I use isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush (not mine or my wife's ).
PlainBill
Bill - I tried an old toothbrush that was dipped in water (before I posted my question about cleaning the residue in this thread yesterday) but that didnt remove the residue at all. Maybe ISA will be better.
Would appreciate some follow-up clarifications:
What is the risk in not cleaning the residue from the board? Just asking as I will need to disassemble the monitor again to get to the inverter board.
I understand ISA is supposed to be highly flammable. How long does it take for it to evaporate and loose its "flammability" so I can reconnect the monitor to the power?
Can I use 91% isopropyl alcohol purchased from walmart, target, etc? Or do I need some better grade ISA and where can I purchase that
Minimum quantity ISA available at stores is 16oz. Since I do not anticipate using it very often, I wonder if I can purchase smaller quantity elsewhere to minimize fire hazard since this is supposed to be highly flammable?
Are there other products one may already have that could be used in lieu of ISA for cleaning the board? e.g. I use this ArcticClean
to clean off the thermal paste from CPUs when building computers. Can this be used to clean the residue? Just trying to minimize purchasing/storing flammable stuff that I may not use that frequently.
Bill - I tried an old toothbrush that was dipped in water (before I posted my question about cleaning the residue in this thread yesterday) but that didnt remove the residue at all. Maybe ISA will be better.
Would appreciate some follow-up clarifications:
What is the risk in not cleaning the residue from the board? Just asking as I will need to disassemble the monitor again to get to the inverter board.
Fairly low. The biggest problem is the residue is sticky and tends to accumulate a coating which may be conductive, especially in high humidity.
Originally posted by topperdude
I understand ISA is supposed to be highly flammable. How long does it take for it to evaporate and loose its "flammability" so I can reconnect the monitor to the power?
The common abbreviation is IPA. "Highly flammable" is perhaps exaggerating the danger. It's less flammable that methanol ("Wood alcohol") or Ethanol ("Grain Alcohol", "Everclear"). Certainly I would not suggest smoking while using it (but I might be tempted to use it to douse a smoker). As far as trying time, once the board feels dry, it's gone.
Originally posted by topperdude
Can I use 91% isopropyl alcohol purchased from walmart, target, etc? Or do I need some better grade ISA and where can I purchase that
I use 91% purchased from Walgreens. Make sure the brand you buy does not have any additives like glycerin.
Originally posted by topperdude
Minimum quantity ISA available at stores is 16oz. Since I do not anticipate using it very often, I wonder if I can purchase smaller quantity elsewhere to minimize fire hazard since this is supposed to be highly flammable?
Again, not highly flammable. Keep the bottle closed tightly, and in a well ventilated area. Don't use it as a substitute for the cooking sherry. And it wouldn't work in a Molotov cocktail.
Originally posted by topperdude
Are there other products one may already have that could be used in lieu of ISA for cleaning the board? e.g. I use this ArcticClean
to clean off the thermal paste from CPUs when building computers. Can this be used to clean the residue? Just trying to minimize purchasing/storing flammable stuff that I may not use that frequently.
Thanks again,
-Topper
One fellow I knew used brake pad cleaner. It really strips off the flux. Just spray it on and the flux is washed off. The concern there is what else might get stripped off. Definitely to be used only in a well ventilated area. I DON'T recommend it.
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
Fairly low. The biggest problem is the residue is sticky and tends to accumulate a coating which may be conductive, especially in high humidity.
Thanks for clearing up the (mis-)information I must have picked up elsewhere!
Originally posted by PlainBill
The common abbreviation is IPA.
It must have been one of those times when my brain is thinking IPA and the hands are typing ISA
Originally posted by PlainBill
"Highly flammable" is perhaps exaggerating the danger. It's less flammable that methanol ("Wood alcohol") or Ethanol ("Grain Alcohol", "Everclear"). Certainly I would not suggest smoking while using it (but I might be tempted to use it to douse a smoker). As far as trying time, once the board feels dry, it's gone.
Thanks for clearing up another bit of (mis-)information. I do not smoke but know some non-smokers who might be tempeted to use it to douse a smoker as well
Originally posted by PlainBill
I use 91% purchased from Walgreens. Make sure the brand you buy does not have any additives like glycerin.
Thank you for the tip on glycerin. Come to think of it - we (finally) got a Walgreens locally and this could be a good reason to stop by
Originally posted by PlainBill
Again, not highly flammable. Keep the bottle closed tightly, and in a well ventilated area. Don't use it as a substitute for the cooking sherry. And it wouldn't work in a Molotov cocktail.
One fellow I knew used brake pad cleaner. It really strips off the flux. Just spray it on and the flux is washed off. The concern there is what else might get stripped off. Definitely to be used only in a well ventilated area. I DON'T recommend it.
Thanks - at this point (with the apparent low risk from not cleaning the flux residue), I am leaning towards leaving it as is (for now). As mentioned in point #2 of this post, I wouldnt be surprized if sometime down the road, after fixing few other "dead" electronics gadgets (incl the Ethernet over power adapter mentioned earlier in this thread) and practicing (de-)soldering, I get the itch to re-open this monitor and re-do the soldering and clean things up a bit.
Plus, the WAF would be much higher if this (geeky tear apart tinkering) kind of work is done in my (hopefully soon to be setup) workshop (aka unused portion of utility room in basement) than in the main living area of the house
Plus, the WAF would be much higher if this (geeky tear apart tinkering) kind of work is done in my (hopefully soon to be setup) workshop (aka unused portion of utility room in basement) than in the main living area of the house
Thanks as always,
-Topper
A suitable, DEDICATED work area is always nice. Some 30+ years ago we moved into a new house and added an attached garage. It was 24' x 36' and included a 12' x 24' workshop for my electronics repair activities. This was a step up from my Dad's practice. At any time he might bring something in and drop it on the kitchen table and work on it there (Mom was not pleased).
The only downside of my workshop was it was in the path from the kitchen to the garage, so items would mysteriously appear and disappear from the workshop. I have since moved, and don't have the dedicated space. Currently I am repairing large screen TVs, and am able to exact retribution. I do a lot of the work with the TV sitting on the dining room table. As a means to promote harmony I am making plans to move the operation into the unused bedroom. I am seriously considering the benefits of having a lock on the door so it is no longer a dumping area.
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
A small follow-up question to these. A small piece on the Delta Power Supply DAC-19M009AF marked L101 on the mainboard, on the component itself is marked 3R3. From everything I can find I believe it to be a Non-Shielded Style D Power Inductor. I accidentally broke this part trying to break the white glue free from the capacitor next to it. I'm trying to find an exact replacement for it from mouser or digikey but can't narrow down all the options. Any suggestions on a part number?
Without knowing the original specification it's hard to say.
I can only think to get an inductor the same value of the same style with the same approximate size or a little larger. Going smaller you risk burning it out if it can't handle the current.
Next time try heating the glue with a hot air tool, it can soften it and help removal.
"Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
-David VanHorn
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