Greetings fellow Badcaps forum readers! 
This a recap of an ASUS A8N SLI (ASUS A8N SLI full specs link Bios Ver: 1014, PCB rev 1.02)
I am doing this as a preventative recap per PCBONES's recommendations; it eliminates all potential capacitors that could go bad (i.e. KZGs) in the most demanding circuit in a MOBO: the +12v VRM Input and VRM output (vCore). Capacitors in the +12v VRM and vCore experience more sustained heat, current and ripples vs. other MOBO circuits; thus, it is a good idea to have good caps in these two circuits. Luckily, my vCore caps are Panasonic FJS, which are good to go! Accordingly, I will replace all KZGs involved in the VRM and I had some extra MBZs to replace the northbridge KZG caps. Aside from the peace of mind of having Rubicons stabilize my VRM voltages and consequently my cpu vCore, aesthetically those Rubicon MBZs look nicer than the poopy brown NCC KZGs they are replacing.
Gameplan:
1) Remove and measure 4x 1000uF KZG (+12v VRM Input) + 2x 1000uF KZG (Sli Chipset Caps)
2) Measure and replace 4x 1000uF KZG (+12v VRM Input) w/ 4x 1000uF Rubicon MBZs
3) Measure and replace 2x 1000uF KZG (Sli Chipset Caps) w/ 2x 1000uF Rubicon MBZs
**Note: Polarity conventions on this board are REVERSE! (white is (+)positive/ground!)**
Execution:
Remove and measure 4x 1000uF KZG (12v Rail) + 2x 1000uF KZG (Sli Chipset Caps)
I set my solder iron to 600C, primed it with some fresh solder and heated the old solder joint of the appropriate capacitors from the back of the board. I would heat up one leg at a time from the backside of the board, pulling softly once the cap felt loose. Basically, I rocked the old cap back and forth while still making progress toward pulling it out of the board. Usually the cap had made enough progress after 4-6 heatings (2-3 on each leg) to be freed from the MOBO.
New Rubicon MBZ caps measured A-OK:
1015uF, 1017uF, 1019uF, 1020uF, 1022uF, 1025uF
Removed caps measured:
4x 1000uF KZG (+12v VRM Input) = circuit before removal = 3860uF, Individually after removal from board (see pic): 994uF ("potential badcap" pic), 986uF, 978uF, 989uF These KZGs measured OK, probably would have lasted a few more years
2x 1000uF KZG (Sli Chipset Caps) = circuit before removal = 1600uF, Cap measured after removal from board: 1025uF, 1003uF
Guess KZGs on ASUS A8N Sli's might be legit after all!
2) Measure and replace 4x 1000uF KZG (+12v VRM Input) w/ 4x 1000uF Rubicon MBZs
3) Measure and replace 2x 1000uF KZG (Sli Chipset Caps) w/ 2x 1000uF Rubicon MBZs
All of these holes were really small, so clearing them with the solder sucker would not work after 2 attempts, I would recommend not wasting your time or risking damage to the foils in the board. So, I used a new technique: I heated the solder on the backside of the board, and held the new rubicon capacitors on the otherside of the board. Once the solder heated to a molten state through the length of the board (15-45 sec), one leg of the capacitor slid through with minimal pressure (Slide longer positive pole through board first, then shorter leg)! Then, I heated up the other leg's solder joint and the other leg went through....essentially just the reverse of cap removal I described earlier!
Final Cap Circuit measurements:
4x 1000uF KZG (+12v VRM Input) = circuit before removal = 3860uF
After Rubicon MBZ replacement 4120uF
2x 1000uF KZG (Sli Chipset Caps) = circuit before removal = 1598uF
After MCZ replacement = 1556uF
Final Notes and Thoughts:
-**Note: Polarity conventions on this board are REVERSE! (white is (+)positive/ground!)**
-Use 60/40 solder or similar (I used 63/37 solder = 63% Tin and 37% Lead)
-Traces on the backside of the ASUS A8N SLI are superficial, appear fragile and are sometimes near where you willl be soldering. Tip: Cut small portions of electrical tape and cover the board surface near where you will be soldering. The tape gives the backside of the board and traces a second or two of extra protection from the sharp and scalding hot 600C solder iron tip. Also, It looks professional at the end of your recap when you peel away the tape and see ultra clean board, vs. board with some thermal damage, some solder or solder resin deposits.
-KZGs pulled from this board (4 years of use) were in much better shape than my 3 year old MSI board (My First Recap_MSI 7125). Perhaps not all KZGs are created equally, ASUS may have gotten the “good KZGs” (if such a thing exists) or a good batch of caps were used when making the A8N SLIs. In either case, I have the reassurance that my VRM circuit has 100% legit caps: ALL Rubicon MBZ in +12v Input VRM and Panasonic FJS in vCore circuits!
-Ginguskhan's Recapping Stats
KZG recap/kill count this board = 6 caps (+rep)
KZG recap/kill count total = 15 caps
Total recap/kill count = 16 replaced caps!
This a recap of an ASUS A8N SLI (ASUS A8N SLI full specs link Bios Ver: 1014, PCB rev 1.02)
I am doing this as a preventative recap per PCBONES's recommendations; it eliminates all potential capacitors that could go bad (i.e. KZGs) in the most demanding circuit in a MOBO: the +12v VRM Input and VRM output (vCore). Capacitors in the +12v VRM and vCore experience more sustained heat, current and ripples vs. other MOBO circuits; thus, it is a good idea to have good caps in these two circuits. Luckily, my vCore caps are Panasonic FJS, which are good to go! Accordingly, I will replace all KZGs involved in the VRM and I had some extra MBZs to replace the northbridge KZG caps. Aside from the peace of mind of having Rubicons stabilize my VRM voltages and consequently my cpu vCore, aesthetically those Rubicon MBZs look nicer than the poopy brown NCC KZGs they are replacing.
Gameplan:
1) Remove and measure 4x 1000uF KZG (+12v VRM Input) + 2x 1000uF KZG (Sli Chipset Caps)
2) Measure and replace 4x 1000uF KZG (+12v VRM Input) w/ 4x 1000uF Rubicon MBZs
3) Measure and replace 2x 1000uF KZG (Sli Chipset Caps) w/ 2x 1000uF Rubicon MBZs
**Note: Polarity conventions on this board are REVERSE! (white is (+)positive/ground!)**
Execution:
Remove and measure 4x 1000uF KZG (12v Rail) + 2x 1000uF KZG (Sli Chipset Caps)
I set my solder iron to 600C, primed it with some fresh solder and heated the old solder joint of the appropriate capacitors from the back of the board. I would heat up one leg at a time from the backside of the board, pulling softly once the cap felt loose. Basically, I rocked the old cap back and forth while still making progress toward pulling it out of the board. Usually the cap had made enough progress after 4-6 heatings (2-3 on each leg) to be freed from the MOBO.
New Rubicon MBZ caps measured A-OK:
1015uF, 1017uF, 1019uF, 1020uF, 1022uF, 1025uF
Removed caps measured:
4x 1000uF KZG (+12v VRM Input) = circuit before removal = 3860uF, Individually after removal from board (see pic): 994uF ("potential badcap" pic), 986uF, 978uF, 989uF These KZGs measured OK, probably would have lasted a few more years
2x 1000uF KZG (Sli Chipset Caps) = circuit before removal = 1600uF, Cap measured after removal from board: 1025uF, 1003uF
Guess KZGs on ASUS A8N Sli's might be legit after all!2) Measure and replace 4x 1000uF KZG (+12v VRM Input) w/ 4x 1000uF Rubicon MBZs
3) Measure and replace 2x 1000uF KZG (Sli Chipset Caps) w/ 2x 1000uF Rubicon MBZs
All of these holes were really small, so clearing them with the solder sucker would not work after 2 attempts, I would recommend not wasting your time or risking damage to the foils in the board. So, I used a new technique: I heated the solder on the backside of the board, and held the new rubicon capacitors on the otherside of the board. Once the solder heated to a molten state through the length of the board (15-45 sec), one leg of the capacitor slid through with minimal pressure (Slide longer positive pole through board first, then shorter leg)! Then, I heated up the other leg's solder joint and the other leg went through....essentially just the reverse of cap removal I described earlier!
Final Cap Circuit measurements:
4x 1000uF KZG (+12v VRM Input) = circuit before removal = 3860uF
After Rubicon MBZ replacement 4120uF
2x 1000uF KZG (Sli Chipset Caps) = circuit before removal = 1598uF
After MCZ replacement = 1556uF
Final Notes and Thoughts:
-**Note: Polarity conventions on this board are REVERSE! (white is (+)positive/ground!)**
-Use 60/40 solder or similar (I used 63/37 solder = 63% Tin and 37% Lead)
-Traces on the backside of the ASUS A8N SLI are superficial, appear fragile and are sometimes near where you willl be soldering. Tip: Cut small portions of electrical tape and cover the board surface near where you will be soldering. The tape gives the backside of the board and traces a second or two of extra protection from the sharp and scalding hot 600C solder iron tip. Also, It looks professional at the end of your recap when you peel away the tape and see ultra clean board, vs. board with some thermal damage, some solder or solder resin deposits.
-KZGs pulled from this board (4 years of use) were in much better shape than my 3 year old MSI board (My First Recap_MSI 7125). Perhaps not all KZGs are created equally, ASUS may have gotten the “good KZGs” (if such a thing exists) or a good batch of caps were used when making the A8N SLIs. In either case, I have the reassurance that my VRM circuit has 100% legit caps: ALL Rubicon MBZ in +12v Input VRM and Panasonic FJS in vCore circuits!
-Ginguskhan's Recapping Stats
KZG recap/kill count this board = 6 caps (+rep) KZG recap/kill count total = 15 caps Total recap/kill count = 16 replaced caps!
Attached Files
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