It was my impression that Intel made boards don't have O/C options at all.. I mean i remember my old AL440LX could have it's FSB changed via a software tool in windows, but that was back in '98..
no its changing now. they allow 30% overclock with this board. they also allowed 4% overclock with my ~3 year old D875PBZLK. i am speaking generally cos i am not really into all that.
Check out xtremesytems ...alot of people there are using this same motherboard and there are plenty of OC options and OC mods. I have already done the OC Debug BIOS mod on my rev 304 board. I'm just waiting for my E6600. I currently am using a rev 302 with a Pentium D 950.
I plan to lap my E6600 and possibly my North and South bridge heatsinks. I just ordered some very nice Zalman heatsinks for the North bridge and CPU and GPU. I had a Scthye Ninja before, but there are a few things I do not like about it. The Zalman CPU and GPU heatsinks are already lapped from the factory.
Anyways..back on topic. If I need the following caps, then what are the equivalent solid caps? Sorry, but I'm a n00b in training when it comes to all this. Not sure by what you mean by half capacitance...
(3 total) 6.3V, 3300uF
(19 total) 10V, 470uF
(3 total) 10V, 1000uF
(4 total) 16V, 470uF
(4 total) 16V, 1200uF
Oh, and the guy that used all solid caps was able to over clock an additional 60MHz to the FSB compared to using the stock caps. Now that is pretty damn good! I am planning to run a 4*400MHz or 1600MHz FSB and 2*400MHz or 800MHz DDR2. This will be a 1:1 FSB:MEM ratio. I want the board to be rock solid stable and also showcase a little bling!
1: Use full sheets of wet or dry.
2: There is no need to go beyond a well used sheet of 800.
3: Never polish the base with any agent. The vigin base should only be introduced to TIM.
4: Use 3/8" glass or flat marble floor tile 12" square for a lapping block. A 12" machinist rule should be used to check flatness of either before purchase.
Did you even read 1~4. I use full sheets not 1/4 sheets.
A near dead flat floor tile is not hard to come by. Sheesh! Kinda quick on the draw dude.
It's hard to stay on a quater sheet. His kits come with 1/4 sheets.
when i say you can use half capacitance in polymer to replace wet electrolytics. This means that if you have a cap say Rubycon MCZ 1000uf 6.3v
then you can replace it with a polymer nearest to half capacitance but better exceeding half
so you would use Chemicon PSA 680uf 6.3v
capacitance is measured in uf which is microfarads
problem is that Chemicon PSA is not available in 330uf 16v like the PS series he used on the 12v lines on the board. I dont know where to obtain polymers in 16v presently.
you can read off the values easily, like from the left of the pic 470uf 6v, 820uf 6v, 820uf 6v. I dont know why he used SEP series because their specs are quite inferior for polymer caps. probably he used them because of availability? SEPC would be superior.
When the time comes for a recap I may consider going polymer. In fact why would this not signal the end of wet aluminum for this application?
Is the price double, triple, or more?
If they are longer lasting, cannot leak, dissipate heat and appear to be smaller, I want them, and will gladly charge a customer more.
Most of my customers, not all, don't flinch when I ask for any amount that's fair.
But my clientel consists of large yacht owners, they're used to the OMG factor.
Or as we call it the B.O.A.T. fee.
Heh, i had never heard of an Intel board that would allow such an O/C... I have to admit that it's a beautifiul, well designed board, but a bit expensive for my taste..
When you take half the capacitance, just take the uF rating and get the closest value that comes to 1/2 of the regular Al electrolytic value..
In some places, extra capacitance can help.
For example
10V 1000uF Al electro would be a 10V 560uF polymer..
If i'm recapping a board for O/C performance, add a bit (not more than 30%) to the secondary side of the VRM for the CPU, Vdimm, etc..
Others on this forum have put small X7R SMT caps on the underside of the board across each electrolytic to bypass it from HF frequency stuff.. Not sure how much it helps, but since you're voiding your warranty anyway, i guess it can't hurt..
Just an FYI, most Intel motherboards have a 3 year warranty. If you just got this board, you will void the warranty. I'm still wondering why you might want to alter this board, especially if you're not seeing any problems.
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