Nice YEC cap, isn't it? 
This is another one of the same type:
The overall look - looks nice with the heatsinks:
This is another one of the same type:
The overall look - looks nice with the heatsinks:
Attached Files
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Re: GMB-P6LIAK V1 (DTK PRM0076i E1)
look how they sink the fets. -
Re: GMB-P6LIAK V1 (DTK PRM0076i E1)
Keeps the adjacent caps from catching cold?PeteS in CA
Power Supplies should be boring: No loud noises, no bright flashes, and no bad smells.
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To kill personal responsibility, initiative or success, punish it by taxing it. To encourage irresponsibility, improvidence, dependence and failure, reward it by subsidizing it.
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Re: GMB-P6LIAK V1 (DTK PRM0076i E1)
want a bucketfull of exploded yec caps?
i have 100+ ibm thin clients to recap.
they are full of yecComment
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Re: GMB-P6LIAK V1 (DTK PRM0076i E1)
no i like it and never seen again unfortunately, yes cap proximity is always a concern - not for the designers thoughKeeps the adjacent caps from catching cold?Comment
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Re: GMB-P6LIAK V1 (DTK PRM0076i E1)
The interesting thing is that the bulged cap was not near any heatsink. And other are not bulged. I replaced all 4 blue YEC 1500uF/10V caps with Chemicon KZG 2200uF/16V from dead MSI P4 board. They're bigger so two are touching the heatsinks now - but the heatsinks are not hot, at least with Celeron 266
Comment
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Re: GMB-P6LIAK V1 (DTK PRM0076i E1)
yes when you check with esr meter sometimes only a few cap out of a whole bunch of lelon or similar on a board are bad. this is the essence of badcap, inconsistent performance whether due to bad QC or whatever. only takes 1 badcap to screw up the circuitThe interesting thing is that the bulged cap was not near any heatsink. And other are not bulged.Comment
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Re: GMB-P6LIAK V1 (DTK PRM0076i E1)
My dad has an old IBM Aptiva system (bought in 1998 or 1999) and the YEC caps in it are still fine, and it was used an hour or two everyday until the summer of 2005, when it was retired. My dad still has it, but as a backup system.
Maybe the first few years of it operating in a cold basement that had a temperature a few degrees lower that normal room temperature extended the life of the YEC caps in it?My gaming PC:
AMD Phenom II X6 1100T Black Edition 3.3GHz Six-Core CPU (Socket AM3)
ASUS M4A77TD AMD 770 AM3 Motherboard
PowerColor AMD Radeon RX 480 8GB GDDR5 PCI-Express x16 3.0 Graphics Card
G.SKILL Value Series 16GB DDR3-1333 RAM (4x4GB dual channel)
TOSHIBA DT01ACA200 2TB 3.5" SATA HDD (x2)
WD Caviar Green WD20EARX 2TB 3.5" SATA HDD
ASUS Xonar DG 5.1 Channel PCI sound card
Antec HCG-750M 750W ATX12V v2.32 80 PLUS BRONZE Power Supply
Antec Three Hundred Mid-Tower Case
Microsoft Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64-bitComment
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I know I've been a little scarce lately (like the last 2-3 years), but I'm still here and still doing my thing with fixing PSUs.
For today's considerations, I have a Seasonic B12 BC-550 [A551bcafh] 550 Watt ATX power supply for you (click on links for full size images).
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591771
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591772
It's a modern ATX unit with fixed (non-modular) cables and an 80-plus bronze certificate. Here's the label:
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=359177... -
Problem
This is an LG edge LED lit LCD Display. The LEDs are on the bottom edge of the display. There are 2 bars (left and right) Each bar has many LEDs and a 6 pin connector. Each pin drive several LEDs thus is the highest current flow / heat junction. The weak lead free solder gradually fails with thermal expansion/contraction cycling and increases resistance. PSU will compensate up to a point, then when the current is too high, PSU just shut down the backlight causing a dark display. I have even seen one which the connector just fell off as solder points became completely detached.... -
I have here a Magnum IA.100 which belongs to my parents.
The unit powers on & when the relay kicks in, you get a pop from the speakers (this might sound weird but is usual behavior for this amp). However, you get nothing coming through it from any of the inputs & no pops and crackls from any of the controls.
Because of the sound from the speaker when the amp turns on I have assumed that the output section probably works but I could be wrong & I'm not sure how to test that side of things further.
What Ive done........01-01-2025, 01:26 PM -
Copying DMI information from an old bios to a new one is difficult for some members, often they have no experience with a hex editor,or some that have tried find it too hard.There is an option to make things easier for those members so that they don`t need to post their own bios backup for the DMI copying.
Experienced bios modding members can help by posting in other threads the DMI offsets,macro script generated by the software and a download link to the software at softpedia mentioned in this guide,or post your macros in the comments here with a link to the bios request thread .... -
First of all thanks to all of our members who have posted previously all methods posted here.
Please leave a comment if you find something new,or have anything else to add.
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