Megaworks 210D Integrated Sub amplifier repair

[Wilzwerx]

Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair

the 104 capacitor and resistor R501 are part of the incoming mains supply to the power board and then subsiquent distribution to the power capacitors (that are swollen - now removed from board ready) ..Perhaps a little history.. the amp/sub are(were) connected to my pc, which regularly "goes to sleep" the unit goes to standby with no input signal ...was ok at first but then as time went on ,when the pc went to sleep the unit would go to standby with a "pop" which progressively got louder as time went on ...... then one day when I came home from work (I had forgotten to switch pc off) I had the hum problem through the speakers...So I then took it apart for an inspection!!

[fzabkar]

Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair

I would trace the circuit around the resistor and the 104 capacitor. Then we could see exactly what these components do.

[Wilzwerx]

Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair

Enough of my waffle !! Sorry chaps ! I'll just get down to it and replace them caps first and report back like I said ....hopefully with good news ..but thanks for the advice/support guys ....good site ...good info....

[Wilzwerx]

Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair

Reading through all this again ....FZABKAR..... Just to clarify did you mean test the 104 cap or the power caps for short circuit ?? I am limited in my testing capabilities and am seemingly like a dummy in my electronic fault finding !!

[Wilzwerx]

Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair

Does it matter if the ESR is different on a replacement capacitor? Farnell dont seem to stock an exact match other than US stock so shipping costs are high!! .....referring to e bay link on caps - that part no... on the yellow label is an RS part no and checks out through RS as the correct part ....still a goer or not ??

[Wilzwerx]

Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair

As I'm on the "case" and in the kitchen.... thought i would test resistance on the "crispy"resistor ..... it still has a value !! (wow) thought it was u/s !! 110k from lead to lead so i guess its ok but just scarred...does this value make sense for a snubber resistor?? (apologies I am a novice at this kind of thing!!) it was originally brown with stripes so what type of resistor would i need to replace this also??

[Wilzwerx]

Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair

The panasonics are discontinued so i thought that one of these component clearance houses(uk address) was going to be ok ?? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Panasonic-...WEBnQ#viTabs_0 but if you dont think so i will scour farnell's for a similair version.... but will take me some time probably ..... Thanks for the heads up STJ!!

[stj]

Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair

not ebay,
in the u.k. use farnell
postage is free and the caps arent fakes!

[Wilzwerx]

Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair

Thanks for the speedy reply FZABKAR !! I am good at fixing things but am no way an electronics guru !! ..... So I.m back to swapping out the power caps then ? I will do this and report back ...was just worried that a crispy component was not good !! snubber = voltage spike supression circuit ? .... Well I'll order the caps off e bay and give it a go ... ... just to check i am going to order panasonic ecos2da221ba ....Thanks again !!

[fzabkar]

Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair

That resistor and the nearby 104 (0.1uF) capacitor probably constitute a snubber. If so, then the unit should be able to function without it.

Check the capacitor for a short circuit.

[Wilzwerx]

Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair

If you look at the images ljbrandt posted the resistor i'm interested in is on image 11 at the top left corner R501 by the red coil !!

[Wilzwerx]

Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair

Hi all !! I know this is an old thread but am requiring some assistance I have a polycom cambridge soundworks Bash c1ply240 and have experienced the hum issue my power caps are swollen so assume they need replacing but my main issue is ...A resistor has blown at R501 and it has obliterated the markings on the body... Do you think I'm flogging a dead horse or is it worth a couple of quid and time to try and repair...its an amazing little system as I have x4 mc150 speakers as well ..... have located a cap supply but am struggling with the vaue on this known blown resistor...can anyone help?? I've posted on this thread as the megaworks 210d seems to have the exact circuit board that mine has!!

[momaka]

Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair

I really have no electronic experience at all, and wondered if others had a similar issue and doing this cap replacement had fixed things?

Welcome, amtprod!

Judging by the replies/feedback in this thread, it is very likely that some new caps will fix your problem with this amp. I think it would be okay, even if you really don't have any electronic experience, as long as you can follow instructions and do your homework on reading how to do things. If you look at ljbrandt's post #16, he says he has/had no experience either and got it working.
So re-read the thread thoroughly, and if you have any questions, ask.

[amtprod]

Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair

Hey all,

I found this thread through AVS when I was searching for ways to fix my own CSW Megaworks 210D system. I had it in storage for a couple years, and when I set it up the other day it was making some really bad intermittent sounds: pops, intermittently plays music, drops out, erratic sound playback. It does it independent of touching inputs or speaker cables, and also regardless of whether the volume knob is being used or even plugged in. It never settles on one volume, and is always breaking and plays back sound broken and intermittent.

I really have no electronic experience at all, and wondered if others had a similar issue and doing this cap replacement had fixed things? Did or does anyone know where I can get a copy of a schematic to help have this repaired?

Thank you for your time. Really glad I came across this!! Great pics OP...very helpful!!!

[willzone1]

Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair

Thanks fmichael for stirring the pot here, forgot to post the outcome of my 210D. Unfortunately, although my unit had the same symptoms as above, the issue with my unit was with some corrosion of the circuit board. The vibration-damping glue the manufacturer used to hold one of the caps onto the board ate through a few layers of board and tracing. The resulting corroded pit seemed pretty irrecoverable, so it rests in peace in my basement. Satellites are still good though, so I've got that going for me, which is nice...

[fmichael]

Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair

Hello All
I wanted to register and post here because I googled this exact problem with my 210D and found this thread. I repaired the subwoofer as described above and was successful in repairing this unit. I have a few of these units and have over the years returned them back to CSW for the 75.00 repair with shipping each time. After recent contact with CSW, they are no longer servicing this unit, or selling new ones for that matter.
The 2 caps online were 20.00 delivered(bought 4) and basic soldering did the trick.

I would gladly donate to this forum monetarily as I am sure it cost something to maintain a bulletin board and keep it up and running. I do not see anywhere a donation can be made.

Perhaps this next issue should be a new thread, but I wanted to throw it out there if anyone else might have had this other issue with the 210D. I have had to also send other units back to CSW because of blown fuses. I know this unit says on for long periods of time and will sleep during times when there is no signal to the amp. When I have replaced the fuse in the past, it would blow as soon as the power was turned back on. It was a 75.00 repair at CSW, the same as the hum issue. I wondered if anyone had any ideas, or fixes in mind for something like this.

Again. I very much appreciated everyones help. Saved alot of time and money.

[willzone1]

Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair

I just tried this fix, and it didn't work for me
Thanks to everyone here for their ideas, you gave my MegaWorks hope!
(P.S. As a professional electrical engineer, I'm certain that this wasn't a "user error" on the fix, and that something else is broken in my amp...)

[scoutii304]

Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair

I just did the same repair and it worked like a charm. Under $15 and my Megaworks are back in business! I know this is a year-old thread, but I want to thank jlbrandt for posting, and also seanc and all the rest for the how-to. Thanks!

[ljbrandt]

Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair

SUCCESS! Sounds just as good as the day it was new! Actually, I forgot just how good this 2.1 system really sounds :-) All from only replacing the two power filters caps - funny that I didn't even know what they were called.

I'm not sure the purpose of the 63v 470uF cap is, but I'll just let it ride for now since everything seems to be working. One thing I did find alarming though was that the brown "L" shaped metal piece just above the power filter caps seem to get VERY warm just from a short period of testing. I'm hoping this is normal for that part as I have no idea what it does.

Complete newbie, first time soldering, EVER much less messing with caps...but low and behold, a $2.99 soldering iron, $1.99 lead-free solder and a few youtube videos did the trick! Saved me at least $75 from having to send it in to Cambridge Soundworks.

Seanc, momaka & ipman - thank you so much for your help! If you guys ever happen to be in Montgomery, AL let me know and I'll buy you a beer!

Here are some pics of the result - notice the top left solder joint gave me some issues...the solder just didn't want to adhere to the base of the joint and I ended up having to redo it a few times (used my vacuum cleaner to suck off the old solder). Not pretty, but I hope it holds..only time will tell. Thanks again guys!
Solder joints on new caps (not super pretty)


Messing around with repairing a broken microphone cord


Cheap Harbor Freight soldering iron...tip already broken


The old caps

[seanc]

Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair

Yes it's adhesive, which you should find is nice and crispy and will break easily.
Don't bother replacing it.