Hello. I'm going to try and attack several question in a single post. For starters I am somewhat new, yet not at the same time...
To begin, I am trying to repair my LCD monitor and Nintendo DS Lite. The Lite we'll get to later as it's somewhat off topic.
My LCD is a Samsung SyncMaster 216BW. It has experienced the classic screen-flicker problems that scattered these forums. A detailed explanation is as follows… If the monitor was plugged in continuously and ever turned off, turning it back on, if not instantly, would result in the screen-flicker to black image after a few seconds. The power button would remain illuminated. When the screen went black a slight wine or chirp would occur. I would then proceed to press the screens source button where it would search for an analog or DVI signal. Once the DVI signal was noticed the screen would flicker the image for a moment, project the full image less of flickering, and than go black, all while the power button remained illuminated. I would repeat this process over and over for several minutes until the image "stuck". It felt as if certain components had to heat up. I am now learning that this is either caps or CCFLs… I think at least.
To continue detailing what was happening… If the monitor was ever kept unplugged from power for an extended period of time, say when moving. Upon trying to turn it on it would neither flicker the source signal, nor even notice it. The process of getting an image from my computer would take significantly longer, with a rotation of pressing the source button, power button, and just praying to some either god would finally bring the monitor back. Once a signal was noticed, the above paragraph would repeat itself. This was just noted that if the monitor was, I guess, power-cycled, it wouldn't even notice the source signal or attempt to display any sort of image for a good while. I would just receive the bouncing "no signal" box.
Finally, if I ever placed the computer to sleep and left the monitor on, it would of course go black. However, the power button usually flashes on and off when the system is asleep. At least this is how I remember it to act. However, once the above problems began, the flashing blue power button was accompanied with a wine while flashing on, over and over until chaos set loose and I just turned the monitor off knowing what fun cycle awaited me in the morning to pull an image back up.
So now the repair steps. I have disassembled the monitor and gotten myself into some trouble, sort of. For one the power board has caps that are not perfectly flat. Not brown fluid, but bulging CapXon caps. A few of these caps are flat, the very little ones from what I'm seeing, and Big Bertha laying on her side glued down. From what I can identify is as follows:
CapXon:
5 - 820uF 25v (Green)
1 - 100uF 450v (Purple)
1 - 22uF 50v (Baby Blue)
1- 47uF 50v (Red)
1 - 2.2uF 50v (Blue)
1 - 330uF 25v (Yello)
By disassemble I mean literally everything taken apart. I was wondering if anyone know of a schematic manual to a general LCD setup… or this specific monitor (Samsung SyncMaster 216BW)… I'm just worried that I've messed up the order of the plastic polarized sheets that lay over the plastic panel below the actual LCD panel. Although guess and check should solve the problem.
I also have a question of this rogue black cylinder-ish cap sitting in the cluster of 820's. What is it? Should I replace it? Image is attached with a big orange question mark.
However, my other reason for wanting a schematic or at least parts list is for the 2 CCFL brackets with paired tubes. You see all the forum reading I've done suggests to first replace caps, than check bulbs. However, after disassembly I stumbled on my way back to my bench and managed to break a bulb by bracing a near fall accidentally against it… I know, I got a bit of a laugh out of the situation myself. I can't seem to find my calipers right now to get a good measurement but from what I can gather with a tape measure they're about 19 inches long. Diameter I can't figure all that well. I have to replace these now. I was wondering if anyone know whether they are UV, simply white, or full spectrum. An eyeball view signals white, but I'm clueless when it comes to these. Furthermore if anyone knows possible start and operating voltages, current, and output information that would be a huge help… or how to find it. Another reason for schematics. o.O Ultimately, these come in pairs, sitting in a bracket. 2 brackets cap the plastic sheet on top and bottom. I would prefer purchasing the bulbs with bracket assembly but this only seems like I'll get more Chinese junk that will fail faster. So where would I turn to for good bulbs once I identify these?
Lastly comes the soldering. I've soldered before but not in a while. I don't have an iron anymore, I used one at my old university… a very nice Weller. I'm not interested in breaking the bank but I understand for quality usually some money must be spent. So what does everyone suggest? Where should I buy from? And tips to use in the iron? Chisel seems to be what everyone suggests. I'd like a nice very precise pencil point as well, I used that when I did chip leg work a good while back. From what I've gathered I should aim for a 60W temperature controlled device, but which one! ^.^
My DS Lite question will come in a follow up post. This wall-of-text has reached beyond its limits and I feel people are beginning to curse at my post. So… In summation my questions are as follows:
1. Do I replace each cap, including the behemoth 100uF one? The 2.2uF and the 330uF were very hard to read, do they seem correct? I'm 99.9% sure of the 2.2 but not of the 330, an experts reassurance would be awesome. I'm assuming each cap is ceramic? What brand should I use?
2. Mystery cylinder, what is it? Replace?
3. CCFLs for this Samsung SyncMaster 216BW, where to start? How do I get values? Where to buy? Any part supplier someone know of?
4. Soldering irons? What kind? Suggestions?
Maybe I should have bulleted the questions? Anyway, thank you everyone for your time with this post. If anyone has any knowledge of trimmer potentiometers that'll be the topic of my DS Lite question post… But I digress. Thank you again. Any and all help is appreciated!
To begin, I am trying to repair my LCD monitor and Nintendo DS Lite. The Lite we'll get to later as it's somewhat off topic.
My LCD is a Samsung SyncMaster 216BW. It has experienced the classic screen-flicker problems that scattered these forums. A detailed explanation is as follows… If the monitor was plugged in continuously and ever turned off, turning it back on, if not instantly, would result in the screen-flicker to black image after a few seconds. The power button would remain illuminated. When the screen went black a slight wine or chirp would occur. I would then proceed to press the screens source button where it would search for an analog or DVI signal. Once the DVI signal was noticed the screen would flicker the image for a moment, project the full image less of flickering, and than go black, all while the power button remained illuminated. I would repeat this process over and over for several minutes until the image "stuck". It felt as if certain components had to heat up. I am now learning that this is either caps or CCFLs… I think at least.
To continue detailing what was happening… If the monitor was ever kept unplugged from power for an extended period of time, say when moving. Upon trying to turn it on it would neither flicker the source signal, nor even notice it. The process of getting an image from my computer would take significantly longer, with a rotation of pressing the source button, power button, and just praying to some either god would finally bring the monitor back. Once a signal was noticed, the above paragraph would repeat itself. This was just noted that if the monitor was, I guess, power-cycled, it wouldn't even notice the source signal or attempt to display any sort of image for a good while. I would just receive the bouncing "no signal" box.
Finally, if I ever placed the computer to sleep and left the monitor on, it would of course go black. However, the power button usually flashes on and off when the system is asleep. At least this is how I remember it to act. However, once the above problems began, the flashing blue power button was accompanied with a wine while flashing on, over and over until chaos set loose and I just turned the monitor off knowing what fun cycle awaited me in the morning to pull an image back up.
So now the repair steps. I have disassembled the monitor and gotten myself into some trouble, sort of. For one the power board has caps that are not perfectly flat. Not brown fluid, but bulging CapXon caps. A few of these caps are flat, the very little ones from what I'm seeing, and Big Bertha laying on her side glued down. From what I can identify is as follows:
CapXon:
5 - 820uF 25v (Green)
1 - 100uF 450v (Purple)
1 - 22uF 50v (Baby Blue)
1- 47uF 50v (Red)
1 - 2.2uF 50v (Blue)
1 - 330uF 25v (Yello)
By disassemble I mean literally everything taken apart. I was wondering if anyone know of a schematic manual to a general LCD setup… or this specific monitor (Samsung SyncMaster 216BW)… I'm just worried that I've messed up the order of the plastic polarized sheets that lay over the plastic panel below the actual LCD panel. Although guess and check should solve the problem.
I also have a question of this rogue black cylinder-ish cap sitting in the cluster of 820's. What is it? Should I replace it? Image is attached with a big orange question mark.
However, my other reason for wanting a schematic or at least parts list is for the 2 CCFL brackets with paired tubes. You see all the forum reading I've done suggests to first replace caps, than check bulbs. However, after disassembly I stumbled on my way back to my bench and managed to break a bulb by bracing a near fall accidentally against it… I know, I got a bit of a laugh out of the situation myself. I can't seem to find my calipers right now to get a good measurement but from what I can gather with a tape measure they're about 19 inches long. Diameter I can't figure all that well. I have to replace these now. I was wondering if anyone know whether they are UV, simply white, or full spectrum. An eyeball view signals white, but I'm clueless when it comes to these. Furthermore if anyone knows possible start and operating voltages, current, and output information that would be a huge help… or how to find it. Another reason for schematics. o.O Ultimately, these come in pairs, sitting in a bracket. 2 brackets cap the plastic sheet on top and bottom. I would prefer purchasing the bulbs with bracket assembly but this only seems like I'll get more Chinese junk that will fail faster. So where would I turn to for good bulbs once I identify these?
Lastly comes the soldering. I've soldered before but not in a while. I don't have an iron anymore, I used one at my old university… a very nice Weller. I'm not interested in breaking the bank but I understand for quality usually some money must be spent. So what does everyone suggest? Where should I buy from? And tips to use in the iron? Chisel seems to be what everyone suggests. I'd like a nice very precise pencil point as well, I used that when I did chip leg work a good while back. From what I've gathered I should aim for a 60W temperature controlled device, but which one! ^.^
My DS Lite question will come in a follow up post. This wall-of-text has reached beyond its limits and I feel people are beginning to curse at my post. So… In summation my questions are as follows:
1. Do I replace each cap, including the behemoth 100uF one? The 2.2uF and the 330uF were very hard to read, do they seem correct? I'm 99.9% sure of the 2.2 but not of the 330, an experts reassurance would be awesome. I'm assuming each cap is ceramic? What brand should I use?
2. Mystery cylinder, what is it? Replace?
3. CCFLs for this Samsung SyncMaster 216BW, where to start? How do I get values? Where to buy? Any part supplier someone know of?
4. Soldering irons? What kind? Suggestions?
Maybe I should have bulleted the questions? Anyway, thank you everyone for your time with this post. If anyone has any knowledge of trimmer potentiometers that'll be the topic of my DS Lite question post… But I digress. Thank you again. Any and all help is appreciated!
Attached Files
But today, I’m making an exception here. Why? No idea. Perhaps only because the repair details are still “fresh” in my head… which is ironic, given this is a 16 year old monitor that hardly anyone will care about today. It is new to me, though. 
I picked it up last November from someone on my local Craigslist. It wasn’t very close to where I live, but was close to a family friend that I had to go visit anyways. So after watching the posting on Craigslist for a few weeks and seeing it getting...
Comment