Gateway 24" LCD Model LP2407

[USchabon]

Re: Gateway 24" LCD Model LP2407

Awesome! Thank you so much for your incredibly helpful reply Momaka.

I just put in an order for this soldering kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/371301467949.
That was way cheaper than I thought it would be, and seems to be a complete all in one solution making it easier for me.

Wow, not bad at all for someone new at this.

Looks like you got mostly Nichicon PW series capacitors, which are generally well-suited for SMPS (switch-mode power supply). The Panasonic FC and FM are also good choices.
Only the p13478-nd (Panasonic EB seires) is a general purpose cap (i.e. not low ESR). But it's a replacement for one of the small capacitors, so it should be okay.

Nothing wrong I see with that order, really.

Thanks! Though there was a hole lot of cheating off a previous post

I am a bit confused looking back, I think I might have not ordered the big cap or the ones on the LCD board. I am going to take a look at my order and reply/edit this post in a few minutes.

EDIT:
I can see that I did order 4 of the 470uF 35V caps, so I am good there, but it doesn't look like I ordered the big one, which seems to be a 450v 150uF. I guess I'll replace all of the other ones first, and see what happens.

[momaka]

Re: Gateway 24" LCD Model LP2407

I still feel a little lost but I went ahead and placed this order based on what other's ordered.
...
Here is my order:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1465670882

Wow, not bad at all for someone new at this.

Looks like you got mostly Nichicon PW series capacitors, which are generally well-suited for SMPS (switch-mode power supply). The Panasonic FC and FM are also good choices.
Only the p13478-nd (Panasonic EB seires) is a general purpose cap (i.e. not low ESR). But it's a replacement for one of the small capacitors, so it should be okay.

Nothing wrong I see with that order, really.

[momaka]

Re: Gateway 24" LCD Model LP2407

Hi USchabon, welcome to the BCN forums!

I bought a cheap multimeter recently, and though I am not sure how to test the caps I am game if someone would help me figure that out.

While a multimeter is a great tool to have for troubleshooting electrical/electronics problems (if not the best), you can't really use it to test for bad capacitors. To do that, you need an ESR + capacitance meter.

Most "dedicated" ESR/cap meters like the ESR-micro and Anatek-Blue are somewhat expensive and not really worth getting just to fix a single LCD monitor. Cheaper alternatives do exist, though, such as the open-source ATMEGA-based ESR meter like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/128-64-ESR-M...sAAOSwpdpVX9Ku

But you don't really need an ESR meter to troubleshoot your monitor. Just change all of the capacitors (sans the big high-voltage one, unless it has corrosion on the leads) if they are from a bad or cheapo brand. Or to put this into a different perspective, any capacitor that is not made by:
Rubycon
Nichicon
Panasonic (i.e. Matsushita, which means you will see a small [M] logo)
United Chemicon (small squished interstate-like logo)
Sanyo (beware of many fakes online)
Fujitsu
....... should be considered for replacement.

I see lots of Su'scon and a few Teapo on your power board - all of those need to go (except for the big cap). Looks like the failed Su'scon have "SG" written on them. That would be their series name. If you look for "Su'scon SG" online, you should hopefully get to this datasheet:

This should tell you the ESR/impedance and ripple current (RC) specifications for the capacitors you have (these are the other two important parameters besides the capacitance and voltage ratings).

In general, you pick capacitors in the following manner:
Same or next higher voltage rating
Same or next higher capacitance rating
Same or higher ripple current
Same or lower ESR/impedance

For monitor power supplies, it is *usually* not critical if you pick capacitors that don't quite match the ripple current and ESR/impedance ratings very well. It's just that you new caps may not last very long if they are not rated properly. But again, if you stick to a high-quality Japanese brand, your new caps will still likely outlast these cheaper ones that failed.

I plan to buy a soldering kit, and could use help picking one out. I am not looking for a pro setup, and hoping to spend around $20 or so, but I do need something that will make the job relatively easy.

In general, for this type of work you will need a 40-50 Watt iron. 60 Watt will be okay too, but the irons tend to run very hot and quickly burn through the tips. 30-35 Watt irons are also okay, but only after you've done a bit of soldering before, because the lack of "heat capacity" in those irons may cause you to struggle with some solder joints.

That said, these two on eBay seem like pretty good deals for the money:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-9in1-110...kAAOSwFqJWnx8J
http://www.ebay.com/itm/14in1-Electr...IAAOSw5ZBWOW-z
Just note that I haven't used either of these irons before, so I can't comment on their quality. Most likely they will work okay. Just don't expect the tips to last a long time. And their overall quality is probably quite low.

Or, if you have a Home Depot near you, these could also work:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hakko-40-...-1-P/204215977
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hakko-60-...ED-P/204215957
However, you will need to buy solder separately with these irons (whereas the eBay irons included it).
...
Which brings me to my next point: solder. For a beginner, you might find it easier to work with standard 60/40 leaded solder. Lead-free has a higher melting temperature, so it may be a little harder to solder with it. In any case, I also recommend you get some rosin flux. Either liquid or solid will do (the eBay kits also include flux, but it is in a solid form, so you will need rubbing alcohol/IPA to dissolve it). Just avoid any flux with "RA" in the name (i.e. Rosin Activated) or "Plumber's" flux, as those are aggressive fluxes that can eat through the circuit board traces.

As for how to desolder your caps... I use this method:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...7&postcount=23
Then I clean the holes in the board by heating them and pushing through on the other side with a sewing needle or cork board tac/pin.
Then solder the new caps in place.

As for the replacement caps you picked, I will address that shortly as I check what you ordered.

I have to admit I am having fun with this, sans the freaggin' thing not working...

Good to hear that!
Just be careful, because you might catch the badcap repair "bug". And then there is no stopping doing this stuff. I'm talking from personal experience here.

[USchabon]

Re: Gateway 24" LCD Model LP2407

I still feel a little lost but I went ahead and placed this order based on what other's ordered. I don't think the big cap is included so I hope that mine isn't damaged. I also doubled the order to be prepared for when the other monitor takes a crap. I am tempted to do both but don't want to mess with it unless it dies since the colored vertical lines always go away once it warms up and it has less menu issues that always go away with a quick unplug.

Here is my order:

[USchabon]

Re: Gateway 24" LCD Model LP2407

Oops, I forgot to add the photos.

Here they are:

[USchabon]

Re: Gateway 24" LCD Model LP2407

I've had a lot of the symptoms described here and maybe a few more. I have two of these monitors and they behave slightly different, but at some point in time both had the logo that doesn't fade away for a long time, slow menu, slow switching sources... one of them also seems to need to warm up before A LOT of vertical lines of different colors disappear, but once it warms up it is the one that looks best of the two I have.

This morning, the one without the colored lines, decided not to turn on. The menu lights lit up, and if I switched sources cheating off the other monitor the lights seemed to respond normally, but the LCD remained black no matter what.

I found this forum (thank you for all your posts!) and cracked the f'ker open (somewhat carefully) without much trouble. I found three bulging caps in the Power Control board, and two on the LCD board. I may be getting the names wrong, but I'll attach photos.

I bought a cheap multimeter recently, and though I am not sure how to test the caps I am game if someone would help me figure that out.

I plan to buy a soldering kit, and could use help picking one out. I am not looking for a pro setup, and hoping to spend around $20 or so, but I do need something that will make the job relatively easy. I am meticulous and good with my hands. I have watched people solder before, but this will be my first time soldering a board. I have to admit I am having fun with this, sans the freaggin' thing not working...

Could someone please help me:
1. Make sure I order the right caps per the photos attached (I guess I should replace ALL power control caps, but if it makes sense I would like to just do the bulged caps and see if I can use it for a couple more years)
2. Teach me how to test caps, hopefully before removal
3. Pick the right starter but decent soldering kit

[jetadm123]

Re: Gateway 24" LCD Model LP2407

Someone's Gateway lp2407 went bad and I replaced the capacitors, and it worked for a while and went out again. One more capacitor 10V went in and now it is working.

How do you get the computer monitor to be full screen? Is there a remote in order to change the settings?

1) If there's an auto-adjust feature on the Gateway, give it a try.

2) If the above doesn't work, try using the Windows software to increase the screen resolution.

[philpalm]

Re: Gateway 24" LCD Model LP2407

Someone's Gateway lp2407 went bad and I replaced the capacitors, and it worked for a while and went out again. One more capacitor 10V went in and now it is working.

How do you get the computer monitor to be full screen? Is there a remote in order to change the settings?

[drdenner]

Re: Gateway 24" LCD Model LP2407

I've had the exact same issue as everyone here, glad I found this forum! I'm ordering caps for all 3 boards, as I noticed bulging on not only the power supply but the mainboard and the left board that controls the backlights (2 caps).
I'll post again when I get some results.

Notes:

- Its VERY tricky to get the LCD's plastic housing off. I got it off but with many scratches and frustration. as the plastic clips holding it together are very tight.
- The cable to the front power button can rip out easily when you pull the casing off. Slowly remove casing and unplug power button cable before casing is completely off.

[Wrog]

Re: Gateway 24" LCD Model LP2407

This is from a Gateway fpd2485/lp2407
This is the cable that connects the front panel switch to the logic board, I need a replacement.
Any ides where I could find one?
What would I call it when searching for it?

It's called an FFC (Flexible Flat Cable), but they are pretty uncommon to find separately from the pcb. I'd suggest checking with ebay seller "bammbammfran", he seems to do a lot of work with these models and may have a spare. Good luck.

[alexanna]

Re: Gateway 24" LCD Model LP2407

This is from a Gateway fpd2485/lp2407
This is the cable that connects the front panel switch to the logic board, I need a replacement.
Any ides where I could find one?
What would I call it when searching for it?

[jetadm123]

Re: Gateway 24" LCD Model LP2407

The TS series are not considered low-esr caps. You would have better off looking at the esr and ripple current ratings, which would have led you to the FC series.

As for the inverter caps, you can cut the leads and remove the cap. You can then pull the remaining lead off the board by heating the solder with your iron and pulling the lead out with a pair of pliers.

[signcarver]

Re: Gateway 24" LCD Model LP2407

Thanks guys, I was experiencing 2 seconds to black and just finished replacing all the capacitors on the power (nearly all bulging) and inverter boards(both bulging)... all with panasonic FM's except the two 50V (47uF and 10uF for C876 and C857 in prior pictures) where my choices were FC's, or use the ones posted previously... digikey 493-3288-ND (Nichicon TS) and 565-1598-ND (United Chemi-Con KY). I had a harder time removing the caps from the inverter since the caps there lie flat with bent leads and had no rocking leverage (is there a trick/tip to this?). I didn't do processor/logic board or USB (hub) board. I also did not replace the large cap on the power board.

For the 50V's I ended up ordering both the FCs and the ones mentioned above but decided to use what someone already had luck with for that reason as well as it stated 5000 hours vs 1000 for the FC but I just noticed that the Nichicon listed was a TS series which I didn't see mentioned as "good caps" in the FAQ... would I have been better off using the FC's? I'm not sure I want to tear it all apart again while it is working better than ever.

I also wanted to mention that I made another silly mistake and put one cap in backwards but caught it when I double checked values and polarity prior to reassembling. I swear I put it in right the first time.

Now off to start a new thread to ask about a dell monitor that I temporarily used while waiting for parts.

[xen-uno]

Re: Gateway 24" LCD Model LP2407

Thanks mom ... ordered Panasonic FM's and Nichi PW's. Replacing all the Su'scons on the processor/input board too. I'll lay the upper caps over (above uppermost heat sink where they were 125degC's originally), get them out of the main stream of hot air. I'm a little skeptical that this is going to fix it but it does eliminate a variable ... and it has worked for others. I see those 06xx(M) numbers are date stamps apparently.

[momaka]

Re: Gateway 24" LCD Model LP2407

Got them thru Warren Electronics (vs RadioShack) ... seem to be good ones (well ... Xicon, KME, San Ching, Jamicon and I heard San Ching makes nice Rolexes).

None of those are suitable caps for power supplies.
You don't need 125C rated caps, just proper low ESR caps from either Panasonic, Rubycon, United Chemicon, Nichicon, Sanyo, or Samxon.

The KME's you mentioned above are likely United Chemicon - however that particular series (KME) is general purpose, not low ESR.

I recommend the following replacement caps for LCD monitors:
Panasonic: FM, FR, FC, and HFQ
Rubycon: ZL, ZLH, YXG, and possibly MBZ
United Chemicon: KZE, KY, LXY, LXZ
Nichicon: PW, PM, HE, HD
Sanyo: WX
As for Samxon, not sure which series are suitable. Check their datasheets. GC and GD might just work fine, though.

[xen-uno]

Re: Gateway 24" LCD Model LP2407

Got them thru Warren Electronics (vs RadioShack) ... seem to be good ones (well ... Xicon, KME, San Ching, Jamicon and I heard San Ching makes nice Rolexes). My cap part numbers are in the 600's(M) vs fadec's 700's(M). I found radial 125degC's (Vishay's) in the capacitance and voltage I need, but they are not is stock from DigiKey (the 105degC Panasonics are in stock). Anyone know typical lead time when ordering non-stock items from them?

[pedro]

Re: Gateway 24" LCD Model LP2407

I too, have a Gateway FPD2485 (LP2407) 24'er (blt Nov 2006). Mine was working fine with no indication of problems when the screen went black, never to come back on again. Monitor startup with nothing connected has the normal Gateway sound, and the panel lights on right behave normally, just no picture. No burnt electronic smell either when it failed, btw. Per previous posts, I checked PS and Inverter. The Inverter's electrolytics were bulged (C1 & C3), and 3 of the PS's were too (C869, C870, and C865). Fuses fine on both boards.

Local supply had enuff stock to replace the obviously bad ones, and about half the visually OK ones. I used higher voltage ones with same farad rating when exact match was not available. I've only replaced the bad ones so far. Still not working. Checked voltages to inverter ... nothing. Primary side of PS is alive tho ... as is secondary side after the 1st transformer. I'll do more voltage tests. One note tho ... my PS board has (5) of the 125degC caps (Su'scon @ C862, C863, C864, C867, and C868), which from DigiKey are sold in lots of 200 and are physically alot larger.

Every time I see "local supply" or similar, I cringe. Most such sources do NOT stock suitable low ESR 105C caps. I trust that you didn't go that route, like RatShack or similar.

Once ALL the electros (bar the large one) have been replaced with suitable caps - including the small ones that are often overlooked - it is then time to investigate the PSU outputs.

[xen-uno]

Re: Gateway 24" LCD Model LP2407

I too, have a Gateway FPD2485 (LP2407) 24'er (blt Nov 2006). Mine was working fine with no indication of problems when the screen went black, never to come back on again. Monitor startup with nothing connected has the normal Gateway sound, and the panel lights on right behave normally, just no picture. No burnt electronic smell either when it failed, btw. Per previous posts, I checked PS and Inverter. The Inverter's electrolytics were bulged (C1 & C3), and 3 of the PS's were too (C869, C870, and C865). Fuses fine on both boards.

Local supply had enuff stock to replace the obviously bad ones, and about half the visually OK ones. I used higher voltage ones with same farad rating when exact match was not available. I've only replaced the bad ones so far. Still not working. Checked voltages to inverter ... nothing. Primary side of PS is alive tho ... as is secondary side after the 1st transformer. I'll do more voltage tests. One note tho ... my PS board has (5) of the 125degC caps (Su'scon @ C862, C863, C864, C867, and C868), which from DigiKey are sold in lots of 200 and are physically alot larger.

I'm rather amazed (and skeptical) that ALL of fadec's caps were bad. Odd's of failing all at same time would be like me winning the lottery ... and I know thats not happening.

[sectoroverload2k]

Re: Gateway 24" LCD Model LP2407

i ordered my parts on friday and got them in the mail monday afternoon! i only needed to replace a few, but i replaced all the capacitors anyway. Thanks to you guys i'm back up and running using my monitor in less than an hour! you guys are awsome!

[tedj]

Re: Gateway 24" LCD Model LP2407

Oh, even better, why don't I tell you WHICH monitor I am asking about! *lol*

I am working on my Gateway FPD2485W.

c605 100mf 16v