Netgear Prosafe JGS516 switch with Delta Electronics ADP-40VP PSU board (fixed)

[Per Hansson]

Re: Netgear Prosafe JGS516 switch with Delta Electronics ADP-40VP PSU board (fixed)

If you want you can replace the whole PSU instead, I provided some sources for it below.
But it is likely it is a startup cap, read the whole thread I linked and the links within

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=53745

[elec-newb]

Re: Netgear Prosafe JGS516 switch with Delta Electronics ADP-40VP PSU board (fixed)

I guess I can spend 5 bucks and roll the dice...either that or throw it away.

http://www.amazon.com/Rubycon-Alumin...words=47uF+25V

[elec-newb]

Re: Netgear Prosafe JGS516 switch with Delta Electronics ADP-40VP PSU board (fixed)

I have this same switch/psu and it didn't come back online after it was off-line for a few hours. I have inspected the board/components as best I can and I don't see any visible damage. I have a multi-meter, but rarely work on electronics.

If I de-solder and remove the c3 cap, can I test to see if it is good (with my multi-meter) or is there another way to test it?

[linker3000]

Re: Netgear Prosafe JGS516 switch with Delta Electronics ADP-40VP PSU board (fixed)

Starting capacitor replaced - it was 47uF 25V

Thanks everyone for your input.

[momaka]

Re: Netgear Prosafe JGS516 switch with Delta Electronics ADP-40VP PSU board (fixed)

It looks like a 50V/63V one will be OK - does that sound reasonable?

Yes.
50V is what you will typically find for those caps, and 25V or 100V on very rare occasions.

The start-up cap can cause quite a bit of trouble, indeed. I've had a D-Link router power adapter fail like that. I changed all of the output caps and -nothing-. Then I changed the start-up cap, and voila! We're back in business again. (And probably should also mention that this power adapter wasn't my only experience with a startup cap going bad.)

[diif]

Re: Netgear Prosafe JGS516 switch with Delta Electronics ADP-40VP PSU board (fixed)

I fixed several of these identical power supplies a few weeks ago.
It's the small green cap that usually fails, mine had the big cap fail too.
I have a couple still here, i can measure the voltage later today for you.

[linker3000]

Re: Netgear Prosafe JGS516 switch with Delta Electronics ADP-40VP PSU board (fixed)

Yeah, it'll bug me if I don't do it anyway, so it'll come out soon! Any suggestions on working voltage as it's encased in the mounting goop from the 400V cap.

Edit: Since SMPSU design is one area of electronics I've not really 'got into' in the past, I've just done some reading up and it seems that the little 47uF startup cap can be the source of quite a bit of hassle!

It looks like a 50V/63V one will be OK - does that sound reasonable?

[Per Hansson]

Re: Netgear Prosafe JGS516 switch with Delta Electronics ADP-40VP PSU board (fixed)

Actually it's very common that it's that one small cap that is the reason a PSU like this one will not power back up after cooling down.
Reason is the ESR of a cold capacitor is worse vs one that is hot.
The small capacitor is used as a startup timing capacitor, so that's why it's important in only that stage...
So if it's the same next time it has been without power you know what to do

[linker3000]

Re: Netgear Prosafe JGS516 switch with Delta Electronics ADP-40VP PSU board (fixed)

I actually called it a day in the home workshop without doing the last cap - let's see if that comes back to bite me later!

[ReeceyBurger123]

Re: Netgear Prosafe JGS516 switch with Delta Electronics ADP-40VP PSU board (fixed)

Nice one probably best to replace that 47uf asap never know when it will go

[linker3000]

Typical symptoms: The switch had been powered up and working for several years and was then switched off for an office refurb, never to power up again. The unit contains a Delta ADP-40VP 5V 8A SMPSU board and the output measured 1.6V

There were 4 suspect caps with no outward signs of distress - all Ltec:

1 x 1500uF 10V - replaced with Panasonic 105C FR
3 x 2200uF 10V - replaced with Panasonic 105C FR

I decided I might as well replace the HV smoothing cap while I was in there (100uF 400V Ltec), so in went a Chemicon KXG.

There was also a small 47uF ??V (covered in white goop) which was given the benefit of the doubt as it would have required some major digging out. Right now the PSU/Switch is working again.

Pic is of the recapped board - the replacement Chemicon 100uF is slightly bigger than the original Ltec. If the unit plays up again, the 47uF is for the chop - heck, I might do it now anyway while I'm in the mood!

All the best etc.