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Belnea 2025 S1

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    #1

    Belnea 2025 S1

    I have one Belnea monitor which has started to turn off within a min of turning on.

    Ive pulled the unit apart and found the following that seem buldged and need replacing.

    Buldging and/or leaking already
    1x Ltec 1000uF 25V LZG 105c
    2x CrapXon 470uF 25V GL 105c

    Some Others
    TaiCon 120uF 400v 105c (AQ)P
    CapXon 2200uF 10v GL 105c
    TaiCon 680uF 10v 105c (PW)P
    TaiCon 220uF 25v 105c (PW)P
    Ltec 47uF 50v 105c LZG

    I know all the buldging ones need changing but having trouble working out what series of Rubycon/Panasonic are best to go with.
    The other caps should realy be changed but they show no current signs of damage.
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    #2
    Re: Belnea 2025 S1

    Originally posted by TSM View Post
    I have one Belnea monitor which has started to turn off within a min of turning on.

    Ive pulled the unit apart and found the following that seem buldged and need replacing.

    Buldging and/or leaking already
    1x Ltec 1000uF 25V LZG 105c
    2x CrapXon 470uF 25V GL 105c

    Some Others
    TaiCon 120uF 400v 105c (AQ)P
    CapXon 2200uF 10v GL 105c
    TaiCon 680uF 10v 105c (PW)P
    TaiCon 220uF 25v 105c (PW)P
    Ltec 47uF 50v 105c LZG

    I know all the buldging ones need changing but having trouble working out what series of Rubycon/Panasonic are best to go with.
    The other caps should realy be changed but they show no current signs of damage.
    I'd replace all except the 120uF, 400V with Panasonic FM (preferred) or FC. You probably can't get 47uF, 50V in FM series, so go with FC. If that one fails it won't show any signs.

    PlainBill
    For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

    Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

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      #3
      Re: Belnea 2025 S1

      1) Capacitors die from age, heat, and shoddy build quality. Capacitors DO NOT have to be visibly bloated in order to bad. They can be out of tolerance uF (a 1000uF measures 20uF) and/or have high ESR (ohm). A multimeter will be insufficient to test for ESR. For that you need an ESR tester which costs between $50 and $300.

      Most members here will recommend that you replace ALL electrolytic capacitors, except the largest one which rarely, but not never, fails with reputable brands from reputable sellers. Brands like Rubycon, Panasonic, and United Chemicon are suggested. A list of recommended caps can be found at

      https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=2280

      2) PCBONEZ talks about how to choose the right series at

      https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...47&postcount=3

      and

      https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...30&postcount=7

      3) PlainBill gives instructions on how to order Panasonic FM and FC caps at

      https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...33&postcount=2
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