Hanns*G HC194G Slow start

[wabbleknee]

Greetings. Have been having trouble with my monitor the last couple of weeks. No start on the monitor, the green light flashing on/off every 3-4 seconds and the speakers "click" every light cycle. Initially thought it was the computer or graphic card until one day I turned on both monitors and the main monitor HC194 was not on, the second monitor was on and displaying normal. Changed cable, swapped ports on graphic card no change. It takes 5 minutes and then the monitor looks normal and lasts until I turn it off. Moved the monitor to a second computer, same problem. Don't know if this is normal or not, but with just the power cord connected, the monitor light will also flash, I cannot get the Menu button to produce anything on the screen. Is the data cable supposed to be attached and computer on before you can get to the menu screen?? Appreciate any suggestions on the slow start problem. Tx

[PlainBill]

Re: Hanns*G HC194G Slow start

Those are textbook signs of failing caps in the power supply. The best approach is to open the monitor up, take pictures of the power supply, and attach them to your next post using 'Manage Attachments' - below the text entry area.

As a rough estimate, the parts to do a complete recap of the monitor will cost about $10 delivered if you are in the USA.

PlainBill

[wabbleknee]

Re: Hanns*G HC194G Slow start

Those are textbook signs of failing caps in the power supply. The best approach is to open the monitor up, take pictures of the power supply, and attach them to your next post using 'Manage Attachments' - below the text entry area.

As a rough estimate, the parts to do a complete recap of the monitor will cost about $10 delivered if you are in the USA.

PlainBill

Most of the caps, I can get a value on. The caps inside the heat sink and the big black cap, I cannot. Looks like 56,54,51,52, 8 and 10 have swelled tops

[jetadm123]

Re: Hanns*G HC194G Slow start

Looks like the same cheap NKCON brand caps that TDK uses on their inverter boards. Suggest you replace all caps with the exception of the large 450V one, which rarely fails. You can use Panasonic FR, FM or FC series caps available from digikey.com. Like PlainBill says, it should run you around $10, including shipping.

[wabbleknee]

Re: Hanns*G HC194G Slow start

Looks like the same cheap NKCON brand caps that TDK uses on their inverter boards. Suggest you replace all caps with the exception of the large 450V one, which rarely fails. You can use Panasonic FR, FM or FC series caps available from digikey.com. Like PlainBill says, it should run you around $10, including shipping.

I agree, the big cap's top looks perfectly flat. Looks like I will have to unsolder the ones I cannot read to get a value on for the order. Upon further investigation, the 4 caps together on the side of the heat sink looks like two of them have taken a "pooh" out the bottom!

[PlainBill]

Re: Hanns*G HC194G Slow start

A couple of things nobody has mentioned yet, some obvious (in hindsight), some subtle.

There are a total of 10 caps that should be replaced. C8 and C10 can cause problems, and won't show any physical signs when they fail.

When removing the old caps, make a chart showing what value cap goes in each location.

If you place the order with Digikey, specify USPS First Class Mail shipping; it will cost about $3.00 to ship an order this size.

When ordering replacements, make sure they will fit. It is really embarrassing if the monitor works, but you can't get the covers on.

PlainBill

[jsog]

Re: Hanns*G HC194G Slow start

There are a total of 10 caps that should be replaced. C8 and C10 can cause problems, and won't show any physical signs when they fail.

I count eleven, including C57.

[PlainBill]

Re: Hanns*G HC194G Slow start

I count eleven, including C57.

Sir, you are correct!!

PlainBill

[wabbleknee]

Re: Hanns*G HC194G Slow start

Looks like the same cheap NKCON brand caps that TDK uses on their inverter boards. Suggest you replace all caps with the exception of the large 450V one, which rarely fails. You can use Panasonic FR, FM or FC series caps available from digikey.com. Like PlainBill says, it should run you around $10, including shipping.

Got the caps out. Since I have a choice of the FM or FC Panasonic, is there really a difference. Price seems to be a couple of cents difference?

C101/102 = 220uf/35 2ea
c51/52 = 470uf/25 2ea
C54/C56 = 1000uf/10 2ea
C10 = 47uf/50 1 ea
C57/C62 = 100uf/25 2ea
C8=4.7uf/50 (almost missed the "." between 4&7) 1 ea
C59 = 100uf/10 1 ea

Panasonic FC Total$ = 5.50 +S/h

One of the 100uf/25 in the Thumb

Diagram made, polarity's noted. Thanks to all who helped on this.

[wabbleknee]

Re: Hanns*G HC194G Slow start

Forgot to mention in my last post. One of the cable assembly's (audio) was a stinker getting it disconnected and the two left wires red & black broke. This connector is really small and was wondering if any body had experience with this type of plug. Is there a "holding" clip release to remove the pin? or might it be best to just solder a "helper" wire there and then the normal wires? Tx

[jetadm123]

Re: Hanns*G HC194G Slow start

Got the caps out. Since I have a choice of the FM or FC Panasonic, is there really a difference. Price seems to be a couple of cents difference?

C101/102 = 220uf/35 2ea
c51/52 = 470uf/25 2ea
C54/C56 = 1000uf/10 2ea
C10 = 47uf/50 1 ea
C57/C62 = 100uf/25 2ea
C8=4.7uf/50 (almost missed the "." between 4&7) 1 ea
C59 = 100uf/10 1 ea

Panasonic FC Total$ = 5.50 +S/h

One of the 100uf/25 in the Thumb

Diagram made, polarity's noted. Thanks to all who helped on this.

FM has better specifications than FC. Select FC if you can't fine the proper values in FM.

[wabbleknee]

Re: Hanns*G HC194G Slow start

FM has better specifications than FC. Select FC if you can't fine the proper values in FM.

Got the caps from DK installed without issue and my monitor fired up instantly. Crystal clear display again. Thanks for all the help

[rndman]

Re: Hanns*G HC194G Slow start

Got the caps from DK installed without issue and my monitor fired up instantly. Crystal clear display again. Thanks for all the help

What is DK?

Can you suggest a reasonable place to buy these caps ( on line is fine).

Radios Shack is way too expensive...

[PlainBill]

Re: Hanns*G HC194G Slow start

What is DK?

Can you suggest a reasonable place to buy these caps ( on line is fine).

Radios Shack is way too expensive...

Post #6 - Digi-Key. Good prices, cheap shipping, quick delivery.


This thread gives information on selecting caps.

PlainBill

[perszebutol]

Re: Hanns*G HC194G Slow start

Hello!
Seeking the above schematic power supply (TDK XAD819R/EA02819X). I converted my monitor with LED-backlit, name: HannsG 198D HN, everything is ok with it, but I can not set the brightness automatically. On the monitor, of course, all functions can be controlled. It is taken out of one WB 12 labeled parts (the description says it's a zener diode), the three pieces of resistance (one of the values ??I remember "1001" that is 1K omhos and the other to know, because it's a jumper to "0 value. Just I am in trouble with the third one, because, although I did picture him before the operation, I do not see the value. I tried to GIMP, but would in no way been read. And they put away, I do not find it anywhere!'ll put a picture that you select the components. If someone Do you have any drawing of the power supply, or a list of parts I would really appreciate it! Sorry if the wrong formula, but I live in Hungary and I do not know English. I'm using Google translator.
Welcome perszebutol

[trag]

Re: Hanns*G HC194G Slow start

Forgot to mention in my last post. One of the cable assembly's (audio) was a stinker getting it disconnected and the two left wires red & black broke. This connector is really small and was wondering if any body had experience with this type of plug. Is there a "holding" clip release to remove the pin? or might it be best to just solder a "helper" wire there and then the normal wires? Tx

Late to the posting but for anyone else turning this up in a search...

I couldn't find any kind of clip. It's just really difficult to unplug the speaker connector without ripping the wires out, as I did.

This kind of plug is a plastic housing which holds "pins". The wires are crimped onto the pins and then the pins are inserted into the plastic housing.

If you rip out any of the wires the easiest thing is probably to remove the old, disconnected pin from the housing, crimp the wire to a new pin and insert the new pin in the housing.

I have not received my order yet, so I can't guarantee this is correct, but I believe the Digi-Key part number for replacement pins is A103922CT-ND. In case you somehow munge up the plug housing I believe that A100013-ND will work as a replacement.

I ordered the following caps. Some of the series that folks swear by don't include short enough caps, e. g. Panasonic FM series seem to be at least 17mm tall where 15mm appear to be needed, so I stuck mostly to Rubycon ZLH series. Maybe the taller ones would have fit but clearance plays a part in ventilation and cooling too.

1000 uF, 10V. 1189-1072-ND
470 uF, 25V. 1189-1869-ND
220 uF, 35V. 1189-1863-ND
100 uF, 35V. (All three 100 uF) 1189-1300-ND
47 uF, 50V. 1189-2325-ND
4.7 uF, 50V. P13146-ND

Including 50 pins and a handful of housings, my order came to $5.71 plus 1st class USPS shipping. Probably under $9 total.

[trag]

Re: Hanns*G HC194G Slow start

If you rip out any of the wires the easiest thing is probably to remove the old, disconnected pin from the housing, crimp the wire to a new pin and insert the new pin in the housing.

I have not received my order yet, so I can't guarantee this is correct, but I believe the Digi-Key part number for replacement pins is A103922CT-ND. In case you somehow munge up the plug housing I believe that A100013-ND will work as a replacement.

Took me a long time because I really didn't want to deal with the tiny audio wires and I had a really nice spare monitor on hand. I can now confirm that the above part numbers are an exact replacement for the four pin, three used, speaker plug and pins.

If you need to repair this connector, get extra pins. I needed three and between crimping slippage and dropping the tiny things, use six. They're cheap. I bought 50 and my order with caps was still under $6.

If you haven't used this kind of pin before, note that it has two sets of crimpable legs. The longest pair closest to the end of the pin goes around the insulation of the wire. It provides a strong grip for physical strain relief. The inner shorter pair goes around the stripped end of the wire and makes the electrical connection. This means one must get the transition from insulated wire to stripped wire to sit in the tiny space between the two pairs of legs.

Normally one would use a crimping tool for these pins but the legs are crimpable with small needle nose pliers.

The wires are smaller than 24 gauge, which is the smallest my stripper does. I ended up using the stripper from my wire wrap tool on the tiny tiny wires.

The speakers are working again after the repair.

I ordered the following caps. Some of the series that folks swear by don't include short enough caps, e. g. Panasonic FM series seem to be at least 17mm tall where 15mm appear to be needed, so I stuck mostly to Rubycon ZLH series. Maybe the taller ones would have fit but clearance plays a part in ventilation and cooling too.

1000 uF, 10V. 1189-1072-ND
470 uF, 25V. 1189-1869-ND
220 uF, 35V. 1189-1863-ND
100 uF, 35V. (All three 100 uF) 1189-1300-ND
47 uF, 50V. 1189-2325-ND
4.7 uF, 50V. P13146-ND

Including 50 pins and a handful of housings, my order came to $5.71 plus 1st class USPS shipping. Probably under $9 total.

My mistake. The caps other folks recommended are short enough. The ones I used left several millimeters extra clearance. Perhaps something was askew in my measurements or in how cap heights are specified? In any case apologies for the confusion. The caps I bought are working fine.