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    Samsung SynchMaster 214T, Princeton LCD19D and VL1919

    Samsung SynchMaster 214T, Princeton LCD19D and VL1919

    Back in May/June I had some great help from PlainBill and RetiredCaps with a Gateway fpd1975w. With their excellent guidance and encouragement I successfully restored the Gateway and two Samsungs. It was done in spite of my complete lack of electronic or electrical knowledge or training. Thanks!

    I have three monitors, one Samsung SynchMaster 214T and two Princetons, a LCD19D and a VL1919, on the desk to recap and I would appreciate a review of my choice of replacement caps. Except for three caps I desoldered in order to read the markings I have left all the old caps in place until I have the replacements in hand.

    Here are the caps I will replace followed by my choice for replacements from Digikey. Lead spacing influenced choice on several:

    Princeton LCD19D

    1 piece Evercon 470uf 16v 11mm x 12mm

    P12376-ND



    Princeton VL1919

    2 pieces CapXon 1000uf 10v 13mm x 15mm

    P12353-ND


    2 pieces CapXon 470uf 25v 13mm x 15mm

    P10275-ND


    2 pieces CapXon 220uf 25v 10.5mm x 11.5mm

    P12383-ND


    c57 1 piece CapXon 100uf 25v 8mm x 10mm

    P12924-ND


    c59 1 piece CapXon 100uf 10v 8mm x 10mm

    P12919-ND


    c62 1 piece CapXon 100uf 25v 8mm x 10mm

    P12924-ND




    Synchmaster 214T

    2 pieces CapXon 820uf 25v 13mm x 20mm

    P11222-ND


    3 pieces CapXon 330uf 25v 13mm x 12mm

    P12387-ND



    Thanks in advance for your help.

    Ken
    Attached Files

    #2
    Re: Samsung SynchMaster 214T, Princeton LCD19D and VL1919

    Originally posted by weflyuniv View Post

    I have three monitors, one Samsung SynchMaster 214T and two Princetons, a LCD19D and a VL1919, on the desk to recap and I would appreciate a review of my choice of replacement caps.
    For future posts, it would be helpful to have 1 monitor/thread to minimize confusion.

    Here are the caps I will replace followed by my choice for replacements from Digikey. Lead spacing influenced choice on several:

    Princeton LCD19D

    1 piece Evercon 470uf 16v 11mm x 12mm

    P12376-ND
    It would also help if you could provide the URL so people can just click on it to check what you are ordering like this

    http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...ords=P12376-ND

    The one you chose above is 15mm height. As long as it fits, then it is fine.

    Princeton VL1919

    2 pieces CapXon 1000uf 10v 13mm x 15mm

    P12353-ND


    2 pieces CapXon 470uf 25v 13mm x 15mm

    P10275-ND


    c57 1 piece CapXon 100uf 25v 8mm x 10mm

    P12924-ND


    c59 1 piece CapXon 100uf 10v 8mm x 10mm

    P12919-ND


    c62 1 piece CapXon 100uf 25v 8mm x 10mm

    P12924-ND
    Same comment about height for all the above caps. All the FM caps are slightly higher by 1 or 2mm. You could be measuring the existing caps incorrectly or your ruler is off a bit?


    Synchmaster 214T

    3 pieces CapXon 330uf 25v 13mm x 12mm

    P12387-ND
    Same comment about height.
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      #3
      Re: Samsung SynchMaster 214T, Princeton LCD19D and VL1919

      All look good.

      I usually suggest replacing all electrolytic caps (with the possible exception of the 100uF, 450V one). Caps CAN fail with no external evidence.

      PlainBill
      For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

      Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

      Comment


        #4
        Re: Samsung SynchMaster 214T, Princeton LCD19D and VL1919

        Thank you for the quick reply PlainBill and RetiredCaps. PlainBill I do know of your position on replacing ALL the caps. I have no doubt it is the wiser choice and I may well kick myself if I opt to do less. I will report back any subsequent failures as a result so that at least I can serve as a good example of bad choices.

        Sorry RetiredCaps for omitting the URLs. I should have thought of that. And I will separate models to distinct threads in future. My previous recapping project did involve very close clearances but this time all are spacious. I did however wonder about lead spacing but it seems to me as long as the top and side clearances are unproblematic then it should be a non-problem. Is that right? And based only on an instinct that a larger can should dissipate heat better I considered whether I should make more of an effort to see that replacements should be, if not the same size, bigger rather than smaller. Any truth to that?

        Thanks again. I will post again after recapping.

        Ken

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Samsung SynchMaster 214T, Princeton LCD19D and VL1919

          Just make sure when you bend leads you don't 'pull against' the rubber bung to get the bend.
          Also don't pull or push on the leads.
          - Those things can result in leaky caps.
          Grab the base of the lead [right at the bung] with set of narrow nose miniature pliers [or maybe a hemostat or stout tweezers] and bend against the tool instead of against the rubber.
          .
          Mann-Made Global Warming.
          - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.

          -
          Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.

          - Dr Seuss
          -
          You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
          -

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Samsung SynchMaster 214T, Princeton LCD19D and VL1919

            Originally posted by PCBONEZ View Post
            Just make sure when you bend leads you don't 'pull against' the rubber bung to get the bend.
            Also don't pull or push on the leads.
            - Those things can result in leaky caps.
            Grab the base of the lead [right at the bung] with set of narrow nose miniature pliers [or maybe a hemostat or stout tweezers] and bend against the tool instead of against the rubber.
            .
            Very helpful. Thank you.

            Ken

            Comment


              #7
              Re: Samsung SynchMaster 214T, Princeton LCD19D and VL1919

              After Action Report:

              I recapped as I previously suggested I would and two out of three work fine. The Princeton LCD19D, as represented by the previously posted image CIMG9761, did not work. I will order the remaining caps and hopefully get that one working as well.

              I respect your recommendation PlainBill to replace all the caps. Although I had no reason whatsoever to doubt the wisdom of replacing all the caps I still like to pinch pennies and I don't mind investing some extra time in my two stage repair.

              Thanks to all for your very helpful input.

              Ken

              Comment


                #8
                Re: Samsung SynchMaster 214T, Princeton LCD19D and VL1919

                Originally posted by weflyuniv View Post
                The Princeton LCD19D, as represented by the previously posted image CIMG9761, did not work.
                If the Princeton LCD19D has an external power supply, use a multimeter to make sure it outputting stable power. I'm guessing the external power supply is outputs 12V DC.
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                Comment


                  #9
                  Re: Samsung SynchMaster 214T, Princeton LCD19D and VL1919

                  Originally posted by weflyuniv View Post
                  I respect your recommendation PlainBill to replace all the caps. Although I had no reason whatsoever to doubt the wisdom of replacing all the caps I still like to pinch pennies and I don't mind investing some extra time in my two stage repair.
                  Having to strip ONE down to get it on the solder table again will cost you more in time-$ than the added caps needed for 20-30 screens in parts-$.
                  -
                  Not to mention the bad/marginal caps you leave in may cause failures of more expensive and harder to find parts [including the main IC].
                  .
                  Last edited by PCBONEZ; 10-23-2010, 03:53 PM.
                  Mann-Made Global Warming.
                  - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.

                  -
                  Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.

                  - Dr Seuss
                  -
                  You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
                  -

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Re: Samsung SynchMaster 214T, Princeton LCD19D and VL1919

                    Originally posted by PCBONEZ View Post
                    Having to strip ONE down to get it on the solder table again will cost you more in time-$ than the added caps needed for 20-30 screens in parts-$.
                    -
                    Not to mention the bad/marginal caps you leave in may cause failures of more expensive and harder to find parts [including the main IC].
                    .
                    I feel it depends on what you intend to do with the repaired monitor.

                    If you are planning on using it, and the time spent tearing it down AGAIN would otherwise be spent playing Solitaire - by all means, do it on the cheap.

                    If you are planning on selling it, and don't care about your reputation, go ahead and save a few bucks.

                    If you don't want to put the last $5.00 in caps into it until you are sure it's repairable, you have a valid approach.

                    I will remember the 17" Gateway monitor for a long time. I didn't know enough to replace the 22uF, 50V cap. I spent hours troubleshooting that one until I Googled the SMPS controller - which led me here and to a post by Mike? describing the symptoms exactly. A blasted $.31 cap was the cause of the problem.

                    PlainBill
                    For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

                    Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Re: Samsung SynchMaster 214T, Princeton LCD19D and VL1919

                      Originally posted by retiredcaps View Post
                      If the Princeton LCD19D has an external power supply, use a multimeter to make sure it outputting stable power. I'm guessing the external power supply is outputs 12V DC.
                      It had not occurred to me to check that. I am forever forgetting the obvious and that was a terrific reminder and gave me hope for about ten minutes. The power supply is putting out 12.3V. Still it COULD have been the problem!

                      Ken

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Re: Samsung SynchMaster 214T, Princeton LCD19D and VL1919

                        You might want to test the voltage regulator (IC with 1501-50). Look for the datasheet on the Internet and compare the readings with the datasheet.

                        Does the green power LED light come? Can you see a display if you shine a flashlight on it?

                        edit: This might be the correct datasheet?

                        Last edited by retiredcaps; 10-24-2010, 02:22 PM.
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                        Comment


                          #13
                          Re: Samsung SynchMaster 214T, Princeton LCD19D and VL1919

                          What's the failure mode of the Princeton LCD, did you change all of the caps or just a couple - I couldn't work out from your conversation above.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Re: Samsung SynchMaster 214T, Princeton LCD19D and VL1919

                            My apologies for not responding. I have been unable to return to this monitor repair thread and hope shortly to set time aside to provide a description of the failure mode and answer other questions. Thanks for your patience.

                            Ken

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Re: Samsung SynchMaster 214T, Princeton LCD19D and VL1919

                              Hello all,

                              I have a Princeton Vl1919 that blinks for several minutes and finally turns on and all is well. It has the TDK version power supply and I have recapped the entire PS PCB and replaced the known cruddy LUXON caps on the logic/video PCB as well. Still acts flaky on turn on sometimes. Sometimes it fires up first time. I have repaired 2 others and after recap they are great! Voltages on the regulators are 5.02 an 11.85. All that's left without dragging out the scope are the other caps on the video PCB and the large 400 v cap on the PS. Voltage on the 100uf cap is 158. Any Ideas based on prior experience??

                              Comment


                                #16
                                Re: Samsung SynchMaster 214T, Princeton LCD19D and VL1919

                                Originally posted by ddriver1 View Post
                                Any Ideas based on prior experience??
                                1) Pictures of your board (using the manage attachments) like in post #1 always help us.

                                2) What brand and series did you use for replacement caps?
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                                We respectfully ask that you make some time and effort to read some of the guides available for basic troubleshooting. After you have read through them, then ask clarification questions or report your findings.

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                                Comment


                                  #17
                                  Re: Samsung SynchMaster 214T, Princeton LCD19D and VL1919

                                  Retiredcaps:

                                  I have borrowed a picture of the PS, don't remember where I got it, I've done alot of looking recently. I replaced all caps except the big one ,100uf 400v with Nichicon caps. The Video PCB caps were G-luxon 330uf 16v replaced with Nichicon PW series quantity (7). I don't have a photo of the Video PCB...should have snapped one when it was disassembled.

                                  As I said, right now it is working but gives me problems on turn on. I currently have 4 monitors...all Princeton VL1919 and all turn on correctly after re-caps except this one. Checked the voltages at the regulators and they are fine but did not scope them. Hooked up to my laptop and worked OK it seemed at the time. Once it's up it is beautiful and has no problems. Checked all caps removed with a Sencore cap analyzer and found most OK value uf but high leakage, many were obviously bulged.Thanks for any help.
                                  Attached Files

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