for me u can keep troubleshoting the board, but 10omh on cpu is not good.
when i have a board with such low resistance (macbook air 2013-2017) i dont spend much time in troubleshoting.
once one board started working again... i put back some capacitor that was previously removed due to corroded trace... board went dead again and never come up to life.
10 ohms is fine, just depends on what CPU is fitted. Usually faults on 165 boards are PCH related, but if it boots, that's usually a sign CPU/PCH is fine. Problem is more likely power related with a PPBUS_G3H sag. Marginal chargers can be overcome as additional current is supplied by the battery, which seems to be dubious in this thread. So you start with a know good battery AND a genuine charger (not a bench supply) to get a baseline. Then move on U7100 and it's current sense resistors etc.
If the board is previously liquid damaged and run through an ultrasonic, these a usually a nightmare because corrosion is often under a passive component and the US makes it much harder to spot. Often a lot of pads also double as VIA's too complicating things. My advice is inspect each components end caps and look for any that are dark/corroded etc. Usually, the pad underneath is corroded resulting in these intermittent issues.
10 ohms is fine, just depends on what CPU is fitted. Usually faults on 165 boards are PCH related, but if it boots, that's usually a sign CPU/PCH is fine. Problem is more likely power related with a PPBUS_G3H sag. Marginal chargers can be overcome as additional current is supplied by the battery, which seems to be dubious in this thread. So you start with a know good battery AND a genuine charger (not a bench supply) to get a baseline. Then move on U7100 and it's current sense resistors etc.
If the board is previously liquid damaged and run through an ultrasonic, these a usually a nightmare because corrosion is often under a passive component and the US makes it much harder to spot. Often a lot of pads also double as VIA's too complicating things. My advice is inspect each components end caps and look for any that are dark/corroded etc. Usually, the pad underneath is corroded resulting in these intermittent issues.
The battery is Genuine and Known Good too. So is the Adapter.
The most weird thing to me is that there is no Magsafe light when the battery is connected. The light comes on only when battery is unplugged. The booting process is same in both cases though.
If we use a higher wattage charger ( Genuine but that of a Macbook Pro), we get Freen/Orange light even with the battery plugged in.
Repeat testing of this rail with both the battery and adapter connected. Then again with only the battery connected.
If you lose the magsafe light, this rail may be missing.
This rail i am always getting 3.42V
Without Battery Only Adapter - Magsafe Light with 3.42V
With Battery and Without Adapter - 3.4V
With Battery and Magsafe Adapter - 3.42 V - No Light on the Genuine Charger - Light on the Higher Wattage Charger.
Magsafe LED is OFF when battery is connected and no charging, but green/orange light and normal boot from charger when battery is disconnected. Resolved by replacing Q7180 transistor.
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