Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?
Well ive just opened the xbox 360 up a few of the plastic side clips are broke of (i have spare side cover) i can see why it has the 3 red lights now and secondary code 0102 no wonder the xbox failed look at the dust in the enclosed pictures i think i may try a reflow on this board.
just saw this thread
Originally Posted by Mad_Professor View Post
That is not the proper way to reflow your 360.
Real reason for RROD and YLOD is not overheating but it is part of the problem. The heat/cool cycles cause micro-fractures in the solder balls used to surface mount the chips and components.
The best way to do this is to get a heatgun either 2.5A 500*F 5A 700* 10A 1000*F I prefer the 10amp heatgun. Strip the 360 down to bare board and remove it from the case. Clean the thermal paste off the cpu and gpu, use 91% alcohol, acetone*be careful with this stuff* or mineral spirits<--preferred.
Then use the heatgun to preheat the board for 2 minutes, and keep the gun about 4-8 inches in distance and moving. Flip to the other side every 3 passes and don't stay in one place otherwise you'll melt the components on the board. I recommend mounting the board in a vice that way it's easier to use both hands to flip to each side.
Once the board is preheated, it time to focus on the CPU and GPU and move back and forth between the two for 10 minutes. During this time you'll want to add flux around the chips, try to inject some if you can, if you don't have any then don't worry about it, I've had success without flux.
It is essential to not bump or be careless with the board, you can easily dislodge components when the solder is near liquid state.
After 10 minutes let the board hang out for an hour to cool this is essential, if you don't do this you're risking premature failure.
Once you do that you can go ahead and put it back together. Use some good quality thermal paste, Arctic silver 5 is the best, industrial thermal compound works too.
TEST IT!
If it works, awesome, if it doesn't, chuck it!
If it does work.
You'll want to either replace the cooling fan with one that has high CFM Flow or have a way to control it so you can bump it up higher then the idle speed or have a fixed speed so the 360 never gets hot again. A warm or dull warm xbox or PS3 is preferred, and FUCK NOISE! Either keep it cool and deal with loudness of the fan or buy a new 360.
Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?
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Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?
sorry The_Killer53 about late reply i did manage too pick the xbox up yesterday just didnt have time too open it up and look inside etc, (had job interview etc then visitors turned up) but later today i will test mine and see what the issue is with it im glad momaka posted the values you needed etc as you can get on with installing the capacitors and testing and momaka sounds like hes worked on a few of these so maybe he can help us both out with our repairs. If you need to know anything else regarding the motherboard whilst my xbox is open just ask.I will ask if I need anything else and will keep you posted on my progress with the board
I do appreciate all the help,
- Thanks againLeave a comment:
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Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?
sorry The_Killer53 about late reply i did manage too pick the xbox up yesterday just didnt have time too open it up and look inside etc, (had job interview etc then visitors turned up) but later today i will test mine and see what the issue is with it im glad momaka posted the values you needed etc as you can get on with installing the capacitors and testing and momaka sounds like hes worked on a few of these so maybe he can help us both out with our repairs. If you need to know anything else regarding the motherboard whilst my xbox is open just ask.Leave a comment:
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Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?
I sectioned these for you, so you can understand what each cap does
Stand-by 1.8V rail (generated from 3.3V stand-by)
- C5B4 - Nichicon VZ 16 V, 100 uF, 5x11 mm (dia. x h)
Stand-by 3.3V rail (generated from 5VSB)
- C5B2 - Nichicon VZ 16 V, 100 uF, 5x11 mm (dia. x h)
5VSB rail from PSU
- C5B7 - Nichicon VZ 16 V, 100 uF, 5x11 mm (dia. x h)
12V rail from PSU (GPU VRM high side)
- C6B3 - Nichicon HN 16 V, 1500 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C7B3 - Nichicon HN 16 V, 1500 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
GPU V_core rail (GPU VRM low side)
- C6C2 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C6C3 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C7C1 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C7C2 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
CPU V_core rail (CPU VRM low side)
- C8C1 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8D1 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8D4 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8E3 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8E8 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8F1 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8F2 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8F3 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
5V rail (generated from PSU 12V rail) for USB controllers and front ports, if I remember correctly
- C7F1 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
12V rail from PSU (5V rail VRM high side)
- C7F2 - Nichicon HN 16 V, 1500 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C6F3 - Nichicon HN 16 V, 1500 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
Worth noting is that if you have other dead 360 boards, you can use these caps interchangeably:
Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF <--> Rubycon MFZ 6.3 V, 2700 uF <--> Fujitsu FPCAP RE 4 V, 820 uF (the yellow ones)
Nichicon HN 16 V, 1500 uF <--> Rubycon MCZ 16 V, 1500 uF <--> Panasonic FL 16 V, 1500 uF <--> Sanyo WF 16 V, 1500 uF <--> Chemicon KZJ 16 V, 1500 uF
(I personally wouldn't recommend using the last two, as they are somewhat unreliable series)
Nichicon VZ 16 V, 100 uF <--> Rubycon YXA 16 V, 100 uF <--> Chemicon KMG 16 V, 100 uF <--> Panasonic NHG 16 V, 100 uF
Let me know if you need any other help with these. I have these boards for scrap (already pulled the caps) and can get most component value measurements for you.
As stj noted, there might be a reason why the caps were pulled from your board (probably unrepairable). I've seen quite a few 360's develop bad RAM. Not worth the effort changing it, IMO. But it could be that GPU just needs a reflow. Or, if you are very lucky, a shorted MOSFET on GPU or CPU VRM - but I've seen only one or two cases of that (used to work/help in a console repair shop). Most common problems are GPU BGA issues, DVD drive laser or stuck door, and overheating RAM chips (which is not easily repairable).I do agree with you that there are probably more issues with the board, however I have the parts you have listed so I might as well try see what the problem is whether it is GPU or RAM.
- Thanks again, that's a real helpLeave a comment:
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Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?
I sectioned these for you, so you can understand what each cap does
Stand-by 1.8V rail (generated from 3.3V stand-by)
- C5B4 - Nichicon VZ 16 V, 100 uF, 5x11 mm (dia. x h)
Stand-by 3.3V rail (generated from 5VSB)
- C5B2 - Nichicon VZ 16 V, 100 uF, 5x11 mm (dia. x h)
5VSB rail from PSU
- C5B7 - Nichicon VZ 16 V, 100 uF, 5x11 mm (dia. x h)
12V rail from PSU (GPU VRM high side)
- C6B3 - Nichicon HN 16 V, 1500 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C7B3 - Nichicon HN 16 V, 1500 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
GPU V_core rail (GPU VRM low side)
- C6C2 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C6C3 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C7C1 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C7C2 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
CPU V_core rail (CPU VRM low side)
- C8C1 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8D1 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8D4 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8E3 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8E8 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8F1 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8F2 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C8F3 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
5V rail (generated from PSU 12V rail) for USB controllers and front ports, if I remember correctly
- C7F1 - Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
12V rail from PSU (5V rail VRM high side)
- C7F2 - Nichicon HN 16 V, 1500 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
- C6F3 - Nichicon HN 16 V, 1500 uF, 10x20 mm (dia. x h)
Worth noting is that if you have other dead 360 boards, you can use these caps interchangeably:
Nichicon HZ 6.3 V, 2200 uF <--> Rubycon MFZ 6.3 V, 2700 uF <--> Fujitsu FPCAP RE 4 V, 820 uF (the yellow ones)
Nichicon HN 16 V, 1500 uF <--> Rubycon MCZ 16 V, 1500 uF <--> Panasonic FL 16 V, 1500 uF <--> Sanyo WF 16 V, 1500 uF <--> Chemicon KZJ 16 V, 1500 uF
(I personally wouldn't recommend using the last two, as they are somewhat unreliable series)
Nichicon VZ 16 V, 100 uF <--> Rubycon YXA 16 V, 100 uF <--> Chemicon KMG 16 V, 100 uF <--> Panasonic NHG 16 V, 100 uF
Let me know if you need any other help with these. I have these boards for scrap (already pulled the caps) and can get most component value measurements for you.
As stj noted, there might be a reason why the caps were pulled from your board (probably unrepairable). I've seen quite a few 360's develop bad RAM. Not worth the effort changing it, IMO. But it could be that GPU just needs a reflow. Or, if you are very lucky, a shorted MOSFET on GPU or CPU VRM - but I've seen only one or two cases of that (used to work/help in a console repair shop). Most common problems are GPU BGA issues, DVD drive laser or stuck door, and overheating RAM chips (which is not easily repairable).Last edited by momaka; 03-04-2016, 08:34 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?
sorry the xbox arrived when i wasnt in its being re delivered tomorrow just hope its the xenon board i will update asap.Leave a comment:
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Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?
Leave a comment:
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Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?
Hi sorry its taking time ive had two 360s arrive so far both are hdmi models i have one coming tomorrow which is the basic non hdmi model hopefully its the same as yours i will update the post when i receive it.Leave a comment:
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Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?
you should ask yourself why they are removed.
it's probably got a dead or shorted gpu or worse.Leave a comment:
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Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?
you may find the values in this scematic
http://www.slideshare.net/AngelArita1/diagramaxbox360
Failing that when im back at home monday/tuesday i will look and see if i have that mother board in the 3 xboxes i have.
Thanks again.Leave a comment:
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Re: Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?
you may find the values in this scematic
http://www.slideshare.net/AngelArita1/diagramaxbox360
Failing that when im back at home monday/tuesday i will look and see if i have that mother board in the 3 xboxes i have.Last edited by vinceroger69; 02-27-2016, 06:56 AM.Leave a comment:
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Xbox 360 Xenon Motherboard Capacitor Replacements?
Hey everyone, in a nutshell I have an Xbox 360 that isn't working. I didn't buy the console so I don't know what model it is etc... I do, however, know that it has a Xenon motherboard after following a YouTube video that helped me identify it.
When I cracked open the case I found the motherboard missing around 20 main capacitors and I would love some help in identify what I should replace them with. I only have the cXXX code that is printed on the motherboard where the capacitors should be.
If anyone could tell me what type of capacitor I need for the following I would be very grateful:
- C5B4
- C5B2
- C5B7
- C6B3
- C7B3
- C6C2
- C6C3
- C7C1
- C7C2
- C8C1
- C8D1
- C8D4
- C8E3
- C8E8
- C8F1
- C8F2
- C8F3
- C7F1
- C7F2
- C6F3
Thanks again, and sorry for so many caps :PTags: None
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