Before: GSC 2200uF
After: Sanyo MV-WX 2200uF
Nuff Said
After: Sanyo MV-WX 2200uF
Nuff Said
Attached Files
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Last edited by willawake; 01-21-2006, 03:19 PM."The one who says it cannot be done should never interrupt the one who is doing it." -
Re: Epox 8KRA2I
Looks much better
Are there any other GSCs on the board? -
Re: Epox 8KRA2I
looks good. but what are the other caps you missed? Sanyo MV-WX is a very good cap.
i am interested in the possibility of replacing badcap brand 1000uf 6.3 or 10v with Sanyo MV-WX 820uf 6.3v to get the 8mm width. I am wondering if this is feasible, their esr is very good.Comment
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Re: Epox 8KRA2I
All caps on this board are GSC... Though it has been in service for over 3 years now and it was only the VRM output caps that had failed so I think the remaining GSC's will last quite a while... I've only got GSC and TEAPO caps on my 8RDA3+ and it's been in 24/7 service for well over 3 years with no bulging or stability problems. Mind you this is a system running quietly (read: hot) and heavily overclocked"The one who says it cannot be done should never interrupt the one who is doing it."Comment
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Re: Epox 8KRA2I
The other GSC (at least the green ones) will go too, IMHO. Maybe soon, maybe later - it's one of the worst brands.Comment
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Re: Epox 8KRA2I
Hi Willawake. You question about replacing 1000u with 820u. It is probably OK, but it really depends on the design at that part of the circuit. Low ESR is always good, but a in circuit running with a light loading the importance diminishes. If by chance the circuit has low frequencies to bypass then capacitance is more important. I am currently using Samxon GC series to get 8mm.Last edited by willawake; 01-22-2006, 04:38 AM.Gigabyte EP45-DS3L Ultra Reliable (Power saver)
Intel E8400 (3000Mhz) Bios temps. 4096Mb 800Mhz DDR2 Corsair XMS2 4-4-4-12
160Gb WD SATAII Server grade
Nvidia 8500GT 256Mb
160Gb WD eSATAII Server grade for backup.
Samsung 18x DVD writer
Pioneer 16x DVD writer + 6x Dual layer
33 way card reader
Windows XP Pro SP3
Thermaltake Matrix case with 430W Silent Power
17" Benq FP737s LCD monitor
HP Officejet Pro K5300 with refillable tanksComment
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Re: Epox 8KRA2I
Yes I know... Call it an experiment; I want to see how long they last...Originally posted by Rainbow
Plus getting caps for the whole board is pretty expensive IMO
I mean there are the really cheap Intel compatible mobos with crap caps going for about the price of good caps for all spots on this mobo!"The one who says it cannot be done should never interrupt the one who is doing it."Comment
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Re: Epox 8KRA2I
Why would you want to? There are several good caps (Panasonic FC and FM; Nichicon HE and PW; United Chemi-Con KY and KZE) available in 1000μF, 10v size in 8mm width. All are 20mm long, and readily available. 6.3v is too close for my liking to 5v; I'd much rather use 10v units.Originally posted by willawakeComment
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Hey all I've been working on a 1984 Sanyo 27" color TV which had a smattering of bad caps in the video switching circuit. I found this oddball little 1uF 25V cap which looks to me like an early polymer, but I can't find concrete info proving it. I know Sanyo was a big player in early polymer cap development and this is the time period where they were just getting on the market, so I'm wondering if anyone has crusty old datasheets that could help identify it and determine if my suspicions are right? It has the same epoxy end seal and font/formatting as some old stock Os-Cons I've got laying...
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I know I've been a little scarce lately (like the last 2-3 years), but I'm still here and still doing my thing with fixing PSUs.
For today's considerations, I have a Seasonic B12 BC-550 [A551bcafh] 550 Watt ATX power supply for you (click on links for full size images).
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591771
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591772
It's a modern ATX unit with fixed (non-modular) cables and an 80-plus bronze certificate. Here's the label:
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=359177... -
Hi,
Recently I got an Epox EP-85 MVP3C-M board from scrap. After fixing the broken caps I powered it on without CPU and the jumpers set to 60Mhz FSB and 2x multiplier.
Sadly, Vcc3 was stuck at 3.54v regardless of jumpers. Vcc2 (Vi/o I think) was also the same voltage.
So, I've returned to the original configuration I got the board in - 100Mhz FSB and 4x multiplier. Voltages haven't changed at all.
What I've tried so far:
replace the original N-MOSFETs with beefier 60V ones for testing
Resolder the resistors near the Vcore Jumper block
Short Vcore...05-25-2025, 01:46 AM -
Hey All,
I have a Sanyo DP5834 that did have an issue with the backlights, but I disassembled the unit and repaired the LED strips by resoldering all of the connectors. Now I've reassembled it and I have backlights and sound, but a grayish screen. I can tap on the screen and see that it's on, but no picture. All voltages seem to be correct on the power board.
Based on the LCD Flat panel TV troubleshooting guide by Bud Martin, I'm thinking the T-Con has failed because I'm getting 12v both into and out of FP1 on the T-Con. Am I on the right track?
Thanks,... -
Hi again guys.
Today I have a problem with this Sanyo VCR.
I bought it online, It worked sometimes.
I recap the Power supply and it started working fine.
Image is perfect and all digital effects too.
All of a sudden it stopped outputting sound. I checked for dried solders an all boards and soldered when needed, no fix.
I have no sound on playback, on tuner, or aux in.
On symptom I noticed is when it was working fine, the HI-FI led was on when I power up the VCR, now is OFF, A-B leds are on but when I put a tape they go off.
On one of the sound processing...
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