What if you get two more powerful relays and put them on each side of the heating element (i.e. in series), so that they both switch on and switch off the element. I think that should help to reduce the spark, even though both relays will likely turn off at slightly different times due to small differences in the coils and whatnot. And if not, you still get more redundancy - that is, if one relay fails with stuck contacts, at least the other one should continue to power off the heating element (... until both get stuck contacts? ).
Of course, some big polypropylene caps should also help reduce the sparking too, I think.
A T92 is a good high-current relay. It makes heat due to the contact resistance, so the crimp-connector version sucks due to extra heating at the spade. I think it's good to 20-25A. max. before it runs too hot.
It's also DPST; so one contact is always getting the arcing as they are never perfectly matched mechanically. You would then need two snubbers, one for each contact.
Heating elements have a lot of inductance. I find even 10nF caps help tremendously. Maytag stove burners would get stuck on the contacts would get stuck and the cap fixed that, but leakage current now at the element.
I did a long-life 32A heater design that used both an SSR to switch on/off power and a mechanical relay to bypass the SSR.
SSR on, 50msec later, mechanical relay on.
Mechanical relay off, 50msec later, SSR off.
Since an SSR dissipates about 1W per amp, shorting out the SSR keeps it cool. The mechanical relay never switches load on/off, so it lasts a very long time. This was to meet a 100,000 cycle lifetime safety standard.
in the future the chinese will probably sell you a relay-shaped pcb with an smd fet & driver on it.
they already have that in the casing of a lot of car relays now.
I had a lot of trouble with the WiFi connection from my router inside of the house into a ( new ) metal garage I had to run a 150 ft cat6 patch cord so the WIFI connection would be strong enough for the WiFi connection on the garage door opener would work correctly ( my son has a work out area in the garage as well and he was having to put his phone near the door to be able to stream music ) ( so I was going to eventually put WiFi out there anyway )
This garage door opener WiFi is very touchy if you lose the power it does not remember the password for the router which is weird or...
OK. I got the rocker switch figured out thanks to the good advice on this forum.
Now I need to figure out the correct wire to go to the switch from the broiler element and from the oven element.
This is a Whirlpool RDE3340 electric range.
The common wire on the switch appears to have a high temperature insulating material. I am guessing that both the wire to the broiler and the wire to the oven elements also need relatively high temperature insulation. What do I need to look for? The broiler is rated at about 2400 watts.
Board as written in description was stuck at VGA LED. common Problem wit these type of bords.... tried all the "standard stuff" like resettin... reseatin.... found out the LED Controller MCU1 = IT8295FN-56A geting burning hot under the last PCI Slot.. now i desoldered it cause there were only 18 ohms at the caps arround.... another aorus x470 in working condition with similar part and nearly same layout had arround 280 ohms...
my question is: why doesnt the board start know without this chip.... worked myself through the boardview but i can´t understand...
There is a motherboard Gigabyte H610M S2H V2 (DDR5), I can't find boardview
Help to identify the element, marking on the element - C31PH. It stands next to the USB 3.0 and it looks like it is ESD Protect chip. We need a datasheet to this element. Maybe someone has already identified such an element. Help please.
Hi all,
I’m trying to recover a Lenovo Yoga Slim 7-14ARE05 with board DA0LS3MBAF0 Rev:F. I’ve run into an unusual issue where USB-C PD is stuck at 4.7–5V and the system won’t boot (keyboard lights flash briefly, then nothing).
🔥 The Problem Started After Suspected ESD/PD Fault
I experienced a power issue or ESD event through a USB-C charger
After that, the NX20P5090 power switch was visibly burned and was replaced
Now the PD controller always negotiates 5V @ 2A, even with known-good chargers
🧠 What I’ve Done So Far
Flashed...
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