I recently picked up 4 broken monitors on craigslist, one of which was a Hanns-G HQ191DP. It's a 19" monitor with DVI and VGA inputs, audio input with built-in speakers, and CCFL backlights.
To open the monitor start by removing the stand and all the screws on the back. The next step is to pry the two pieces apart. This proved to be more difficult that most monitors. For some reason the bottom of the monitor was really difficult, there were times when I felt like I was going to break the plastic. Once you get the monitor apart you can access the metal cage on the back with the circuit boards. Remove the wires and some screws to remove the cage. Important - to remove the power/inverter board from the cage you MUST also remove the video board from the cage at the same time. Instead of a wire bundle connecting the two boards, they are connected by a hard link between the boards. If you try and remove one board without the other you will break this link.
With the circuit boards removed it was easy to spot the problem - bad caps. I didn't bother to check the ESR of the caps, I just ordered replacements for all the caps. I replaced them all with Panasonic FM series (or FC series when FM was unavailable). After soldering in the replacements ther monitor works perfectly.
By far the worst part of working on this monitor was getting the two plastic case pieces to come apart. Everything else was straight forward. This is a good looking monitor and it will make a nice addition to my desk.
To open the monitor start by removing the stand and all the screws on the back. The next step is to pry the two pieces apart. This proved to be more difficult that most monitors. For some reason the bottom of the monitor was really difficult, there were times when I felt like I was going to break the plastic. Once you get the monitor apart you can access the metal cage on the back with the circuit boards. Remove the wires and some screws to remove the cage. Important - to remove the power/inverter board from the cage you MUST also remove the video board from the cage at the same time. Instead of a wire bundle connecting the two boards, they are connected by a hard link between the boards. If you try and remove one board without the other you will break this link.
With the circuit boards removed it was easy to spot the problem - bad caps. I didn't bother to check the ESR of the caps, I just ordered replacements for all the caps. I replaced them all with Panasonic FM series (or FC series when FM was unavailable). After soldering in the replacements ther monitor works perfectly.
By far the worst part of working on this monitor was getting the two plastic case pieces to come apart. Everything else was straight forward. This is a good looking monitor and it will make a nice addition to my desk.
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