Gateway FPD2185W

[Sporktek]

Re: Gateway FPD2185W

That being said, how difficult/feasible would it be to completely disable the HV lamp drivers and add in an led driver circuit and replace the CFL tubes with LEDs?

[Sporktek]

Re: Gateway FPD2185W

... Got a datasheet for the PWM regulator (BIT3193), cut the lead to CLAMP pin (14) and shorted it to ground, then cut the lead to ISEN pin (15) and connected it to VDD, thus disabling the overvoltage and open-load protection.

Without looking at the datasheet, would I be correct in assuming that cutting and grounding the clamp pin disables over-voltage protection and that cutting ISEN and pulling it up to VDD disables open-load protection?

If that's the case, would it be a valuable troubleshooting measure to disable one protection, test, then disable the other and test to isolate issues that trip only over-voltage or open-load?

[coromonadalix]

Re: Gateway FPD2185W

hello this site was a great help for me, does anyone could send me a near shot of r221 r222 near u204, i've damaged a resistor and i need to have the value of the two to be sure, the monitor won't power because of the defective crtl line thanks

[Pa3PyX]

Re: Gateway FPD2185W

There are six lamps. One side of each lamp connects to a bigger transformer. The other side connects to a smaller transformer, which appears to be only for sensing (although I could be wrong).

Probably for starting them too?

I swapped the returns so that the second bulb (small black wire) feeds the single lamp sensing circuit and the first one (small yellow) feeds the five piece circuit. Turns out the first bulb was pretty worn, and was making the protection trip.

This design uses the current through one CCFL to set the current for all six.

Having a similar problem with the same model here -- 2 seconds up then black, but happening intermittently for quite some time; powering of and back on sometimes helps, other times doesn't... with the frequency of the latter increasing over time.

After isolating the problem to the CCFL circuit, tested each CCFL separately by leaving their leads connected, unplugging all others; each bulb would light up before the protection kicks in (of course, leads of the other transformers would arc in the meantime)... There never was a flicker (which would indicate some bulbs going out repeatedly) and none of the leads are short to others. So, decided not to take apart the flat panel itself, since there are plastic locks all over the place and it seemed like a high chance of accidentally ripping the matrix signal leads (with obvious consequences).

Concluded that the CCFLs are worn and trip the overvoltage protection (after all, this thing has seen 7 years of use). Got a datasheet for the PWM regulator (BIT3193), cut the lead to CLAMP pin (14) and shorted it to ground, then cut the lead to ISEN pin (15) and connected it to VDD, thus disabling the overvoltage and open-load protection.

Works for the moment, not sure for how long -- talk about fixing things by turning off alarms. Next time this thing breaks, it should be with sparks and smoke, just like old TVs (you know it's time to replace the flyback transformer once it catches fire).

[selldoor]

Re: Gateway FPD2185W

Does any member know the value for R107 on the power supply board, mine is reading 51.2Kohms. Thanks in advance.

Picture? position? Markings? Board part number?

[elegey]

Re: Gateway FPD2185W

Does any member know the value for R107 on the power supply board, mine is reading 51.2Kohms. Thanks in advance.

[blunose5]

Re: Gateway FPD2185W

Got my caps from Digi-Key, going to do the work soon. Will report back afterwards..

[selldoor]

Re: Gateway FPD2185W

As above but I will add the instructions on how to post pics.
Welcome to the forum-
We can help a lot more if you please post good clear pictures (without Flash if possible) of the whole chassis, and then pictures of each board, front and back and close up of connectors, (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) using the manage attachments button, which is found by clicking "go advanced" under quick reply.

Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.

Examples of what is needed
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1290283049

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...7&d=1280167246

[retiredcaps]

Re: Gateway FPD2185W

Changed all the caps and now the power won't even come on.

1) If you used Radio Shack caps, they are likely general purpose caps and not low ESR caps. The difference between the 2 in terms of ESR can be an order of magnitude (10x).

2) Reseat and check all your connections.

3) Check all your soldering. Give each cap a gentle tug to make sure they are soldered in firmly.

4) Check the polarity of all your caps to ensure they were installed correctly.

[blunose5]

Re: Gateway FPD2185W

Wish i could figure out whats wrong now. Changed all the caps and now the power won't even come on. Not sure what i did...??

[budm]

Re: Gateway FPD2185W

It is a tilt sensor Opto-isolator with transistor output.
https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...73be29385b.pdf
You are hearing ball moving inside.

[blunose5]

Re: Gateway FPD2185W

From everything that I have read so far, I would guess that using caps from Radio Shack was a bad idea? I think I may have found this site too late..
Also, the logic board ( 200-100-GJ2012 ) seems to have a part that rattles. a small black box on the far side of the video connections ( RBS31 )?? Can anyone identify that part?

[2dfx]

Re: Gateway FPD2185W

4) Here are the rest of the reasons why you should not post inline

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...5&postcount=12

There are many good points, along with many poor ones to this link. While I agree with Canadian stringent BW caps & the fact that offsite hosting comes and goes, I cannot sympathize for slow loading and small screens.

Inline-posting (or lack thereof) is not stated anywhere in the rules or the FAQ. Can be confusing for new users here, no? If the forum rules/FAQ is where new members go for a concrete starting point for etiquette in a forum, it is poorly written and needs to be updated.

Beyond that, effective websites & forums have options for scaling to a user's particular platform whether it be low-bandwidth, high-bandwidth, or mobile devices. This forum currently supports none of those features. vBulletin is highly scalable in this regard with many no cost options available. Even if it costs a little here and there to ensure a workable user experience, as it states in the rules "this website is a business". Investing in a better user experience results in less headaches and frustrations for all members.

Regarding the previous posts...again, if I had the ability to edit my own posts, I would. But in the confines of what this forum lets its users do, and not do, I am stuck with my original posting scheme.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Gateway FPD2185W

At first yes, but the resizing fixes the alignment after the page loads...unless your screen resolution is something ridiculous like 480x320 of course.

At first I wasn't going to say anything, but now I have to.

1) In my original response, my sig file clearly says not to post inline pictures. I also mentioned to see misc suggestion 1. In that paragraph, it also says not to post inline pictures. So TWICE, I ask people not to post inline. I even use the word PLEASE.

2) While loading your inline images on my 10 inch netbook, my CPU went to 70% CPU solid for more than 60 seconds while loading and resizing your pictures. During that entire time, I can't read or do anything else because my screen goes nuts and my keyboard/mouse is unresponsive.

3) On my dual core AMD X2 CPU, it took 15 to 20 seconds of resizing, shifting the screen, etc before I could even get this reply display box. This monitor runs at 1280x1024.

4) Here are the rest of the reasons why you should not post inline

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...5&postcount=12

5) With manage attachments, I can "opt in" to view the pictures at higher resolution. With inline, I have no option but to view and load your pictures again and again even though I just saw them 20 minutes ago or 2 hours ago or 2 days ago. My memory isn't what it used to be, but it isn't that bad.

6) And, I don't know if this is coincidence or not, buy my browser (Opera 11.60) just crashed on this thread.

[2dfx]

Re: Gateway FPD2185W

Good for you. Right now I wish I could reach through my monitor and throttle you. The $@#@$#%@$ oversize pictures you post inline really mess up the thread.

PlainBill

At first yes, but the resizing fixes the alignment after the page loads...unless your screen resolution is something ridiculous like 480x320 of course. Perhaps if badcaps was hosted on an internet connection with some decent speed that doesn't make me wait minutes for attachments and allows me to browse the forum with ease, then perhaps I wouldn't have opted to do that first.

Heck, I'm doing the site a service by using bandwidth I paid for instead of wasting bandwidth paid for by the site.

Use 'Manage Attachments' - below the text entry area.

I will do so in future. I would do it for my previous post, but it seems I cannot edit posts.

[PlainBill]

Re: Gateway FPD2185W

Good for you. Right now I wish I could reach through my monitor and throttle you. The $@#@$#%@$ oversize pictures you post inline really mess up the thread. Use 'Manage Attachments' - below the text entry area.

PlainBill

[2dfx]

Re: Gateway FPD2185W

Just finished disassembling my LCD panel. You wanna see bad CCFL's? Have a look at the top bank:



The other side:



Here are the connections on each side:




The bottom bank was not so bad, but will probably be replaced anyway:



The other side:



Looks like I found the problem in my monitor. Will be ordering new CCFL's soon. The question is, do those wires looks good? They do seem a little charred.

[baysailor]

Re: Gateway FPD2185W

I ordered the capacitors from Digikey, including the logic board caps. I will post back after I have received and installed the new caps. It sounds like taking the LCD panel apart is tricky, so I am hoping the caps solve the problem.

Thanks for your help

[TheHarbinger]

Re: Gateway FPD2185W

An update and a question.

I parked this monitor for a while and went back to it last night. I'd pulled a set of fluorescents off another display that were good (but the LCD was cracked) to use for testing. To remind myself of the exact problem I powered up the FPD2185W.
- I could hear some distinct but faint sizzling sounds coming from the bottom edge of the LCD panel.
-The monitor would power up for approximately 8 seconds before the backlights turned off.

The spare backlights I'd pulled all had 2-pin connectors, and I realized that one set of lights for the top and bottom edges of the LCD had 5-pin connectors. I knew I couldn't test them all, but just as a what-the-hell gesture I unplugged the single bottom-edge 2-pin connector from the main PC board (as you look at the board with the LCD connectors on the right, this would be the bottom-most connector) and plugged one of the test lights in its place. I then powered up the monitor again.

Interesting find: the external light stayed on for about 8 seconds before going off with the others, but the sizzling sound moved from the light(s) inside the LCD's bottom edge to the external light. I could place my ear to the bottom of the panel and hear no noise; when I held the external light to my ear I heard the sizzling sound. I tested this with the other three spare lights, all with the same results.

So would it be safe to say that the problem in this case wouldn't be with the backlights themselves but is still with the inverter board?

Postscript to this botched affair...

I took some other advice in this thread and finally disassembled the panel itself. (Note to anyone disassembling an LCD panel: make sure that when you pull out the plastic sheets between the LCD itself and the thick, clear lightboard material that you pull them all off at once, keep them together, and note which way you pulled them off and which side faces the back of the panel.) Two of the three tubes in the bottom CCFL strip had blackened ends; additionally, one of the return wires was blackened near the solder point and snapped off easily. One of the other wires wasn't black but it also came off easily.

I ordered three new tubes and, while I was waiting, tried pulling the silicone caps off. On the return wire end the cap was "stuck," probably partially melted. It ripped into several pieces when I tried pulling it off. I also ordered eight 3-tube silicone end caps from CCFL Warehouse that weren't an exact fit and had to be trimmed to fit. Good thing I ordered eight--I mis-cut five of them. That silicone material is hard to cut even with a new and sharp X-acto blade. When the tubes arrived I repaired and reassembled the bottom tube strip then put the panel back together. In my earlier post I'd mentioned that the panel, when it was on, would display some vertical colored columns of apparently dead pixels. This I guessed was due to bad connections from the thin mylar panel connectors that were glued to the controller board on back of the panel assembly. When I tested the panel I saw a lot more of those, as well as a scrambled picture on the panel. I gently reheated each mylar connection point with a hair dryer and carefully burnished the connection with a flexible plastic wand used for applying rub-on lettering.

When I powered the panel up again I got a very faint scrambled picture, lots of lines, nothing recognizable. I lifted the panel itself off the lightbox and saw lots of flourescent light behind it, so the backlight problem was fixed. However, the panel itself seems to now be toast.

I learned some things when doing this one (as well as accidentally destroying the panel on a 22" Viewsonic LCD HDTV I was also working on at the time). If I find another unit of either model I may try this again, but for now I think I'll stay away from disassembling panels. If it's cap related I know I can do it. The panels themselves require a steady hand and some special joojoo to repair and I apparently don't have any of it...

[baysailor]

Re: Gateway FPD2185W

All the caps in the kit are approved series except that the Rubycon series is YXF.