Energy s10.3 subwoofer issues

[tibimakai]

Re: Energy s10.3 subwoofer issues

Do not rush, you may need other components to order as well.

[soulraver]

Re: Energy s10.3 subwoofer issues

Okay waiting for further instructions.. i assumed the mosfet's were fried by another component as it seems strange both would go out at the same time

[budm]

Re: Energy s10.3 subwoofer issues

OK, so the power MOSFETs are shorted out, that can be due to shorted load or the Gate drive circuit shorted out, you need to trace out the GATE pin of the MOSFETs to see what are connected to the Gate pin, there should be transistors that drive the Gate circuits so they must be checked for damaged. This is the time when you have to draw out the circuit by tracing out the connections, otherwise you can keep blowing out your new parts.
BTW, both MOSFETs have the same P/N?

[soulraver]

Re: Energy s10.3 subwoofer issues

Well tracing back the gate driver I came to a transistor but it tests out okay. And yeah both MOSFET have the same p/n

[for7hyp3]

Re: Energy s10.3 subwoofer issues

Hey guys I am attempting my first fix of a powered amplifier, I was hoping to get some input on diagnosing the issue. The amp blew a fuse, and continues to blow fuses anytime i put one in. I unplugged the PT output wires, put a fresh fuse in.. what type of testing should i do? Output voltage from the PT is 30v. The sub has a Off / Auto / On switch, even when in the off position the fuse blows, visually everything on the board looks good, no leaking caps, burnt resistors, etc. I am somewhat new to all this so i apologize for that

I have a problem similar to you. I recently bought a Energy S10.3 Subwoofer at a garage sale for $1 (no joke) and shortly figured out why is was $1. Like yours the fuse would continue to blow even with the power board completely disconnected from the other boards. After trying replacing the fuse and trying again the second time the varistor after the rectifier in the circuit blew. It didn't stay on long enough to see if other components were overheating. My best guess at this time is that the rectifier is shorted internally, I have yet to replace the suspected components and try again, and since I can't find any replacement boards I guess I have no options but to try and fix this one.