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D-Link DGS-1016D won't turn on

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    #1

    D-Link DGS-1016D won't turn on

    At my work, one of our corporate switches died. When plugged in, not even the power light will light up. It's a D-Link DGS-1016D. I opened it up and visually it looks fine. It has a Delta PSU in it, can't read the primary but the secondary caps on it are Ltec. On the mainboard, it's plagued with the dreaded Evercon I took out both of the PCB's and nothing looks burned on the bottom of them. I checked this because the little cooling fan on the side went bad so I originally thought that something overheated.

    I won't have a multimeter till Monday but I'm wondering if this could even be a capacitor problem. I don't trust Evercon AT ALL, so I'm wondering if they died without showing symptoms since they are such garbage caps? Or even the Ltec's on the PSU, because I'm thinking if it won't even turn on that it's a PSU problem. Any input would be appreciated!
    Tags: None
    #2
    Re: D-Link DGS-1016D won't turn on

    Any ideas?

    Comment

      #3
      Re: D-Link DGS-1016D won't turn on

      Post pictures of the hardware here. As clear as possible.

      Check if there's a fuse on the board near power connector. Make sure the fuse isn't popped.
      It's possible the board uses a few linear regulators to generate 3.3v, 2.5, 1.8 v out of a higher voltage - check those regulators and see if they are ok.

      If you get some pictures online, again very clear, we may be able to suggest what to check for.


      the mains connector, if the switch is powered straight from mains. If the power supply (you say is delta) is similar to those laptop adapters, make sure it outputs some voltage.

      Comment

        #4
        Re: D-Link DGS-1016D won't turn on

        I'll have to wait till at least Tuesday because I had to leave it at work, but I remember checking the fuse and it's fine. Thanks for the reply!

        Comment

          #5
          Re: D-Link DGS-1016D won't turn on

          Later models of DGS-1016D and DGS-1024D have a lifetime warranty.

          One cap takes these switches down. Power supply C12 is the tiny cap next to the big input cap. You can't see it with the cap in but when you get it out you'll see heat damage which is why it goes bad. You can replace any other cap you like but that's the only cap I've ever seen go bad.

          Here's the work I did on the DGS-1024D which should have the same power supply.

          HW Ver A2

          Power Supply: NAD-116 12v 3.3A YCL PCB452-B
          IC1: Fairchild KA3882 SMPS CONTROLLER (KA3882CDTF)
          D3: OnSemi B20100G dual rectifier
          D3: E220A dual rectifier
          U3: UTC TL431 Shunt regulator
          Q1: Fairchild FQPF7N80C 800V N-Channel MOSFET
          C?: Nichicon PT 100uf 450v
          C11, C3: Ltec LZG 680uf 25v WV=12v ESR=0.04
          C4: Ltec LZG 470uf 25v WV=12v ESR=0.06
          C12: Ltec TK 47uf 50v WV=11.3v ESR>20
          R7: Resistor 18K measures 9K with IC1 in place
          IC?: Lite On LTV-817 LTV-817C LTV-817-C optoisolator (test with bench supply, compatible with Fairchild FOD817C)
          ZD1: more than 15.7v

          Unit does not power up. Fans will spin if push started. Power supply outputs 3v under load and 7v with load removed. C11, C3, C4 test good. I swap U3 with no change. C12 tests with excessive ESR. Then I notice the heat damage from C? to C12. Replacing C12 brings the output voltage up to 12v and restores operation.

          After a few minutes most of the port LEDs flash randomly.

          Main board: REV-A2

          U5, +U8 C15,C19:12v -> C22,C25:3.3v
          U12, +U13+U15 C57,C58:12v -> C38,C39,C48,C49:1.25v
          U21, +U16 C67,C68:12v -> C77,C78:2.5v
          U25, +U24 C126,C128:12v -> C137,C158:1.8v
          :Richtek RT9206 High Efficiency, Synchronous Buck with Dual Linear Controllers
          U13: Fairchild FDS7764A 30V N-Channel MOSFET
          U15: Fairchild FDS6694 30V N-Channel MOSFET
          U16: Fairchild FDS6986S Dual N-Channel MOSFET
          U24: Fairchild FDS6986S Dual N-Channel MOSFET (labeled FDS6990A)
          U8: Fairchild FDS6986S Dual N-Channel MOSFET
          U4: Philips 74AHC14D Hex inverting Schmitt trigger
          U11, U14: TI 74AHC04 Hex inverter
          U1: 24LC64 EEPROM
          U10: Pericom PI3VT3306 2-Bit, 2-Port, Low Voltage. Translator Bus Switch (incorrectly labeled P13VT3306L)
          U9: TI 74LC245A OCTAL BUS TRANSCEIVER WITH 3-STATE OUTPUTS
          U17, U18, U19, U20, U22, U23: Labeled: Broadcom BCM5014R quad Gigabit Ethernet 1000BASE-T phy
          U7: Labeled: Broadcom BCM5464 Quad Gigabit Ethernet 1000BASE-T phy (seems incorrectly labeled as it appears to be a 24 port switch without integrated Phy. Each set of 4 goes to a BCM5014R. More likely to be a BCM5345M.)
          D1, D2, D3, D4, D5: B340B SMD DIODE SCHOTTKY 40V 3A
          U26, U27: Lattice ispLSI 2064VE PLD Programmable Logic Device
          T1, T2, T3, T4: Bothhand G4P209 Quad Port 1000BASE-T Ethernet Transformer
          U28: Delta RJG-8FAP 4x2 8 port Ethernet jack with integrated 1000BASE-T Ethernet Transformers
          Fans: T&T 4010M12F ND8 12v 0.16A 40x10x10 mm 2 wire

          C137, C158, WV=1.8v
          C77, C78, WV=2.5v
          C38, C39, C48, C49, WV=1.25v
          C22, C25: Taicon PW 1000uf 10v WV=3.3v
          C133, WV=12v
          C160, C37, C4, WV=3.3v
          C132, C16, C10, WV=2.5v
          C9, C36, WV=1.25v
          C131: TBOR 100uf 25v WV=1.8v
          C79, WV=2.5v
          C124, C80: GSC 100uf 16v WV=1.25v
          C126, C128, C57, C58, C15, C19: TOBR 470uf 25v WV=12v
          C42, C44: GSC RE 1000uf 25v WV=12v
          C67, C68: Teapo SC 470uf 16v WV=12v
          C127, C24: TBOR 47uf 25v WV=12v
          C47, WV=1.25v
          C32, ROM-C5: Teapo SS 47uf 16v WV=3.3v

          The voltages with the ROM out have a lot more ripple than when the ROM is in. I ended up replacing a few caps.

          C42, C44, C57, C58: Rubycon MBZ 1500uf 16v

          I don't think the caps made any difference but the unit is running fine and the random flashing LEDs haven't returned.
          Attached Files
          sig files are for morons

          Comment

            #6
            Re: D-Link DGS-1016D won't turn on

            Wow, thank you very much for the very informative reply! Can't wait to take a look at it when I get back to work, hopefully it's an easy fix! They're pretty nice switches

            Comment

              #7
              Re: D-Link DGS-1016D won't turn on

              Going to post some pictures soon of it. But if I can get this thing working, should I replace the Evercon's just because they're Evercon's? Haha

              Comment

                #8
                Re: D-Link DGS-1016D won't turn on

                I got a chance to take a look at this thing (been busy) and when plugged in the power supply gives a high pitched whine. I don't remember it doing this before. And here are the long overdue pictures! Let me know if I need to get a more clear picture for any of them, it's hard to get perfect pics with my phone
                Attached Files
                Last edited by Pentium4; 10-23-2012, 01:08 PM.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Re: D-Link DGS-1016D won't turn on

                  So I'm getting DC voltage on those IC's, but nothing more than 0.7V on any of the pins and most are down around 0.25V. Does this indicate a problem with the power supply? Not even the power LED will light up on the front. Is it possible that those POS Evercon's dried up inside and stopped working?

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Re: D-Link DGS-1016D won't turn on

                    Originally posted by Pentium4 View Post
                    So I'm getting DC voltage on those IC's, but nothing more than 0.7V on any of the pins and most are down around 0.25V. Does this indicate a problem with the power supply? Not even the power LED will light up on the front. Is it possible that those POS Evercon's dried up inside and stopped working?
                    I suggest you replace all the caps in the switch. The psu caps, and the mainboard caps.

                    The whine gives it away - a dried up capacitor!
                    Muh-soggy-knee

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Re: D-Link DGS-1016D won't turn on

                      Originally posted by ben7 View Post
                      I suggest you replace all the caps in the switch. The psu caps, and the mainboard caps.

                      The whine gives it away - a dried up capacitor!
                      Awesome, that's good to know! I'll replace them all but do you think it's most likely one on the power supply that's causing issues?

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Re: D-Link DGS-1016D won't turn on

                        Originally posted by Pentium4 View Post
                        Awesome, that's good to know! I'll replace them all but do you think it's most likely one on the power supply that's causing issues?
                        Yeah.

                        Those 'evercon' caps aren't good either. Along with the other mix of brands on the mainboard
                        Muh-soggy-knee

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Re: D-Link DGS-1016D won't turn on

                          Hello, my name is Eric, i'm french and i've the same problem too.

                          My DGS-1024D won't turn on. Any leds blink.

                          i've the same hardware like 'pentium 4' and the power supply gives a low pitched. Power supplys outputs 12v without load.

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Re: D-Link DGS-1016D won't turn on

                            Originally posted by groulte View Post
                            Hello, my name is Eric, i'm french and i've the same problem too.

                            My DGS-1024D won't turn on. Any leds blink.

                            i've the same hardware like 'pentium 4' and the power supply gives a low pitched. Power supplys outputs 12v without load.
                            What does it output with load?

                            If it is making a buzzing sound, the high voltage filter capacitor might be dead.
                            Muh-soggy-knee

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Re: D-Link DGS-1016D won't turn on

                              Does anybody have a schematic for this board and the PSU please?

                              Git

                              Comment

                                #16
                                Re: D-Link DGS-1016D won't turn on

                                Old thread I know, but for anybody reading it, and are in the UK or can purchase from RS Components, I just repaired my DGS-1024D by replacing the power supply with an RS 764-7019 12Volt 3Amp open board PSU, and connector kit 764-7000. I also had to change a 105degC 470uF 25V cap that was bulging.

                                The PSU is made in China by "Mean Well" company and their part number is EPS-35-12. It has an output trimming pot, green LED and is 87% efficient. It is a bit smaller than the D-Link original at 3" by 2" with four fixing holes at 2.75" by 1.75". It will fit inside the outline of the old PSU and there is room for 4 new female to male type standoffs inside the old fixing points. So I drilled four holes, fitted mounting posts, mounted the board, fitted the new crimp connectors, plugged it in and it went through self test just fine. Plugged all machines back into it and it worked just fine. Gave me a real surprise just how fast the net seems, so maybe it had been failing in a way that affects speed.

                                Total cost was 28.62 UKP plus tax. There is a cheaper way, and that is to buy a 3 or 4Amp 12Volt encased power brick which are sold on Ebay for around 6 UKP to replace failed ASUS Monitor PSU's, and pull the open board PSU out of its case. I preferred the option of a known product from a reputable supplier with a 3 year warranty, but the ASUS replacement option is there if you want to save a few quid.

                                Datasheet :
                                http://temp-share.com/show/YgFHWw96y

                                Regards,
                                Git
                                Last edited by Git; 01-16-2013, 12:55 PM.

                                Comment

                                  #17
                                  Re: D-Link DGS-1016D won't turn on

                                  Just had another DGS-1016D here. It's the second unit with faulty caps on mainboard, not PSU.
                                  There are 8 of these nasty TEAPO SC caps on the mainboard, 6.3V 1000uF, all of them bulged.
                                  Not a nice job to solder on this board, don't bother with iron less than 50W. I even had PC mainboards that were easier to solder...

                                  Comment

                                    #18
                                    Re: D-Link DGS-1016D won't turn on

                                    Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but I want to thank the people above for posting their very useful information. It helped me repair my DLINK DGS-1024D. Thank you !

                                    Comment

                                      #19
                                      Re: D-Link DGS-1016D won't turn on

                                      Originally posted by patrickk View Post
                                      ... I want to thank the people above for posting their very useful information. It helped me repair my DLINK DGS-1024D. Thank you !
                                      Power supply's C12 was my problem as well. Spent 0.99 at Frys, 5 minute solder job and back in business. Thank you!

                                      Comment

                                        #20
                                        Re: D-Link DGS-1016D won't turn on

                                        I had an Allied Telesis AT-GS950/8 go down as well. Same psu, same problem. The heat had begun to peel the copper track off the PCB as well.

                                        Comment

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