, had corrosion on R7181 near ISL6259 chip. I removed corrosion and replace R7181 and the macbook powered on.
After sometime I didn't get any light on the charger but fan was spinning and I was getting battery charge logo on the screen, so I replaced the ISL6259 chip and it came on! everything was working fine.
(NOTE: Customer had previously got the battery replaced from another shop and it was third party bad quality)
I had used my test SSD and my known good original battery.
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Hello everyone,
This is my first post after browsing this wonderful treasure trove of knowledge for many, many evenings. I've decided to learn how to fix these things, properly.
My patient is an A2338 Macbook Pro M1 (late 2020).
It had some corrosion around JT710 and JT700 caused by liquid spill, as well as against the protective barrier around the USB-C chips UF000 and UF100. So I took the main board out and cleaned it with a toothbrush and alcohol, then with alcohol in an ultrasonic cleaner. Cleaned the touchbar flex connectors as well. The board looks... -
There are a lot of Video Tutorials how the SSD of A2338 or A2337 can be upgraded. Normally they say you can order the bigger SSD chips (0 and 1) from China. But as far as I understand you can take the SSD chips of one A2337/A2338 and install on another, put to DFU mode, do the recovery, reinstall etc... I tried that several times (tried to upgrade 256GB to 512Gb, then to 1TB, then to another 256Gb)... nothing worked. So my question to the community is: can I just take the SSD chips from one A2338 and intall them on another A2338 (taking care of course of the 0 and 1 positions)? Or I have always...01-17-2024, 03:55 AM -
I have an LG Plasma TV 60PM6700 for the past ~12 years.
In the last ~3-4 months I have been having some issues.- Problem: It started with random picture disappearing (sound still worked).
Frequency: Happened about once a week.
Solution: Had to turn off TV wait a few seconds before turning it on again. - Problem: Then it got worse and the TV started to shut down and when turning on the no picture just sound.
Frequency: Happened about once a week.
Solution: Had to turn off TV wait about 10-20 seconds and turn it on again to solve. - Problem: TV shuts down
- Problem: It started with random picture disappearing (sound still worked).
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