scuse me bill i test it in ohm and the digital tester says "1. " this is a bad functionality?
A “1” on the left side of the display indicates the circuit is open or there is no connection between the 2 points you're measuring.
If you see a 0 on the right side of the display that means there is no resistance in the circuit, that would be the reading you would expect to see with the 2 DMM leads touching.
If you attach a picture of the transformer, He will be able to point to the pins you need to connect your leads to.
Whatever I do, I consider it a success, if in the end I am breathing, seeing, feeling and hearing!
A “1” on the left side of the display indicates the circuit is open or there is no connection between the 2 points you’re measuring.
If you see a 0 on the right side of the display that means there is no resistance in the circuit, that would be the reading you would expect to see with the 2 DMM leads touching.
If you attach a picture of the transformer, He will be able to point to the pins you need to connect your leads to.
THIS IS THE TRANSFORMER cod. IT-E19-NB4004B
tested side with 2 pin
THIS IS THE TRANSFORMER cod. IT-E19-NB4004B
tested side with 2 pin
Excellent. You measured the resistance between the two pins on the right end of the transformer. Set your DMM to the 2K Ohms range. If I read your initial measurement correctly, the ACTUAL resistance was about 550 ohms for the good transformer. Post a picture of the meter while you are making the reading.
It isn't unusual for a winding to break. That would give you a reading of open. If the transformer is bad, they are available on eBay for $9.00, including shipping.
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
The CCFL backlight fails after 5 minutes, switching on/off and this will give me 5 more minutes
The primary coil of the ccfl transformer measured a DC resitance of 450 ohms (not desoldered from board)
I'have already replaced the Elcaps exept the 1000uf ( but they looks fine and measured the right val)
It looks like i heave a thermal problem or my ccfl is failing
How can i test the ccfl
i can disconnect one ccfl pair and see what happens
I had worked on HP W XX series with bad lamp wirings, some of them be running for 3~4 hours before he baclights go out, found that the wires to the end of the lamps were just touching the lamp's end terminals, after heat up the wire will no loger make contact with the end of the lamp due to heat expansion. Fiex many of these HP W series from 17~22" all with the same failure.
You need to make at least two test lamps to verifiy the inverter board functions otherwise you will be spending lots of time try to figure out if you have lamp or board problem. http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/y...HP/HP%20W1907/ http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/y...m/HP/HP%20W22/
If you think you have a thermal problem, try accelerating the shutdown process using a blow dryer. Heat up various sections of the board to try and isolate the area that causing the shutdown.
It's 2016, and I've got a dead one of these with the T50P050.00 psu. Found the service manual here :
Mosfet 7103 s/c, 15v zener 6105 s/c, resistors 3117, 3154 ,3118, 3155 all high (all originally R51 or 0.51 ohm on my board), all electrolytics high esr except for 1000u 25v caps for some reason but all changed to be sure. Waiting for delivery of first 3 items to, hopefully, complete repair.
Forgot to say that NCP1203D60 current mode controller (7100) was also u/s.
All working again, would have been quicker to pay $20 for a new board.
But not so much fun.
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