Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

[jetadm123]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

I received my replacement power board from china (e-bay purchase referenced above) and it doesn't seem to power the backlights at all. I haven't had time to play with it, just plugged it in quickly to see if it would work but alas no luck.

Are there any known issues/differences between Rev 1 and Rev 2 boards? I'm replacing a Rev 1 with a 2.

More info: this particular monitor had the caps replaced 2 years ago. Lately it started flickering. To isolate the problem, I swapped a known working powerboard out of another of my 225BW's and it corrected the problem. This tells me it was a problem on the board.

I plopped a replacement board in, hit power and I get nothing on the screen, it doesn't even fire up for a second displaying the Analog/Digital box in the top left. I haven't had time to look close enough to see if there is a picture on the LCD using a flashlight, more later on that.

The power button lights blue, no image comes, the power button then goes to blinking blue.

I'll investigate further but off the top of your head (Bill or others) do you know of any material differences between the revisions of the boards and if they are compatible with each other?

Thanks



With the board installed,

Maybe you can post photos of the rev1 and rev2 boards and perhaps a sharp eyed member can spot the difference.

[Hunt]

Is this cap problem getting worse or better?

Can admin delete this as it could be called thread hijacking. Sorry.

[chez71]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

I received my replacement power board from china (e-bay purchase referenced above) and it doesn't seem to power the backlights at all. I haven't had time to play with it, just plugged it in quickly to see if it would work but alas no luck.

Are there any known issues/differences between Rev 1 and Rev 2 boards? I'm replacing a Rev 1 with a 2.

More info: this particular monitor had the caps replaced 2 years ago. Lately it started flickering. To isolate the problem, I swapped a known working powerboard out of another of my 225BW's and it corrected the problem. This tells me it was a problem on the board.

I plopped a replacement board in, hit power and I get nothing on the screen, it doesn't even fire up for a second displaying the Analog/Digital box in the top left. I haven't had time to look close enough to see if there is a picture on the LCD using a flashlight, more later on that.

The power button lights blue, no image comes, the power button then goes to blinking blue.

I'll investigate further but off the top of your head (Bill or others) do you know of any material differences between the revisions of the boards and if they are compatible with each other?

Thanks



With the board installed,

I replaced my 225's powerboard with bad caps last night with a rev2 purchased from eBay. Worked like a charm.

[tugnutt]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Hi, I just replaced my OEM CapXcom caps and now when turning on the monitor, I get a white screen.

Here's what I used for my replacements:
1x P10321-ND 47uf 50V
2x P112211-ND 820uf 25V
3x P10272-ND 330uf 25V

Any thoughts?

*Edit* - Nevermind on this, I just realized I forgot to connect one of the ribbon cables inside after googling and finding another thread on this site...

[TheMagictoaster]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Hello everyone, this is my first post and I am happy to be a part of the community.

I have a Samsung SyncMaster 225BW with puffed up capacitors (C304, C305, and C110-12). I went on Digi-Key and ordered new capacitors, three 330uF @25vDC and two 820uF @25vDC. After I soldered in the new caps, I hooked up the monitor and powered it up. Expecting to see my desktop it was only visible for only a few seconds before it shut off...or so I thought. I decided to shine a flashlight at the screen to see if the LCD was displaying, the windows logo was visible. Now my problem is why the backlight is not lighting up. I checked both of the fuses and they are good. Both inverter transformers are okay. C107 looks good, but I remember that someone here said that if that cap failed that all sorts of bad things could happen.

It looks like it could be the CCFL's controller (MP1038EYS) going into a shutdown mode. I really wish there is a schematic for this board, it would make troubleshooting this a hell of a lot easier...

Any thoughts on why the backlights are not staying on after soldering on good capacitors will be helpful.

Thanks

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Expecting to see my desktop it was only visible for only a few seconds before it shut off...or so I thought. I decided to shine a flashlight at the screen to see if the LCD was displaying, the windows logo was visible.

You are experiencing 2 seconds to black. Possible causes are, in no particular order,

a) bad secondary inverter transformer winding
b) bad ccfl
c) bad ccfl wiring (especially the top return wire)
d) bad caps

All explained in detail starting with posts #19 and #20 at

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10419

[XYXZYZ]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

I have a Samsung SyncMaster 226cw that was giving me the "on for a second then dies" routine until I cycle the power enough times to warm it up. When it did stay on, it was rather dim. There was also a squealing sound that would happen sometimes.

Popped it open, checked the power board and saw all but two of the CapXon capacitors were bulging. Fortunately I have a good local electronics store, and they had all the parts I needed. Unfortunately they were rather expensive ($2.70 US for one 820uF cap ) and I spent $20 for 9 caps. (At least I don't have to wait on shipping)

Also unfortunately, they were larger than the CapXon caps...



The only one that wouldn't fit was one 820uF cap in the cluster of capacitors on the right. So, I drilled some holes in an unused section of the board, just by the transformer.





The cap fits without problem. I wired it to the corresponding points on the board...


...And, it's all done!


Double checked the polarity, and I had the axial lead cap backwards.

Corrected the axial cap, Triple checked the polarity, all clear. Put it back together, had a screw left over as usual, plugged it in and expected to smoke and catch fire, also as usual. But it lit right up, good as new! And it doesn't squeal anymore either.

Thanks to all you guys in this thread for pointing me in the right direction!

[budm]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

One thing though is that, that black line on the top of the board where you drill the hole, it is there to tell you where the separation clearance between the Hot side (Deadly side of the power supply) and the Cold side of the power supply is. Right now one of the new capacitor wire is real close to the Hot side copper trace, I would move that hole or the wire away for safety! You should wrap the wire on the cap's leg by forming a hook and then solder.
And the caps that you have bought locally are not likely to b low ESR type, they may last months only. You can ask the guy to see if he knows what low ESR cap is.

[XYXZYZ]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

One thing though is that, that black line on the top of the board where you drill the hole, it is there to tell you where the separation clearance between the Hot side (Deadly side of the power supply) and the Cold side of the power supply is. Right now one of the new capacitor wire is real close to the Hot side copper trace, I would move that hole or the wire away for safety! You should wrap the wire on the cap's leg by forming a hook and then solder.
And the caps that you have bought locally are not likely to b low ESR type, they may last months only. You can ask the guy to see if he knows what low ESR cap is.

Okay, thanks for the tips. But I think I'll just roll with this for a while and wait and see if something goes wrong, I'd like to observe the effects firsthand. I'll post back here and share the actual effects in there are any.

[eaimhwhite]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Okay, thanks for the tips. But I think I'll just roll with this for a while and wait and see if something goes wrong, I'd like to observe the effects firsthand. I'll post back here and share the actual effects in there are any.

I just ordered the caps from Digi-Key. Here is my order. I hope this is helpful to someone.


All prices are in US dollars.
Index Quantity Part Number Manufacturer Part Number Description Customer Reference Backorder Quantity Unit Price Extended Price
1 2 P10277-ND EEU-FC1E681 CAP ALUM 680UF 25V 20% RADIAL 0 0.71000 $1.42
2 2 P11222-ND EEU-FC1E821S CAP ALUM 820UF 25V 20% RADIAL 0 0.90000 $1.80
3 1 P10321-ND EEU-FC1H470 CAP ALUM 47UF 50V 20% RADIAL 0 0.34000 $0.34
4 1 P5542-ND ECA-1EHG331 CAP ALUM 330UF 25V 20% RADIAL 0 0.42000 $0.42
Subtotal $3.98
Shipping Estimate
Sales Tax $0.25
Total unknown

[budm]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

The P5542-ND (330UF 25V ) is not low ESR type (http://industrial.panasonic.com/www-...CA1EHG331+7+WW), they will not hold up in the switched mode power supply.

I myself use FM series, or FR series.

[sy5tem]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Hello,

I've changed all the capacitor , monitor worked well for over a month, then 1 morning i come to work, and the led is blue, but there is nothing in the monitor!

when i power on the monitor i see the desktop. but not even for 1 sec then its all dark!

i changed all the cap again... but same problem still goes black after 1 sec!
what could it be?

[selldoor]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

What caps are you using?

The symptoms you give suggest 2 seconds to black- There is a guide by retiredcaps
here:https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10419 start at post19.

Have you read this thread that you have posted in?

Welcome to the forum-
We can help a lot more if you please post good clear pictures of the whole chassis, and then pictures of each board, front and back and close up of connectors, (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) using the manage attachments button, which is found by clicking "go advanced" under quick reply.

Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.

Examples of what is needed
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1290283049

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...7&d=1280167246

It will be useful if you can say what the supposed fault was and a bit about yourself - skills tools etc.


Welcome to the forum-
We can help a lot more if you please post good clear pictures of the whole chassis, and then pictures of each board, front and back and close up of connectors, (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) using the manage attachments button, which is found by clicking "go advanced" under quick reply.

Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.

Examples of what is needed
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1290283049

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...7&d=1280167246

It will be useful if you can say what the supposed fault was and a bit about yourself - skills tools etc.

[S0und]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Hi!

Recently i bought a new monitor for dual-monitor setup. I just realised that my old 225BW has a yellowish tint. I bought it 5 years ago, crewing through the thread someone showed how can i access the service menu, and i realised my monitor is runing like 2 years know. Other then the yellowish tint (white is not white) it's giving an annoying high pich noise. I used the monitor on 30% brightness in the past, and to fix the noise i needed to increase the brightness to eliminate the noise. The thing is, i'm around 60% brightness now, and i'm a bit worried now. I mean, this issue it not gonna solve itself by just increasing the brightness.

So, my question is, replacing my caps can fix the yellowish tint issue? or that one is related to the backlight?

My new LG (crap IPS) monitor is on the left, 225BW is on the right.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

it's giving an annoying high pich noise.

This could be a bloated cap making the high pitch noise. You will have to take it apart and see.

[bblancobrnx]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Ok, having a similar problem with my Samsung 225BW. My problem might be slightly different. Started about a month ago. Now when the monitor sits and cools for a perod of time, I turn it on and the picture is kind of faint and washed out and flickers slightly. It slowly gets slightly brighter for about 8 or 9 seconds, and then goes black with a solid blue power light on. Further attempts to cycle the power off and on results in being able to see the "analog" or "digital" up in the corner for about a tenth of a second and then the screen going to black. However, with a front light source, you can see that the display is working, just not the backlighting. At first if I cycled off and on a bunch of times, eventually it would come on nice and bright and be fine as long as the monitor didn't go off. However, someone else turned the monitor off a couple of times, and now it is much tougher to get it to come on perfectly. Eventually after cycling it many times and leaving it off for a random amount of time and turning it back on it will stay on the correct way. I just found this thread and took it apart for the first time today. HEre is a picture of the board. I can see the tops of C110 (820uF25v), C111 (820uF25v), and C112 (330uF25V) are leaking and blown out. The other caps look all right. My question is, does this sound like a problem that could just be related to the bad caps, or is it likely something else that is causing this? My power light does not blink off and on like so many people's did. Thank you for any help you can give me.

[tom66]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Almost certainly those caps at fault.

You can replace them with Panasonic caps from Digi-Key or a similar place.

Don't use RadioShack caps whatever you do!

[bblancobrnx]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Thank you Tom. I just ordered Panasonic caps from Digi-Key. I ordered replacements for all 6, even though only those 3 "appeared" damaged. Where can I get a de-soldering wick?

[jetadm123]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Thank you Tom. I just ordered Panasonic caps from Digi-Key. I ordered replacements for all 6, even though only those 3 "appeared" damaged. Where can I get a de-soldering wick?

You also can purchase de-soldering wick at digikey. If you act quickly you may be able to add it on to your order.

[zwoeger]

Problem solved see reply #566

About my 225BW. Manufactured april 2007 in Slowakia. Powerboard rev 2

One day the menu button didn't work anymore. The on/off button didn't work always anymore too.
So I left it on permanently. The monitor did go in stand by and the power button got to blink.
I did get a normal screen when I started up my pc.

The presets/down button worked and I could use the brightness/up button to choose.
Pushing the brightness/up button without te preset menu resulted in this screen:



which then lasted for about 4 seconds before turning to the normal screen.
Detaching the monitor didn't give the no signal warning.

It appeared that only one cap was bulged open:



I did replace all the caps (C 107 - C 110 - C 111 - C 112 - C304 - C305 ) with panasonics rf type exept for C 107 which is another brand 105 c type.
I didn't replace the big one.

The only thing that has changed is that the power button is working again albeit that it takes about 4 seconds until the screen is back.

Disabeling OSD by pushing the menu button for 5 seconds worked and works still.
The laguage in the preset menu and using the auto button has changed to German.
Don't know if that happened after replacing the caps or when the problems first started.

So what can I do further? I do have a multi meter.

Thanks for the help so far.