Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair
Unfortunately, I have already ordered the 220uf 200v power filter caps. I did notice the 3rd cap, but didn't think to order it :-(. I may give the power filter cap replacements a try 1st and see if that works and then order the 63v 470uf later. One follow-up question though, I noticed a brownish substance between the large caps and the board...is this some type of adhesive to counter-act the vibration in the sub? If so, do you think this may cause difficulties in trying to remove the old caps...and would I need to use a similar adhesive paste when installing the new caps? Thanks in advance!
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Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair
If you haven't ordered the caps yet, get a 63v, 470uF cap as well. There's one like that on your board and its quality looks rather questionable (as do the other smaller caps as well, but those usually don't endure that much stress so they don't need to be replaced). The power supply in your amp is an SMPS, so for the 63v, 470uF cap, any of these caps would be a good replacement:
Panasonic - FC, FR, and FM
United Chemicon - LXY, LXZ, KY, and KZE
Nichicon - PM, PW, HE, and HD
Rubycon - YXG, ZLLeave a comment:
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Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair
Awesome...I'll put in the order and report back after the installation is complete!
Thank you for your help!Leave a comment:
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Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair
Despite what Newark says, the ECOS2DA221BA is snap-in. Look at the datasheet, also I've bought the TS-HA series before so I know they are.Leave a comment:
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Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair
Is it alright if the Panasonic is not a snap-in type?Leave a comment:
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Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair
Snap-in and choose the Panasonic if it will fit.Leave a comment:
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Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair
Thanks for the reply Seanc!
Saw some good videos on youtube and I think I'm ready. Just need to order some replacement caps.
two questions:
1. Do I need the 'snap-in' type or the radial type
2. Which of these three would be best? All meet the size and # requirements (taken of newark.com). Is the ESR, the manufacturer or capacity life the most important factor when choosing a replacement?
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/bro...3D422%2B201222
Thanks!Leave a comment:
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Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair
Have you any experience with soldering?
If not do some Youtube searches...
220uf is the capacitance, 200v is the voltage the cap can handle.
Width and height also need to be factored in when looking for replacements.
I would replace the pair.Leave a comment:
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Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair
Does 220 uF / 200 V mean anything? I've never taken a capacitor off of a PCB...may have to look up how to's on youtube.
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Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair
I see one of the big filtering caps bulging. Can't read the value in your images.
Remove it and measure capacity and ESR if you can.Leave a comment:
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Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair
I should also mention the buzz heard in the speakers is loudest when the speakers are first powered and then slowly subside a bit when the unit 'warms up'. Hope this helps too.Leave a comment:
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Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair
I know it's been awhile since I made this post, but I finally got around to taking the pictures of the power board inside the sub. Let me know what to do next, thanks!
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Re: Integrated Sub amplifier repair
The first thing we're going to ask you to do is open it up and take good clear pictures. Start with pictures of the power boards in the sub - unless you know they're somewhere else.
Attach them using the manage attachments options.Leave a comment:
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Megaworks 210D Integrated Sub amplifier repair
Greetings all!
I am an owner of a 8y/o Cambridge Soundworks computer speaker set (Megaworks 210D). Just recently, both satellite speakers and the sub have starting making an irritating buzzing sound. I have ruled out ground loop by disconnecting all inputs except the power cord and also tired various outlets in my house, yet the buzzing remains. Oddly though, sometimes the buzzing is very loud and at other time is barely noticeable.
Doing my due diligence, I did some research and found that the culprit may be bad capacitors and/or zeners. CSW wants $75 PLUS round-trip shipping to repair the amp. My question is, is there anyone who would be willing to walk me through a repair given pictures of the amp board? I am quite teachable and would be willing to post a movie on youtube for others' reference.
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Problem
This is an LG edge LED lit LCD Display. The LEDs are on the bottom edge of the display. There are 2 bars (left and right) Each bar has many LEDs and a 6 pin connector. Each pin drive several LEDs thus is the highest current flow / heat junction. The weak lead free solder gradually fails with thermal expansion/contraction cycling and increases resistance. PSU will compensate up to a point, then when the current is too high, PSU just shut down the backlight causing a dark display. I have even seen one which the connector just fell off as solder points became completely detached.... -
Good day ladies and gentleman!
I am currently trying to repair a Grundig Vision 9 37 9880 T USB LCD TV for a friend that has a weird audio problem. Basically everything works fine except for the heavily distorted sound when the Subwoofer module is connected and there is a buzzing sound coming from the PSU PCB.
This seems to be a rather rare TV so there is not much prior on topic help to be found however a service manual is available at the usual sources (Electro Tanya i.e.).
I think the PSU buzzing comes from one of the coils near the bridge rectifier but... -
I have here a Magnum IA.100 which belongs to my parents.
The unit powers on & when the relay kicks in, you get a pop from the speakers (this might sound weird but is usual behavior for this amp). However, you get nothing coming through it from any of the inputs & no pops and crackls from any of the controls.
Because of the sound from the speaker when the amp turns on I have assumed that the output section probably works but I could be wrong & I'm not sure how to test that side of things further.
What Ive done........01-01-2025, 01:26 PM -
Hi Folks
Need some advice on how to test a subwoofer amplifier if i have access to only a multimeter.
Problem
I have a Boston Acoustics active Subwoofer (soundware S). Its rated output is 200W. But the output i am getting is very low i can barely hear/feel it even if put the gain at max. I replaced all the capacitors in the Subwoofer amplifier but still no change.
Is there anyway to test this without getting an oscilloscope/Function generator to see if the fault is with amplifier, driver or the source??
Any advice would be appreciated... -
Hi, people.
I've got an amplifier assembly from Mackie CR4 parts. It's just an amplifier, there was no speaker housing, so I used my set of CR4s to test it.
Anyway, upon connecting everything and hooking the "new" amplifier to an audio source, the sound played clearly and strongly for the first ten seconds. I was happy it was working. Then the sound started to fade out during the playback until it was no more. After it had "dropped to zero", there were two very short intervals of sound playing at the normal volume, as if the amplifier was trying to...
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