Re: Westinghouse L2410NM No Power, No LED
OK, if I were you I would replace those two caps, measuring the resistance of the cap does not really mean much, it may show leakage resistance and that is about it, it does show if it has correct capacitance.
Westinghouse L2410NM No Power, No LED
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Re: Westinghouse L2410NM No Power, No LED
I use this calculator to figure our Resistor value, it blocks reverse color readings.
Unfortunately, I don't have ESR Meter, the values 2 mOhms / 1.4 mOhms refer to MegaOhms, may be I should put it 2 MOhms / 1.4 MOhms in-circuit, sorry about that.Last edited by sambul83; 04-24-2015, 08:53 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Westinghouse L2410NM No Power, No LED
15.9 Ohms is very high resistance for that Source resistor for that PFC MOSFET, it does not sound right. I have never seen PFC MOSFET circuit using that high of the resistance, the highest I have seen is 0.82 Ohms.
"It seems to be C21, and it tests 2 mOhms / 1.4 mOhms in-circuit off power," Is that resistance reading or ESR reading? Even for ESR, that is very low for 47~100uF cap for the VCC. 2mili-Ohms (0.002 Ohms!) that is way too low to be true for ESR.Leave a comment:
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Re: Westinghouse L2410NM No Power, No LED
It may be, but... there's no such boards supply in North America, and its $70 from China, almost like a new monitor on sale now.
The resistor is rated 16 Ohms. This thread holds high diagnostics skills value regardless of the outcome, since both failure and success are normal outcomes in technology projects, and they change places all the time. Did you mean C21 cap affects lower voltage from U2 and needs replacement?Last edited by sambul83; 04-24-2015, 08:14 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Westinghouse L2410NM No Power, No LED
"how this all is related to flickering issue?" How do expect the circuit to operate correctly at the lower voltage than it should be?
"And how the resistor can loose resistance & get short rather than burned & open? " What is the color code or the value as printed on the resistor? Are you sure it is not Fusible resistor or Source resistor which are <1 Ohm? I cannot see which resistor that is.
I think at this point it is time to buy new power supply board.
BTW, the resistor just above the D2 and to the right of the MOSFET is the Source resistor for that MOSFET.Last edited by budm; 04-24-2015, 08:09 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Westinghouse L2410NM No Power, No LED
It seems to be C21, and it tests 2 mOhms / 1.4 mOhms in-circuit off power, 10.9V powered. But again, if U2 voltage is below threshold, why CK1 voltage 180V exceeds the target 169V, and how this all is related to flickering issue?
And how the resistor can loose resistance & get short rather than burned & open? Or does it mean that the circuit is short - then why the monitor was working OK most of the time?Last edited by sambul83; 04-24-2015, 06:39 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Westinghouse L2410NM No Power, No LED
You are correct.
GND = GROUND, PIN 6
GD is the GATE drive.
So the Voltage barely is below the 12V (11V minimum) the required minimum Turn-on Threshold.
We need to locate the filter Electrolytics cap connected to the VCC pin of this PFC IC.Last edited by budm; 04-24-2015, 05:04 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Westinghouse L2410NM No Power, No LED
U2 gives 10.9V btw GND pin 6 and VCC pin 8.
I found shot resistor R12 @ 0.2 Ohms next to D2 - see above. It's color coded: green - gold - white - green - brown, which seems to mean 15.9 Ohms +- 0.5% as per The Resistor Guide.
All that probably means I shouldn't remove the right heatsink anyway, it was a bad move expected when no help is provided. Now pay, pay, pay...Last edited by sambul83; 04-24-2015, 06:14 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Westinghouse L2410NM No Power, No LED
I am talking about the PFC CONTROLLER IC U2 L6561, the smps IC is working because you are getting the output voltages.Leave a comment:
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Re: Westinghouse L2410NM No Power, No LED
Other components in PFC/Boost Converter in-circuit, no power:
R12 0 / 0 Ohms shot sound
Q2 1-3 OL / 20 kOhms, 1-2 890 kOhms / OL , 2-3 OL / 160 kOhms
C21 and C22 caps are charging and discharging when measured
Transformer L1 1-1 0/0, 1-2 OL/800kOhms, 1-3 OL/800kOhms
C1, C2,C3 OL / 800 kOhmsLast edited by sambul83; 04-24-2015, 04:42 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Westinghouse L2410NM No Power, No LED
The circuit with CS2 MLCC cap is on a control line connecting UP1 L0651 817C Optocoupler through US1 431 shunt diode and CS16 / CS18 caps with power line to ribbon cable connectors to Main and Inverter boards (about 1/3 of all connectors). The circuit seems to control some voltages supplied from the main transformer through jumpers to the other boards. DS4, DS5 and DS7 rectifiers input & output is also controlled and directed through US4 4419 BA6515 4-pin mosfet and tiny caps to the same and other pins of the main and inverter board connectors.
The reason I removed DS4, DS5 and DS7 rectifiers to measure off board was one of them shown 0V output, and their in-circuit resistance readings were strange. But now I think it was the wrong move only leading to further board damage, as 0V was possibly due to open tiny cap. That prompts to measure resistance of all caps on board even the tiny ones before considering removing a group of components mounted on a heatsink, which may not be an easy task for a novice with primitive tools. If tiny caps gradually change resistance by charging from the Meter, they're probably good. As to larger caps easy to remove, consider pros and cons of replacing them if they show normal voltages and resistance in both directions, and don't look bulged. Repair shops likely change all caps since they provide warranty to consumers. But in home repairs that logic may not apply, as you always can open and fix the device again.Last edited by sambul83; 04-24-2015, 08:11 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Westinghouse L2410NM No Power, No LED
I was trying to add flux, and it prevents cooper wick from absorbing the solder, so it just covers broader area and makes shorts, then more to cleanup. I'll try to get a better iron and set of tips, now only one narrow tip, may be that's why it takes much time to melt.
Mains are 120V now. D2 diode shows OL / 470 kOhm.
Hope you can suggest values of these 3 tiny caps, otherwise I can't repair this board. The problem is, when plenty of these monitors were failing, it was a large supply of power boards. Now I don't see any, and seldom price is twice higher.Leave a comment:
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Re: Westinghouse L2410NM No Power, No LED
It looks like the iron is not at least 40 WATTS or higher, 60W is preferred with wide tip for de-soldering this kind of works, and flux should be used and add solder to the jointsLeave a comment:
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Re: Westinghouse L2410NM No Power, No LED
I was looking on YouTube a guy detached similar heatsink with several diodes screwed to it in 2 min, and it looked like new. What I was doing wrong here? Do you think its still reparable, or better to try locate replacement board?Leave a comment:
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Re: Westinghouse L2410NM No Power, No LED
"What I mean under "stress wear" - parts age together. Brand new parts are able of handling higher voltages without notable wear, while if one raises voltages on various older parts by replacing all caps, that accelerates their wear. Of course, very high failure rate within 6-month period after replacing caps reported in the longest thread re L2410 LCD where main effort was on replacing caps can be attributed to low skills level of repair "staff". I can see it looking at my own results."
I f that is the case, then 1000's of monitors and TV I repair would have come back to me by now. Wrong type of cap, general purpose caps are the problem, they have to be low ESR type.
The one by the rectifier diode is part of the R-C snubber to protect the diodes, the circuit will still function without the snubber but the diode will fail. The board looks very nasty with those soldering works. I do not know what the function of CS2 is, they are MLCC- Multi layer Ceramic Capacitors. no way to tell the value without the cap meter.Leave a comment:
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Re: Westinghouse L2410NM No Power, No LED
No, I mean CS2 and other 2 similar caps marked here measure OL in both directions (one tiny cap is missing in action). What are their values and where to get them? Does this area look "repairable" despite the damage?
As to C21,22,23, I measured now resistance on-board again upon discharge (as before), and all 3 show OL / 3.5 mOhm in reverse firm. D2 diode shows OL / 470 kOhm. I'll re-solder 3 diodes under right heatsink and measure V on the big cap under left heatsink tomorrow, if its safe to hook the PS to other boards without the tiny caps CS2 etc. As to other components near the big cap, are they all to be measured under load?
What I mean under "stress wear" - parts age together. Brand new parts are able of handling higher voltages without notable wear, while if one raises voltages on various older parts by replacing all caps, that accelerates their wear. Of course, very high failure rate within 6-month period after replacing caps reported in the longest thread re L2410 LCD where main effort was on replacing caps can be attributed to low skills level of repair "staff". I can see it looking at my own results.Last edited by sambul83; 04-23-2015, 11:04 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Westinghouse L2410NM No Power, No LED
"But will the PS even allow to switch on the monitor without these small open caps?" What small caps?
Are you talking about C21, 22, 23 filter caps that show OL? did you completely discharge them before using the Ohm meter on them, any DC on the cap will cause the Ohm mode not to read correctly.
BTW, putting all new caps will not cause the stress otherwise all the new monitor will fail since they all have new caps installed, bad caps will cause stress and damages to the circuits due to AC ripple voltage being fed to the circuits that want to see clean DC voltages.
Check the DC Voltage between VCC PIN 8 and the GND pin 2 to see if you have at least 12V (trun on threshold).
You will be making Voltage measurement in the HOT DEADLY SIDE of the circuit, so do not touch anything.
BTW, did you check D2 as I asked?
What is you AC line voltage being fed to the board, 120VAC? The reason I ask is that you indicate you have 180VDC on the main cap which is higher than normal if the main is 120VAC, 120VAC x 1.414 = 169.68V, so you line voltage must be higher than 120V to get 180VDC on the cap.Attached FilesLast edited by budm; 04-23-2015, 10:30 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Westinghouse L2410NM No Power, No LED
Sorry U4 is SMPS IC, but the datasheet is correct? Also U2: L6561D ez622 Power Factor Corrector.
But will the PS even allow to switch on the monitor without these small open caps? If not, the readings won't be under load anyway - correct? What's the purpose of these tiny caps?
Also, if my theory is correct, switching LCD resolutions requires voltage change from PS? That voltage should be in a certain range to switch the resolution... it can't be just random voltage. Than I'm at loss how everything worked? But it was flickering beyond tolerable, so needed repair anyway.Last edited by sambul83; 04-23-2015, 09:33 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Westinghouse L2410NM No Power, No LED
Without boosted voltage your inverter circuit will never work right since the Voltage will be lower. For example, you have 240V motor hook up to 120V, the motor may spin but when you put the load on the shaft it will stall.
The inverter circuit draws the most power from the power supply.
You should check the Voltage of the main cap when the unit is plug in and when power switch is activated to see if the PFC even try to start up.
Diode D2 just check in Diode mode with your meter.
TEA1552 is not PFC Controller IC, it is SMPS IC.Last edited by budm; 04-23-2015, 09:16 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Westinghouse L2410NM No Power, No LED
PFC controller at the bottom is TEA 1552T 2060R209, datasheet here. Also c656ld ez622 (turned around it reads 229z3 079597) that might be junction diode?
Not sure how to check it now until the missing & open small caps are replaced, as shown on the above pic? Can I connect it to power outlet without these caps?
As to the PFC not working, 180V was measured at idle with PSB disconnected from other boards. I assume if it was twice lower than required, how then my monitor worked OK most of the time (until I started "professional repairs"), only flickering 5-6 times then working normally again for 4 hours? Or that voltage affects only PS efficiency, but doesn't affect resulting output voltages?
For those interested how such power supplies (are supposed to) work, I found useful read: Switched-mode power supply.Last edited by sambul83; 04-23-2015, 09:10 PM.Leave a comment:
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